White oak stair caps stained to match floor turned yellow.
smileygirl71
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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smileygirl71
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Can one stain 'New' Red Oak to match 'Old' Red Oak?
Comments (16)"Can one stain 'New' Red Oak to match 'Old' Red Oak?" This is tuff to do. When we do a repair in an old Vancouver Home I often use some Shellac first and then top coat with Polyurethane. The shellac gives me the aged look or yellowing and the two seam to work well together. Some times we tint the top coat a little. Judgement calls since sunlight and time will yellow the top coat so making it look right now might make it look wrong in a year........See Morematching stain on stair with rest of flooring
Comments (25)@ tqtqtbw - Good question. I have no idea if it will "go" with our interior design "choices". We have no decorative style per se unless utilitarian, hand-me-down furnishings and function-over-aesthetics is considered style. As a couple, we're busier than most - moreso now with 3 little ones. We did buy 2 paintings at an art festival once, but have never given time to interior design. I don't think I'm hopeless, but I am somewhat clueless. Have pity on me as I stumble through this forum! Have never considered purchasing a new handrail. That seems like another can of worms to open! Where should I look? Budget is the primary consideration at the moment, since I'm trying to replace flooring in our living room (and probably kitchen), and take out part of a wall in the kitchen in the very near future....See Morewhite oak floor stains
Comments (14)Gray is one of the toughest colours to get right. It is SUPER EASY to get it wrong. The inspiration photo you showed of the super light, slightly white floor, is MUCH easier when using Bona Nordic Seal. Your wood is already a close match...the Nordic Seal adds a snick more 'white' to the floor to offer that Scandinavian look. Guys who work mainly with Minwax have a hard time switching to Bona. And the FINISH is what matters for gray. A cheap oil based finish will turn ORANGE. A cheap oil modified will turn sunshine yellow. And gray is anything but it is NOT orange and it is NOT yellow. Find out the FINISH brand FIRST...and work backwards to the colour you want. Worse comes to worse you can always finish your floor in a high-end water based polyurethane (use a clear sealant to stop the tannin pull that white oak is famous for) to achieve a floor that is the natural 'raw' look that you have right now. Your wood is only a heart beat away from the colour in your inspiration photo. Loba 2K Supra AT (using WS EasyPrime) could offer a magnificent 'raw wood' finish without adding stain. The Bona Nordic Seal + HD Traffic will offer a slightly whiter version of your floor + SUPER TOUGH finish. But these high-end options have a slightly higher price tag and the systems the refinishers need to LEARN make this difficult for some homeowners to take and for many refinishers to offer. Lets start with the name of the FINISH the pro is using on your floor....See MoreNatural white oak flooring stained yellow/orange - can it be 'fixed'?
Comments (20)SJ McCarthy, I do have photos of the cracking and rising floor boards. And of the spotty finish, streaks, and drips. The boards have sat untouched and unfinished in our AC home for the last nine months, and within days of the oil and water applications the cracking and rising occurred. It’s been less than ten days since the floor has been finished. The guy who did the work was the owner of a highly rated flooring refinishing company in my area. We agreed to use a water-based finish which is on my contract as Poloplaz 1k water-based floor finish with a matte sheen. When he arrive he talked me into using an oil-based product instead, stating that it would keep the natural color as it is, but also preserve the wood. I apologize for repeating myself here -- I was so fearful of the oil yellowing the white oak which I stated many times to him, but he assured me if it did yellow it wouldn’t be for fifteen to twenty years. He said he would be using a clear, natural, expensive oil-based polyurethane finish that was newly opened. I'm not sure of the brand but I do have a photo of the yellow oil drip down the side of one of the white panels around the stairs. The next day after the oil application he added the matte flat water-based finish and I absolutely know what product he used because after the second coat was applied I followed him out to his truck voicing my concerns about the color/finish of the floor and he showed me the container… Bona Traffic HD extra matte. That’s when he blamed the product for the streaky look of the finish. He said he doesn’t like using this Bona product for quality reasons but because I insisted on a matte finish he didn’t have a choice. He said he could use a different product but it would leave a shine and not have the matte look I wanted. Thankfully the guy did not apply the 'natural poly' over the factory finished Shaw floors. My contract with him states that he would apply it over the entire dining area, and I was charged for it, but at the last minute the decision to not do it was made. The guy is not affiliated with my general contractor because I wanted to hire a flooring ‘professional’ who truly understood hardwood floor finishes. I was incredibly anxious and very select about what I wanted in the finish and it took me a while to find and then trust someone. Unfortunately I paid him in full. Contractors, here at least, are allowed to have a lien against your home if you withhold payment and because I'm not familiar with what that truly means legally for me, as the homeowner, I paid. Thank you for your information regarding an inspector from NWFA -- it's a great idea and I will most certainly make a few phone calls. Recent research has informed me that an oil-based polyurethane needs to cure for at least two weeks to 60 days before adding a water-based finish, do you know if that statement is true? And if so then the pro not waiting for the curing time before applying the water-based finish likely and knowingly voided the warranty on the Bona product -- he's been in business a long time so he would know. Also, is a natural polyurethane the same as an oil-based polyurethane? I'm just making sure I understand everything before speaking with an inspector. Thank you so very much for your advice and time, SJ McCarthy, I really appreciate all of your help....See MoreNora Berheim
2 years agoSJ McCarthy
2 years agoNora Berheim
2 years agoSJ McCarthy
2 years agoNora Berheim
2 years agoSJ McCarthy
2 years agoNora Berheim
2 years ago
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SJ McCarthy