I would avoid wide planks in kitchen, stick with 2 1/4" strips. Dishwashers give out a lot of steam that cause bowing in the floor boards. And if, you have a toe kick heater, you will get excessive gapping during winter season.

New dishwashers do not spew steam. Toe kicks, with heat run aren't the issue, and there is always going to be some movement of wood, with changes in humidity.

That said? Plenty of engineered hardwoods exist in 7" boards, are routinely run everywhere in a home and yes, right into the kitchen. Either means weighing what you want in looks, and what you are willing to pay for the look, armed with information.

A 3" to 5" board ,select oak/either color sanded/stained on site, will outlive all of us, barring flood or fire.

I’m not set on the look of the engineered hardwood above. It was just one that caught my eye before i saw that it was engineered. I’m just learning so any guidance is appreciated. The two companies that look the most attractive in my early searching are Carlisle hardwoods and Vermont hardwoods. But i suspect they’ll be out of my budget, and i don’t know where to look for any compromises. I could be ok with a 5” plank, but would prefer wider. I actually do also love the natural maple look. I want a durable finish, and if the finish warms up to wood at all, that would suit me.

I'm not certain why you are making agony of the floor.

If you want a 7" plank, go locally shopping for an engineered hardwood product. Bring home samples. Buy the best you can afford, and don't expect insurance to cover the entire amount. This is not an online selection, if you are wise. Go to a dedicated flooring store, and stay out of the big box.

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What is engineered hardwood flooring? Engineered flooring refers to floor planks with a layered construction, often featuring a higher-end hardwood over a foundation of a more plentiful timber or plywood. It’s a common misconception that engineered flooring is a low budget product, made to get by with less hardwood. In some cases this can be true, however, with a smarter design and higher quality construction, engineered hardwood can be an extremely strategic choice. It’s a great hardwood option especially for faster installations and spaces with fluctuating environments.

Engineered flooring has the following characteristics:

• A layered construction
• More dimensionally stable planks (moisture tolerant)
• Enables a faster, easier installation
• Frequently more eco-friendly than solid traditional hardwood

All solid hardwood flooring is hygroscopic and responds to changes in the home environment — expanding and contracting a bit when the temperature and humidity fluctuates. However, an engineered hardwood floor’s stratified or cross-layered construction makes it much more dimensionally stable. The flooring is therefore more resistant to environmental change and a safer choice when installing in more extreme climates or in rooms with more moisture like bathrooms and basements."

New dishwashers properly installed with a hot water line will spew steam when you open the door after a cycle. That steam comes in contact with the floor.

Toe kick heaters will blow hot air directly onto floor boards in front of it, causing abnormal gapping.

I'm just giving you a heads up on what to expect in kitchens. If, you don't have a toe kick heater or dishwasher, you have nothing to worry about.

I have had engineered white oak wide plank (factory finish) throughout my house for almost 6 years. It’s in the kitchen and it’s in the powder room. No issues anywhere. I think it’s gorgeous and would install it again. My kids and husband are not careful with the floor - it gets splashed on a regular basis and even next to the dishwasher and sink it looks very good and not at all worn. My elderly dogs have frequent accidents. My powder room toilet once exploded like a volcano. Not a problem for this floor. Maple is beautiful, but it is difficult to finish (I speak from experience). If you really want it, I’d go with a factory finish. Even then it may yellow with UV exposure.

@susie, would to mind sharing the brand you went with?

I have used sand on site hardwood in primary baths, in kitchens with brand new everything. In powder rooms, in mud rooms with exits to garden and messy, salty floors for seven months of the year.

Same applies to engineered h.w. flooring

If you want to listen to "what if I open the dishwasher and some steam comes out ?! "

What if it's twenty below and my heat is jacked up to 72 darn degrees conversations?! You will be installing tile. Just saying. .........

IMO prefinished maple and not 7" planks. I agree maple left natural is a much better choice . I think in your space it might also be a better color to work with the dark wood. BTW I hve never had steam come out on the floor when I open my DW

Hi Ellen. I wish I knew what the brand was. I don’t remember now and our contractor was super disorganized- didn’t leave us any extra and lost many of the invoices. I could only find the tile invoices. It is 3/4” thick and 7 1/2” wide plank that came in random lengths. As Jan suggested, going to reputable local flooring stores is your best bet. They can help educate you on the differences and may have information on warranty issues for different brands. The salesperson I worked with was good about asking the manufacturer questions on my behalf and steering me away from brands she thought were overpriced or not high enough quality. Don’t be afraid of engineered wood floors - they can be very durable and look great.

I’m not set on the look of the engineered hardwood above. It was just one that caught my eye before i saw that it was engineered. I’m just learning so any guidance is appreciated. The two companies that look the most attractive in my early searching are Carlisle hardwoods and Vermont hardwoods. But i suspect they’ll be out of my budget, and i don’t know where to look for any compromises. I could be ok with a 5” plank, but would prefer wider. I actually do also love the natural maple look. I want a durable finish, and if the finish warms up to wood at all, that would suit me.

Jan Moyer, Why do you recommend sand on site as opposed to factory finished floors? I assumed that the pre-finished would have a more durable finish, having been applied in a factory. I see in many older homes that the finish is in terrible shape, whereas homes with factory finished floors look very good after many years. They might have some indentations, but the finish itself is pretty much still there. Whereas in the older homes with sand on site floors, the finish is worn down to bare wood in some spots.

All floors, sand on site or pre finished need the same care.

You can't compare a very old home with anything, nor do you know the housekeeping habits of another homeowner who may have been in that home for decades.

Both types will provide a lot of longevity. Depending YOU.

You can sand into near infinity in years on a 3/4 solid wood sand on site finished floor. It will last a 100 years and it will need re finishing at some late date! You get maximum two refinish shots on engineered products.

Dirt ( abrasive ), standing water....., failure to sweep or vacuum regularly will kill EITHER floor before its refinish time.

If you need to beat a floor in living habits? You need tile - not wood.