v1rtu0s1ty, I don't have a second meter so I can't compare that cost for you, but that sounds reasonable as far as plumbing work goes. I would suggest that if you are having someone install a new meter for you that you go the extra step and have them plumb a direct connection you can use for your irrigation instead of(or in addition to) a hose bib. If you look a few posts back you'll see me discuss the benefits of increased flow from a direct connection as opposed to running off a restrictive hose bib. Look inside one of the faucets on your house and you'll see how tiny that opening is. You may be cutting your GPM potential in half, limiting your entire system's design. While you're at it have them install a backflow preveter for you. These can be bought at Lowe's for as little as $40. That will keep fertilizer/pesticides, etc. from being siphoned back into your home's water supply. Yuck! I have some valves installed at the spot where my water connection is made, then a long length of pipe runs around the back of the house to another set of valves. So all valves should run off the same water connection/backflow preventer. That looks like the right pipe. I'd recommend not going below 3/4", and 1" if you can afford the cost of the pipe, connectors, etc. It also comes in different pressure ratings. I think 100psi and 160psi. The 100 psi is easier to bend and insert fitting into, but isn' appropriate for use where the pipe is going to be under constant pressure. Use the 160 psi stuff for those situations. Example, the pipe that runs around to the back of my house is constantly under pressure so I used the higher PSi stuff. Design the system after the second meter is installed. You need to test for GPM and also find the static pressure. Once you know those things you can start to figure plcaement of your heads. Different heads will throw water different distances depending on what your pressure is. The heads should have a little chart right on them that tells you how many feet of throw you'll get at various pressures. You'll need to take into account pressure losses from your pipe runs and connectors, backflow preventer to figure what the actual pressure a the head will be. Go forth and make rain! check out www.irrigationtutorials.com by Jess Stryker for lots of info.

When I purchased my home, (built in 1991), I quickly discovered that when the sprinklers were used they would suck all the water out of my pipes and I would get air through every faucet. I installed a brass check valve in the main line near the sprinkler pump. Now I never lose house water, but I also have NO pressure when they are on, so I must water at 4AM. I will not go the expense of a tank to maintain pressure.

It has ten heads on it, as does the other line in that part of the yard -- kind of the far end of how many you want on one line, but I've put low flow heads on them to help. The other line with ten heads pops and this one doesn't. However, I may have just located the problem. I got to thinking that the one consistent issue has been the blow by on the last head on the line. I propped it in the up/open position and tried turning on the water & it popped multiple times with no problem. So, thinking the problem may be the blow by caused by the leak on that head, I replaced the head with a new body I had. After replacing it, the line pops and I was even able to open up the ones I had closed and it still pops. Time will tell . . .

I guess one last question,is there a particular arrangement of pump,accumulator,pressure switch,regulator,solenoid, and pressure gauge that works best or is there really only one way to hook them up?I will get the most help from a clear diagram.sorry its just how I process info the best.diagrams are my best tool.I guess I'm hung up on how the ro boost pump gets fed before pumping up the acumilater. I assume a rez tank is on the input side.also I'm wondering if a single solenoid is best or to have one on each nozzle?surely a single solenoid is cheaper and I'm all for that lol,but if I decide to expand this to a full greenhouse to grow my food for the year on my homestead,I'm going to have a lot of nozzles and I fear pressure loss is eminent. If I'm asking to many things I apologise but I hate messing up on a project that costs this much.and I can't find much info on this.also if I put a mesh filter before each nozzle how much will this reduce cloging?its overkill I'm sure but I'm not opposed to overkill lol.and has anyone grown potatoes like this?, I want to try but I'm trying to figure out how to support the roots and potatoes as this will be a major problem.