We did a slightly modified approach. The floor guys came, did all the prep work on the floor (which in our case was extensive), then left. We installed plywood the same thickness as the floor under the cabs to raise them to finished floor height and then shimmed them level (BTW, floor guys prep floors to be flat, which is not the same as level. Your floor may still slope even though it's not bumpy. Getting a floor both flat and level is possible but unless there is a specific reason for doing that, it's not likely to be done). We installed the cabs and. then the floor guys came back and laid the floor up to the edge of the cabs. Since we DIY'd the cabs, it didn't really affect the floor guy, as he did the prep work one week, we did the cabs over the weekend, then he did the floors the following week. We installed the uppers before we started the floors, as it's much easier to work on them without the base cabs in the way, so all we had to do that one weekend was put in the base cabs. That said, the good argument for putting them all the way to the wall is that if you ever remodel and want to move them, you might be sorry there is no floor below the cabs. In our case, we decided that was unlikely, the cabs are likely to outlive the floor.

I made good progress today, and figured I'd post an update in case anyone is interested. I got a copy of the relevant codes from Lowe's today, and a good bit of advice from their millworks specialist (whom I've been trying to track down for weeks). Code requires bucking. Jambs cannot be adjacent to the CB, even though the jamb is treated wood. And maximum allowable shimming is 1/4", so thick blocking won't work. Luckily, my front door meets the egress requirements, so this door can be smaller. The hole was made for a 32" door in the 50's, but a 34" will fit perfectly with 2X bucking. Instructions say to use 2x8 to completely face the CB. This will also make it easier to plumb and square the jamb because I can use my nailgun to tack it in place before anchoring it. The standard rough opening height is 80 7/8", but I only have 79 1/2", so I needed to special order, I was told that a steel door cannot be cut down, so fiberglass it is. HVHZ fiberglass is almost twice the cost of steel, but such is life. I also found, contrary to what I was told by a local contractor, that an outswing door jamb should be mounted flush with the exterior, not the interior. Not related to this thread, but it turns out that the doors are HVHZ rate regardless of inswing or outswing mounting. I had been told that they had to be outswing. Not an issue since I plan on outswing anyway, but figured I'd mention it. So, door's on order, will submit the permit applications next week, and in a couple of weeks I can start the job. Now I have to figure out if I need to file a notice of commencement. I think the answer is no, since this project is less than $2k.

Thanks to all who have followed and commented on this thread. Here is an update. As I mentioned, i had a meeting with the GC and he showed up empty handed. No pricing, no explanations, just blamed me for not knowing what the cabinets cost (remember the CM wouldn’t give me his pricing or a quote and my GC was telling me it was my job to get all that). We then scheduled a meeting with the CM together. I was not given a price breakdown, but was handed a piece of paper with handwritten numbers totaling $8600 and was told that number represented the “extras “ I added. Keep in mind, my CM had put an allowance of $21,000 in my contract to cover both cabinets and countertops. The contract doesn’t specify if that number includes installation. I then asked my CM: “If my extras cost $8600 that means basic cabinets with no extras for my home would be $19,200 (CM‘s bill minus $8,600). How did you determine I could get cabinets AND countertops for my house for $21k?” He had no answer. He will not admit an error was made in his calculation, and neither of them will provide an answer about why I never receIved a quote or why the cabs were installed before I approved them. Each has offered $1,000 to help Leaving me with $13k of the error to deal with myself. I have taken the few larger items that haven’t been started yet and was able to cut back in those areas to further reduce the bill by another $7k, leaving me with $6,000 to pay out of pocket. I love the cabinets and am willing to pay extra for them so I’m fine with that number. Just for kicks, I took my plans to Lowe’s and got a quote for bare bones basic cabs and it was $10k more than mine cost, so I know y cabs are worth their $28k price tag. I’m disappointed I have to give up some of the other things I wanted, but I have to put this behind me and move on. i have other issues with my GC now such as him being 2 months beyond the finish date in the contract, the lack of any written schedule for getting the work done, His continuous promises to get certain things done and no one showing up to do them for days or weeks at a time, etc. I continue to try to work peacefully and respectfully with him since the end is in sight, but I despise his work ethic. It is nothing like it was when he built my first home. A few lessons learned: make sure your contract addresses allowances in great detail, and make sure it also spells out who is responsible for communicating costs, obtaining quotes, approving the work, etc. and have it reviewed by an attorney prior to signing it. Thanks everyone!

Thanks. Well, that is what I thought. I should have said we were not ready to buy "additional flooring". We reused the old carpet, and there is no way to match it. We have built 3 or 4 homes, and carpet was always last. However, I think I DO need to tell him what kind of flooring I will be using, right? If I put a laminate floor plank or vinyl floor plank on the floor, will the baseboard trim be installed lower than it would be with carpet? Or does it not matter? Another question... In a bedroom doorway, where should the carpet end? Inside the bedroom, outside the bedroom, or halfway in between (in the center of the door jamb)? Will the closed bedroom door cover the carpet? It looks like he planned to use an iron to attach the new carpet to the old carpet, maybe? The two different carpets will not match at all, which is why I told him I was not ready. So, will he have to iron on a small strip of old carpet? (A couple of inches wide?) Doesn't the edge need to be attached to a carpet tack strip and turned under? Or does it get finished differently with plank flooring? I doubt I will find carpet to match so I am leaning toward vinyl planks. Thanks.