@ Vinita Bali Actually, Vinita, the defective casting was probably new, just not very well cast. Casting, whether sand or mold casting, is not always a precise process. The flow of the molten brass may not be even, resulting in voids in the finished product that engineers call "holidays" (Why "holidays", I don't know. We call them "holes".). If the holes are big enough, the casting is scrapped and melted down to make a new casting. But, some companies patch small holes with a solder or braising material. Not the best solution, but it works most of the time. Not in your case, however. Looks like the solder patch was a "cold patch" that did not adhere well to the underlying brass. My point is that if Hudson Reed (actually Limitless Digital Group, Ltd.) says it was a new casting, it most likely was. When the company admitted the defect, but denied your claim, did they deny their obligation to 1. Replace the defective part, or 2. Repair the damage to your kitchen resulting from released water, or 3. Both? If they denied just 2, it's because of a clause in their warranty in which they disclaim all liability for damage to anything other than the product itself, or what lawyers call "consequential damage". This disclaimer is very common, and almost never works in court due to some basic procedural defects in how the warranty is delivered endemic to internet sales. But, companies use it to bluff you into thinking they do not have to pay for consequential damages, and most consumers are fooled by the bluff. Kudos to you for pushing on and making them pay in the end. Most people would have given up. I wish you would tell your story to our readers by adding a comment to the bottom of our review at http://starcraftcustombuilders.com/sources.faucets.Hudson.Reed.htm. I'm certain they would appreciate it. Thanks for the insight. For other readers wondering how to prevail on a warranty when companies deny perfectly legitimate warranty claims, read How to Win the Warranty Game.

Joe, as others have said, you have been furnished a "list of features", not a construction specification. Such lists may often be as misleading and confusing for what they omit as for what they claim to proscribe. The language of your construction contract will determine the extent to which your "features" list governs and is binding, including recourse (if any) for errors, omissions and disagreements. For examples of construction specifications, visit the Construction Specifications Institute (CSI). Here's the Wiki definition for "Specification--Technical Standard". A key element of a legitimate specification is its three parts for each and every area of Work--General, Products and Execution: Construction specifications in North America Specifications in North America form part of the contract documents that accompany and govern the construction of a building. The guiding master document is the latest edition of MasterFormat. It is a consensus document that is jointly sponsored by two professional organisations: Construction Specifications Canada and Construction Specifications Institute. While there is a tendency to believe that "Specs overrule Drawings" in the event of discrepancies between the text document and the drawings, the actual intent��"made explicit in the contract between the Owner and the Contractor��"is for the drawings and specifications to be complementary, together providing the information required for a complete facility. The Specifications fall into 50 Divisions, or broad categories of work results involved in construction. The Divisions are subdivided into Sections, each one addressing a narrow scope of the construction work. For instance, firestopping is addressed in Section 078400 - Firestopping. It forms part of Division 07, which is Thermal and Moisture Protection. Division 07 also addresses building envelope and fireproofing work. Each Section is subdivided into three distinct Parts: "General", "Products" and "Execution". The MasterFormat system can be successfully applied to residential, commercial, civil, and industrial construction. Specifications can be either "performance-based", whereby the specifier restricts the text to stating the performance that must be achieved by the completed work, or "prescriptive", whereby the specifier indicates specific products, vendors and even contractors that are acceptable for each workscope. Most construction specifications are a combination of performance-based and prescriptive types, naming acceptable manufacturers and products while also specifying certain standards and design criteria that must be met. While North American specifications are usually restricted to broad descriptions of the work, European ones can include actual work quantities, including such things as area of drywall to be built in square metres, like a bill of materials. This type of specification is a collaborative effort between a specwriter and a quantity surveyor. This approach is unusual in North America, where each bidder performs a quantity survey on the basis of both drawings and specifications. Although specifications are usually issued by the architect's office, specwriting itself is undertaken by the architect and the various engineers or by specialist specwriters. Specwriting is often a distinct professional trade, with professional certifications such as "Certified Construction Specifier" (CCS) through the professional organizations noted above. Specwriters are either employees of or sub-contractors to architects, engineers, or construction management companies. Specwriters frequently meet with manufacturers of building materials who seek to have their products specified on upcoming construction projects so that contractors can include their products in the estimates leading to their proposals. Good luck on your project.

For the shower, you would just then buy the valve trim and valve, either Moentrol or posi-temp - there are pros and cons that you can research here or on other plumbing forums. The cartridge that fits inside the valve comes with the valve trim. For the shower/tub, sometimes it is cheaper to buy the set even if you don't use the shower head. But you can buy the separate valve trim/valve, tub spout w/diverter and hand shower/bar. You can mix the different Moen styles or even buy different brands. The valve trim must match the brand and valve type. You will need to buy the tub drain assembly, cover and stopper. These will need to be matched up based on the type of stopper you choose. I needed a longer tub spout so I ended up combining a Kohler tub spout, Delta valve trim to fit over the pre-existing valve, and a Grohe handshower (off of ebay). It is not recommended to buy plumbing fixtures from the big box stores because they are specifically made to meet a lower price point. The outside will look the same but the inside may have inferior components. Buy from your local plumbing supply house or on the internet - you can search this forum for good websites. Always buy items that match the manufacturer's model number on its website. This post was edited by Anna_in_TX on Thu, Dec 5, 13 at 18:18

@sven_erte - you are thinking about replacing - there is another option - u could simply replace the handles - since u have identified the manufacturer u can review their online catalog and get that done. With regards to the spout - u might consider re-plating the spout to give it a newer look and replacing the aerator. this way u can still be assured that you are getting a new look but not taking on any risk by getting a new spout. There are some highly rated faucet plating companies which you could use.