Holy cow, Carol! I hope you'll share before & after pics! It's always fun to see the power of paint in action, and your project sounds like quite the transformation. I mixed paint for a renter yesterday who had similar taste, and though the landlord have given the ok, I still felt a little bad for them. I'm sorry to hear your little Ace went under! The company is doing well over all, but each store is independently owned, and the last couple years have been harder to compete in. I'm so happy to hear you're supporting another independently run store with your paint purchase. :) I'm painting my living room & kitchen BM Sail Cloth today, but Edgecomb Gray was a contender. I decided we didn't have enough natural light to keep it from being a little too dark in the living room in the evening (it changes a lot...gorgeous beige early in the day, but I'm home more in the evening, when it's more gray). Trim would have been the same white I'm using everywhere else, which is a custom blend, but pretty close to BM Simply White, I believe. I might still use Edgecomb Gray in our bedroom, which I wouldn't mind going a little dark. FYI, my store sells BM, too, and when we look up color formulas, some have an "also known as" button. Edgecomb Gray is also known as Baby Fawn and Alaskan Skies. What color will you be painting the cabinets? Here is a link that might be useful: Handy Cabinet Painting Guide by a GW Paint Forum Regular

Thank you both for chiming in! It seems OK in my brain, but the house isn't built yet, so it's hard (even with design software) to truly appreciate the space. We are trying to fit full size fridge, full size freezer, slide in range, dishwasher, microwave and trash pullout into the space, plus an accessible sink, so there isnt much space left for items in the lower cabs, so putting in as many uppers as possible seems the better option to me. We could possibly put in a tray ceiling, or some sort of soffit around the top, but that seems wasteful. I do love crown, Mags438 - do you have any pics of your kitchen? I'd love to see it. Thanks!

As Livia mentioned, having cabinets go all the way to the ceiling is not recommended. Ceiling heights are rarely the same throughout the room and cabinets to the ceiling will highlight these issues - if they can even fit in all places! Instead, use a minimum of 2-piece molding with one piece "filler" (flat panel - no detail) that can be cut to fit and a piece for the top that is the same all around. We used 3-piece: . . The middle piece (Stock-S) is the "filler". Our ceiling height varied by an inch or so throughout the Kitchen. To handle this: Three pieces: -- Crown - top piece -- Stock-S - filler piece in the middle -- SoffitA - bottom piece The bottom piece ("SoffitA") was installed on top of the cabinets. It's the same size all over. The top piece ("Crown") was installed on top of the filler piece ("Stock-S") and is the same size all over. The middle filler piece ("Stock-S") was installed b/w the Crown & SoffitA. However, the height of the piece varies. It was cut to fit b/w the Crown and SoffitA to account for the varied ceiling height. The same can be done with two pieces - the equivalent of the "Crown" and "Stock-S" pieces. Doing this makes it look like the Kitchen's ceiling height is the same all over and makes the cabinets look customized for your space.

Annette, if you have decided to use Ikea, you need to build your design within the Ikea planner so that you are working with their cabinet dimensions. Unfortunately, you are a half inch short on the W/D wall to use the tall cover panel to enclose it for that run. The fridge cab, cover panel, and corner cab is 30+.5+38=68.5. Your wall is 68". An alternative is to eliminate the cover panel or just run it down to the counter. You might be able to gain 1/2" if you do not install the bases on the window wall using the rail system. The rail protrudes 1/2". With pulling the corner cab out from the wall 6", you will either have to mount a 2x4 frame to the wall to mount the rail and cabs to or secure the cabs to the floor using this kit or something else you devise. The bases that you will install as uppers will not need the extra framing since you will be able to mount the rail to the wall. I have no knowledge of log cabinet wall construction but I'm assuming studs aren't involved? Will your contractor guy be doing the install? Here is the link to the above plan. The planner does not have the capability of moving the base cabs up the wall, so I configured it with wall cabs as placeholders and pulled them out 6" to allow for the 24" depth. Subtract them out from the item list and add three 12" base pullouts . I added a free-standing 12" base pullout in the plan with counter and legs removed so you can see the item numbers. Add three of those to the list. They come to $163 ea using Grimslov doors. This plan comes to around $1500 without counter and handles. Whenever I do changes to their standard configurations I create the plan, print the item list, then add my changes to the printed list. Bring that with to the store and the associate will be able look it over for anything missed and do your additions/deletions. Here is the link to the plan using two 15" pullouts instead. They are configured with the bottom drawer attached to the door and two additional inner drawers. If you don't have their current cabinet catalog, here is a link. I don't find a new one with their newest door style. I hope this makes sense! Let me know if you have questions.