Great job! Great colors (both in actual hues & in ratios), great backsplash, & GREAT flooring!! .. & I, too, love how you turned the former oven cubby into shelving (especially for the microwave, freeing up valuable countertop real estate!). Give me a few weeks to brainwash my husband so that you can come to Texas & help me w/ my kitchen, LOL!! ;-)

If you don't plan to use the dinette area for seating, you could move the ovens to that wall. I get the impression you are young, but as one ages a wall oven is more convenient. If you choose the range option, that whole space could be used for pantry ROTS, or a framed, reach-in pantry. The ROTS pantry would be as houssaon posted above. If you open the kitchen to the DR, the DW could move to the right of the sink. I continued the counter across the low window, with open space below--I see a pet food dispenser, so that could be kept in the open area. The space to the right of the ovens could be a combination of cabinet and open shelving, or all open shelving for display, since the far corner might be difficult to reach. Or, keep the KA mixer in the corner, where it would be out of the way but easy to pull out when needed. I switched the fridge to the side closer to the DR, with extra deep counters beside it, to match the full-depth fridge box. That would be a convenient area for preparing snacks, serving, and extra prep. I didn't draw it, but you could also make the counters on the sink wall extra deep, to close some of the floor space. BTW, the plan might be off by 6"--7 3/4' + 8 3/4' = 16 1/2'. GW archives--extra deep counters Images--counter across window One of the pics in the above link gave me another idea, which would be less permanent than a counter across the window: Maybe you could still have some open shelving on the blank wall:

If you put the pantry entrance where the deep cupboards are it would flow better...I find that if the kids have a zone that is pantry/fridge/microwave then they are not getting underfoot in the really active areas. Then you could put either a piece of furniture or cupboards on the wall where the pantry door is presently. The location of the wall ovens seems a really long way from the pantry and fridge and impinging on the breakfast area....and are not the prettiest thing to look at coming into the kitchen. But if not there, then where? If you moved the pantry door, you might have room next to it for wall ovens and a small landing space and then the pantry door...but then the ovens are opening in the main traffic pattern....with 5 kids traipsing through, what could possibly go wrong? I would forego island sink, unless you really have your heart set on it...it’s really close to the sink across the aisle, and I really like having an unencumbered prep space on the island. I would also swap DW and trash area on that sink so That you have room to manouver when the DW door is open. Is the butler’s pantry function that of a bar? To service both the family room and dining room?

I agree with others who pointed out your bath pictures show clean, neutral, and functional already. And that it's a great idea to live in the space a little while before investing in any changes. A coat of paint, a new faucet, and a new light will - seriously - work wonders. But you also asked some specific questions, so here goes. :-) 1. For software, personally I liked Homestyler for a while, but then they rebranded it as Planner 5D and started upcharging for just about everything. Then later, a different company started hosting a different Homestyler that I like a lot. But keep in mind, these are free (unless you opt to shell out for the upgraded tools), so be careful how much info you share. If you want to go high tech, Sketchup is a fantastic 3D drawing tool, with lots of plugins for furniture and fixtures... but the learning curve is STEEP. You're smart to invest in tools carefully... but you may not need anything carpentry-related for your baths just yet. Miter saws are great if you have a ton of crown to install, but I don't expect you'll be building your own cabs or doors, right? DH and I bought a hand-held circular saw 20 years ago, and it's still our main saw. There are ways to set up portable workspaces on sawhorses, and use a straightedge with clamps to get clean, straight cuts. But if you have real cutting to do and space for storage, a table saw is great. Don't overlook the value of a great cordless drill, high quality bits, good wrenches, and 2 measuring tapes in good condition. Hardware and lights... the internet is flooded. But there's a fun way to find new sources. Find something you like on Amazon or Lowes, then google that item and see what other stores pop up. They may be design centers, hardware stores, specialty shops, or other major retailers you just never knew of. Bathroom fans are frustrating to buy. The ones that work best look the worst. Go for specs, not looks, and make sure there are nicer things in your bathrooms to look at. 5a. I would not paint or resurface a bathroom counter. But if they're really that bad, you can buy inexpensive pre-formed counters at HD/Lowes for very cheap. You should look at Ikea too, but their sizes often don't work with preexisting cabinets. Another option (but probably isn't worth it) - small counters are easy to replace with a stone remnant from a stone yard. It will still cost something - more than HD/Lowes. But if the full bath redo is years away, this is a nice upgrade. 5b. From your pics, your floors look like they're in good shape and clean, but I couldn't see much of the floor... I will say - if the tile is original, removing it will be a nightmare. You will need a hammer drill, heavy wire cutters, strong backs, and a chiropractor. Tile setters in the 60s took their work very seriously - there is probably 2" of mortar under that tile, with some crazy chicken wire type stuff embedded in it. A hammer and chisel is not going to cut it. We pulled the tile out of our powder room a couple years ago - our house was built in 1989 and clearly, the tile setter was old-school. They didn't mess around. We put down 1000 feet of peel & stick wood look plank in our basement 5 years ago. I actually love it. It was cheap stuff from Lowes, and it looks like we paid much more. BUT. The concrete floor was very flat and smooth, and already sealed. We applied a primer, and that makes all the difference with adhesive floors. We do have a couple areas that have been exposed to water (washer leak and a Bilco door leak), but those were isolated events... I'm not sure P&S is a great idea in a bathroom. But it could be a reasonable solution for a short term replacement of the tile. Note - if you pull up the tile, and put down a skinny layer of P&S - you may have work to do to replace the toilet. The bolts may not fit properly, the wax seal may not seat the same. Questions you didn't ask, but I'll offer some thoughts anyway :-) If you're thinking to replace doors with Shaker style, there are some great companies who sell custom doors for reasonable prices. The kitchen forum is the place to look for the current favorites. And I know the beige fixtures are not so popular, but don't try painting them. The yellow I see in your pics will not work well with that dingy beige I'm imagining. But there are other nice colors that will complement the beige and make it tolerable - Maria Killam is a good source to explore colors and see if you can make that beige work in the short term. Congratulations on your first home! Have fun decorating!