Sorry I lost track of this discussion. My preference for fertilizer is plain alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow). No mixing, no fuss. Apply at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. MorpheusPA likes Milorganite and soybean meal. Those are very good, too. I like alfalfa because I can find it locally and it is less expensive in South Texas. You can mix them or not. The application rate for any mixed grains is still 20 pounds per 1,000. This watering schedule you're on is only for this year and only because you seeded in the spring. This is an attempt to nurse your new seeded grass through the heat of summer. Eventually, deep and infrequent watering will mean that you water a full inch of water, once every week or two depending on heat. Next summer if it gets into the 90s then you should water once a week. Otherwise every other week should be fine. Nutgrass hates this watering schedule, so it must be good. The way you measure one inch of water is to set out some cat food or tuna cans. Turn on the sprinkler and time how long it takes to fill the cans. That will be your target time for watering once the summer heat breaks (next month). When the heat breaks and you know your watering time, water for that time and set your calendar. Watch the grass to tell you when to water next. As soon as you see any part of it drying out (the grass, not the soil surface), water again immediately. Remember the days and reset your calendar. Eventually watering like this will stretch out the calendar and you'll be watering every other week or less. If you do this, you should not need to worry about weeds. Weed seed needs much more water than this to germinate. If you are not germinating weed seeds, then you won't get new weeds. As for current weeds, the broad leaf weeds can be killed with something like Weed-b-gone spray. Spot spray individual weeds if you only have a few. For weeds over a broad area I would still use weed b gone spray. For grassy weeds you'll have to use something else. Someone else can help you with the various chemicals for grasses. After you get rid of current weeds, then you're relying on grass density and infrequent watering to keep the weeds out. With Kentucky bluegrass in full sun, grass density will not be a problem. With anything else in the shade, you will have to overseed in the fall to keep it dense. Good news is most weeds like full sun, too, so the shade helps. Watch the sloped area carefully for runoff. An inch of water can take hours and hours to apply with an oscillator sprinkler. That is actually a good thing because it allows the water to seep in slowly.

Ajones for what it is worth HALTS is a registered trademark name of Scotts Pendimethalin. Keep in mind Pendimethalin is sold by many other manufactures and not exclusive to Scotts. I didnÂt get the impression the OP was asking about pre-emergence, rather post-emergence products for after the fact. To answer your question pre-emergence is all about application timing whether it is in the fall or spring. The trick in my opinion is to remove the timing element as much to the extent as possible by selecting a product with the longest effective life. Again IMO Pendimethalin is a short lived product and the window of opportunity is very small. I am a fan of a product called AMAZE made by Green Lite. It last up to 6-months and as long as you do not get it down too late pretty much removes the timing element out of the equation for either spring or fall applications. Another product I think that is very good is as you mentioned is Dimension. It last up to 4-months, but is much more widely available to the general public from many manufactures. My Lesco rep turned me on to a few hundred pounds last spring for trial and my Son is very pleased with the results in the Landscaping business. Here is a tip: Put down two applications spaced 6-weeks apart for the most effective control, especially the spring applications if you live more toward the southern parts of the country where the growing season is quite long and extended. People here in Texas that only put down one application say in February, still get clobbered in June and July with CG right up to Halloween before it really cools off.

@gle2011: I think shallow is relative. Some grasses have roots 2 and 3 ft deep. If you mow your KBG at 4" the roots will be about 4". If you mow it at 2" your roots will be about 2". I think the idea is to maximize the root depth by mowing high and encouraging the roots to reach down where the water is, not curl up and form a thatch mat while looking for shallow water. I think your site is vague about how dry the surface might become before needing more water. A lot of us have looked around and see our neighbors watering every day, doing everything wrong, yet having none of that brown straw mixed in with the green blades. If the search feature of this forum weren't so pathetic, I might be able to find my post on this subject. If I recall correctly, morpheus said that you might have to give up a little green in the summer heat but you gain resistance to many other problems. Personally, I have yet to see one of these neighbors' lawns crash and burn due to poor watering. On the other hand, I lost a few patches to fungus while doing everything "right"! I'm going to water an inch once a week whether it needs it or not next season to observe any difference.

He's afraid if he says, Dallas, we'll all come over for 4th of July. The reason we needed that info is that northern grasses are much different from southern grasses. You're in the southern area where it gets too hot and dry in the summer for the northern grasses to grow. The zones only pertains to winter low temps, so they are mostly unhelpful for much of anything once you have selected your plants. You have two choices for a lawn. Well, you have more, but 99.999999% of all the lawns in North Texas metro area are either bermuda or St Augustine. The bermuda people are most happy with is TIF 419. You can find it as sod anywhere you go. Cost is probably not $50 per pallet anymore, but it should not be much higher. The demand might be higher this year because it got cold enough to kill some of the lawns. The cost is low because builders have adopted it as their standard lawn for new construction. Because of that there are LOTS of suppliers and the cost is low. Bermuda must have 6 hours of direct sunlight every day or it will thin out and become very weedy. It does not grow well under low, dense trees, behind walls or fences, or next to shrubs. St Augustine costs about $100 to $120 per pallet. Why so much? Supply and demand. Builders aren't buying it. A pallet covers an area about 25x20 feet or 500 square feet. St Augustine will grow in 0 hours of direct sunlight as long as it gets some filtered light during the day. It will be much more dense in direct sun, but it will still resist most weeds even in the shade. If you are patient these grasses will spread to fill. That means you can buy less and let these grasses spread. You'll have to keep after it with weed killers, but it will happen. Once it is established St Augustine spreads about 15 feet per year. I don't know how fast bermuda moves, but I would guess it is about the same if not faster. I bought a house in the summer of 2014 where the lawn had been abandoned by the owner. There was some St Aug growing in the shade up against the north side of the house, some along the back patio, and some against a patio addition. I estimate there was 30 square feet total of grass. Now there is roughly 1,000 square feet total in all those places, and all I've done is to let it expand. If you want to talk about the the options for planting to make it spread, let us know.