My problem is the definitions. We 'walk behind' any mower that's not some kind of rider, and Toro for example calls a regular mower a 'walk power mower'. I just didn't know what it was or I wouldn't have made the suggestion to lift/drop it to shake the float loose. Then you have plenty of posts here about 'mowers' or lawnmowers' that turn out to be riders and should be posted in the 'tractor' forum. Kind of a mess.

FYI (means: For your information) there are marks on the bottom end/ side of the dip-stick that show you when you have enough oil in the engine. This provided you have the machine on a flat, level surface! So, here's how we all do it: After you have drained out the oil, replace the drain plug, or turn the shut-off valve to "closed" position. Then sit down beside the engine, on the dip-stick side, and pour in several ounces of oil. Try the dip-stick check, by inserting it all the way down the tube, then take it out and look at it. If it needs more oil, put some more in it, then check it again. (By more oil, i don't mean the whole quart at one time !!!) add it sparingly, until it reaches the full mark on the dip-stick. You may have to wait between dip-stick insertions, until the oil has a chance to run down and settle. Just be sure you wipe the stick off between insertions. A question: Does anybody younger than sixty know how to check the oil in any type of engine that has a sump, or oil pan? Do they know, or even see those little marks on the dip-stick? Or, what they mean? Several folks have told me how their engine became "oil-bound". "Well, i just filled it to the top of the dipstick tube, until it wouldn't take any more!" Another "Rant by Rusty"

***"I guess the correct way to do that would be to get a compression gauge"*** Actually, even that is really not an accurate assessment of compression (or leakage of compression) on these engines. Some of these engines feature an Automatic Compression Release (ACR) which lowers the compression during cranking for esae of starting. The ACR renders a cranking compression test inconclusive at best. Kohler prefers a cylinder leakdown test to determine how well a cylinder is making and holding compression/combustion. Here is my standard poorboy leakdown test. A "cylinder leak down" test (or reasonable facsimile) using compressed air can be done to identify the route by which the compression is escaping. To do a "bona fide" leak down test requires a "percent of leakage gauge". A close approximation of the test can still be done if you have (1)Compressed air available, and (2) a threaded adapter fitting that will screw into the spark plug hole and also plug in to an air hose, (3) a means of securely locking the crankshaft/flywheel in the "TDC of compression stroke" for the cylinder to be tested. Locking or holding the engine from turning when compressed air is applied to the cylinder is very important, both for personal safety, and, for accurate test results!! Actual testing is simple and amounts to "listening" to determine where the air is escaping when compressed air is applied to the cylinder through the spark plug hole adapter fitting. As follows: Turn the crankshaft/flywheel to position the piston of the testable cylinder to TDC of the compression stroke. Here's a hint, the valve train for both valves of that cylinder will place the valves in the closed position. You determine this by watching the tappets through the open valve compartment (if applicable) or by watching the valves with the valve cover removed. When both TAPPETS or lifters, are retracted toward the camshaft, and you can detect clearance between the end of valve and the tappet.....lock the flywheel in place so the crankshaft can't turn when air pressure is applied to the cylinder. Failure to securely lock the flywheel against moving could result in personal injury if the crankshaft rotates in reaction to the compressed air applied to the cylinder. In addition to the locking of flywheel, keep your hands away from the flywheel and crankshaft until air pressure is disconnected from cylinder. With the flywheel locked securely, thread the adapter fitting into the spark plug hole (be sure to have one of the spark plugs with you when you buy the adapter fitting) and tighten it so it can't leak air. Connect the air hose from a source of compressed air (60psi to 90 psi recommended). IF, there is a loss of compression, you will hear air leaking from somewhere. Carefully determine where the air is escaping by using a 2 foot length of hose or tubing. Place one end of the hose or tube close to an ear (but not inside your ear) and then move the other end of hose to the exit portal of the exhaust system. If air is heard loudly escaping here, the defect is in the exhaust valve or seat. Check the intake valve condition by moving the end of the hose to the throat of the carb (throttle must be held wide open, choke butterfly open, and any crankcase breather hose must be disconnected from the carb, (if carb is mounted to the intake manifold). If carb has been removed, place the hose into the intake manifold. If air is heard loudly here, the defect is in the intake valve or seat. If you do not detect air escaping from either of those places, check to see if you can hear air escaping from the crankcase breather hose (or pulse hose if impulse fuel pump is present). If you hear air escaping from the crankcase breather hose, or pulse hose, the defect is in the piston or cylinder wall. Always remove the compressed air supply from the cylinder before unlocking the flywheel. A leaking head gasket serious enough to cause loss of compression would be obvious without any test equipment, and you know it right away when the engine is running.

As far as changing the oil.............if you have already changed the oil and filter, and no additional gasoline has leaked into the engine.........no point in changing it again until just prior to storing at the end of the season of use. When you get ready to store the machine for winter, I suggest you add gasoline stabilizer to a tank of fresh fuel to "hold" the gas until spring. I recommend changing the oil as the very last action prior to placing the machine into storage. After you fill the engine with fresh oil, run the engine for about 5 minutes at max RPM. While the engine is still running, turn off the fuel shut off valve and let the engine run until it uses all the gas in the carb and quits. These are by no means a complete list of things you can do to protect the machine over winter, but these are related to the problem you just tackled.