You've most likely painted by now. But if you haven't, just try out your Blonde paint in there, since you probably still have a partial can sitting around. Doesn't cost anything but a little time to try it. I kinda think you'll need something a bit different to go with the light grey. I wanted desperately to go with Restoration Hardware Cappuccino or Flax in my bath. But even though anything with gold tones clashed with my beige/taupe tile, the Cappuccino was too off and the Flax too dark. Take a look at their website to see if one of those types of colors would work for you. I would do a white terry shower curtain with a greyed brown wall color, and towels in the flax or mocha tones in there. Red

I have an update and would love to get some feedback before I order the final accessories. (Demo begins one week from today!) I got a quote for replacing the vanity with white cabinetry complete with a sitting area, plus hardwiring of sconces. The costs all added up to too much for me, so I'm sticking with my vanity and overhead lighting location. I feel great about my choices for tile, bath tub, paint, and fixtures. My worry is that all the little accessory details won't quite work together, diminishing the beauty of the bathroom as a whole. I need to buy the accessories soon; here's what I have in mind. With overhead lighting instead of sconces, I prefer one large mirror. The mirror is by Pottery Barn, a wooden frame with gold gilt, 72" x 36". Perfect size for the space, very very very hard to find. This is technically a floor-length mirror, so I hope it can be mounted horizontally! PB customer service was useless when asked. The lights are also PB, polished nickel. For practical reasons, I ruled out any overhead lights that take type B bulbs (too dim) and have fabric shades (too hard to clean). As a big plus, these are on sale for $170 each. Do they go with the mirror and the rest of the room? Chandelier is PB, 18" diameter, antique brass, UL-listed. This will be over the tub on a dimmer. It was hard to find a chandy that's not too big, ornate, and/or expensive. Knobs and pulls are glass and polished nickel from Restoration Hardware. Towel ring, TP roll, and hook are Ballard Design in polished nickel. Fabric for the roman shade is gray on cream linen. Shower bench is Signature Hardware in teak. I hope this will help tie in the wood of the vanity with the other side of the room. Towel warmer is polished stainless steel (no nickel option) from Signature Hardware. If anything doesn't quite mesh or looks wrong, I would love to hear, as well as any suggestions for alternatives!

Glaze has no place to hang up on a slab door. Most manufacturers won’t do slab or shaker doors with glazing for that reason. Glaze is supposed to hang up in the details, and you need a door with some of those details to make it show. A floating vanity that’s mounted at only 6” off the floor is doable, but it’s more difficult to clean under than one mounted the more traditional 15” off the floor. The traditional height of floating vanities is 18”H and 21” H. Have you lived with a vessel sink before? They are gorgeous! But they have more water on the counter and more water running off of the counter than an undermount sink. They’re more work to clean and maintain than an undermount. I just want to make sure you have considered all of that extra work before the decision finalization. :-)

SJ McCarthy, I do have photos of the cracking and rising floor boards. And of the spotty finish, streaks, and drips. The boards have sat untouched and unfinished in our AC home for the last nine months, and within days of the oil and water applications the cracking and rising occurred. It’s been less than ten days since the floor has been finished. The guy who did the work was the owner of a highly rated flooring refinishing company in my area. We agreed to use a water-based finish which is on my contract as Poloplaz 1k water-based floor finish with a matte sheen. When he arrive he talked me into using an oil-based product instead, stating that it would keep the natural color as it is, but also preserve the wood. I apologize for repeating myself here -- I was so fearful of the oil yellowing the white oak which I stated many times to him, but he assured me if it did yellow it wouldn’t be for fifteen to twenty years. He said he would be using a clear, natural, expensive oil-based polyurethane finish that was newly opened. I'm not sure of the brand but I do have a photo of the yellow oil drip down the side of one of the white panels around the stairs. The next day after the oil application he added the matte flat water-based finish and I absolutely know what product he used because after the second coat was applied I followed him out to his truck voicing my concerns about the color/finish of the floor and he showed me the container… Bona Traffic HD extra matte. That’s when he blamed the product for the streaky look of the finish. He said he doesn’t like using this Bona product for quality reasons but because I insisted on a matte finish he didn’t have a choice. He said he could use a different product but it would leave a shine and not have the matte look I wanted. Thankfully the guy did not apply the 'natural poly' over the factory finished Shaw floors. My contract with him states that he would apply it over the entire dining area, and I was charged for it, but at the last minute the decision to not do it was made. The guy is not affiliated with my general contractor because I wanted to hire a flooring ‘professional’ who truly understood hardwood floor finishes. I was incredibly anxious and very select about what I wanted in the finish and it took me a while to find and then trust someone. Unfortunately I paid him in full. Contractors, here at least, are allowed to have a lien against your home if you withhold payment and because I'm not familiar with what that truly means legally for me, as the homeowner, I paid. Thank you for your information regarding an inspector from NWFA -- it's a great idea and I will most certainly make a few phone calls. Recent research has informed me that an oil-based polyurethane needs to cure for at least two weeks to 60 days before adding a water-based finish, do you know if that statement is true? And if so then the pro not waiting for the curing time before applying the water-based finish likely and knowingly voided the warranty on the Bona product -- he's been in business a long time so he would know. Also, is a natural polyurethane the same as an oil-based polyurethane? I'm just making sure I understand everything before speaking with an inspector. Thank you so very much for your advice and time, SJ McCarthy, I really appreciate all of your help.