Great idea to make the units breakdown for moving. A few things to consider regarding function: - Will the joints between the cabinets and desk tops bother you? I like laying out projects on smooth surfaces and designed my long desk top to minimize joints/maximize the smooth surface. - Do you need a shredder? If so, you could put one on a pullout in one of the cabinets. Concealed, but easy access. - Does 30" high work best for everyone using the desks? I am much shorter than my husband, so I lowered my desk. His is 31" high and my really long one is 27". Our desks are not adjoined, although one of my initial designs had both along one wall with a step up in the height. Overall, the design looks functional. I like the layout. Lisa

artemis_ma, I'd rather not walk from bathroom to closet through the bedroom (I get dressed after I shower). I definitely don't want to rely on my DH to remember to close the bedroom door behind him (because invariably he'll forget) so that I can go from bathroom to closet without putting on a show. I'd be in the same bind if the bedroom shades/drapes were opened while I was in the shower. (Why, hello, neighbor! lol) To each their own. =) Andrew Page, finally you tell us that yes, you need the 4th bedroom! This is information that should have been included in your original post. Off to delete the idea I was drawing up.... I'm assuming that, in addition to the stairway location, the center wall, front to back, that is one side of each module needs to stay as drawn on your plan. Is that true? If it isn't, then there is more flexibility for room lay-out, as damiarain's plan shows. That said, with all the changes that need to be made to make your plan more functional, why not consider other plans or other modular home manufacturers as katinparadise suggested to find one that meets your needs with little or no modifications. I would think that all the change orders required to modify your plan will increase the final cost. A frosted glass door for the upstairs laundry room would help (good idea) as One Devoted Dame suggested, but even so, I'd encourage you to find a way to add an additional natural light source for the upstairs hall. Our upstairs landing is open to the 2 story entry and the 6 x 6 window over the door but because the entry faces northwest, the upstairs landing and hallway aren't as brightly lit as I'd expected when we built, especially on gray days.

I'm going back and forth on adding in some small streaks of the green and bits of silver. Here's what I'm thinking as of now: 1) Base coat - Color match to the beige/light gray in the pillow that comes with set (see picture of forest green comforter I added above.) 2) Add a FEW streaks ("strie"- the vertical lines), of the green and light gray (or whatever the "beige/light gray" pillow color is). I would add maybe 1 streak of each every 7 - 8 inches. I probably wouldn't even be using a teaspoon of each color for the entire wall. I doubt it would even show in the pictures, but when one is in the room, they would see a very subtle lines of the green and light gray. And if I even change the comforter, I could just paint over the green and light gray streaks. 3) Add the metallic paint (something light and "pearly") as the final coat on the headboard wall. 4) Paint the rest of the walls in the base coat (the beige/ light gray color matched from the pillow.) I really like the "drama" of the forest green comforter against the light walls. I also love that large gold metallic vase in @Molly 's picture. Thinking of doing something like that in a pewter. Now just have to find a massive vase that doesn't cost $300+ dollars.

As mentioned above, measure space and I think you may want a settee for its back support vs a bench. Decide on an armless style or not, length, and the color and then start your search. If not shopping in person, be sure to read reviews around comfort and durability