What was your hardest time after your most important person died?
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what are your hardest seeds to germinate...
Comments (33)Often when seeds are hard to germinate, it's because they have not been given the proper conditions. I use a heated, lighted greenhouse to germinate most of my seeds. It is kept at 75 degrees during the day, a little cooler at night. Works great for all Solanaceae, Cucurbitaceae, and Fabaceae, which love heat. I couldn't get celery to germinate there, though. That did better in my unheated basement, under conditions which would have rotted the others. I tried growing Martynia (the young pods can be eaten like okra), and attempted to start them in peat pots the first time as transplants. Only 1 of 16 cells came up - disappointing. I threw the dead cells on the garden, and turned them under in the Fall. In June the next year, almost all of those "dead" seeds germinated! They just needed cold treatment to trigger them. It turns out that the best way for me to grow them, is to just let them volunteer. C. chinense peppers often have delayed or staggered germination for me, even from fresh seed. Same for some eggplant; "Casper" has staggered germination even from new seed, while "Diamond" has nearly perfect germination even after 5 years. Go figure. Parsnips give me poor germination, but I'm probably getting them in too late... my soil is generally too waterlogged to plant in Spring. They might be better winter sown, since wild parsnips grow in my area. Bitter melon germinates well in the heated greenhouse - when the seed is only a few years old. It doesn't age as well as cucumbers or melons, though, and has more sporadic germination after about 4 years or so. Some gourds have given me trouble, but that was usually seed from swaps, of unknown age. They can have very prolonged germination. Chilliwin, I've had winged bean seeds sent to me that had zero germination - completely dead. Good seeds will respond to soaking. Soaking them overnight, and planting only those which expand the most, has worked well for me. Those which are slow to expand can be soaked for another night, after which you will probably get a few more good ones. Old seeds can sometimes be revived by a nitrate soak. Add 1 tsp. of a high-nitrate liquid fertilizer to a gallon of water. If an organic fertilizer is used (such as manure tea) then boil the solution to destroy pathogens & allow it to cool. Yeah, boiled manure tea... wouldn't that smell great in the house. ;-) Plant the seeds in sterile seed starter, then soak the pots in a tray of solution overnight, and drain any excess in the morning. If any additional water is needed to keep the soil moist, use only plain water (if chlorinated, allow the water to air out overnight in a bowl). This technique will work on a wide range of seeds, from beans to tomatoes. I had some yardlong bean seed that was sent to me, which looked shriveled & under-developed. The first time I tried to start them in pots, I got 0/32. The next year, I tried the same seed with the nitrate soak method, and got about 60% germination. Too bad they turned out to be daylength sensitive. :-(...See MoreThe most important time of the year for hosta
Comments (7)Chris W says; How deep should you plant a hosta? What are the consequences of too shallow? Too deep? What is the "right" depth for a hosta? Plants that are too shallow get heat stress faster, drought stress faster, and can get cold damage over the winter if that crown gets exposed. Deeper plants tend to stay dormant longer which can be important with frost sensitive plants like the fragrant ones. If you have hostas coming back smaller with smaller leaves, check if you can see the crown. If so it is too shallow. Plants that are too deep will need to grow up closer to the surface. Eyes may emerge further out from where the main clump was located so that you no longer have a tight clump. Stems may rot a little easier if they get buried in summer by mulch. I always try to get the "right" depth, but I would much rather err on the side of planting a little too deep. Plants will establish the "correct" depth the very next season if they were too deep. For example if you plant a crown at 3" and it wanted to be 2" you will probably never even notice that it had to grow up that extra inch below the surface before producing a new eye. However, plants can take several seasons to grow deeper if they come back at all when planted too shallow. In our rows we will often find that the largest hostas are the ones that were planted a little deeper than the rest. TOO deeply and we will see that the eyes are spaced a little further apart but are still usually the largest plantlets. When we have a plant that is struggling we find that the crown is often right at or slightly below the surface. We also find that moles often tunnel underneath plants causing them to rise up closer to the surface, plus creating an air pocket under the plant. Those plants dry out in the summer and struggle over the winter. The only time that depth may pose a problem is if they were buried or sank during the season. If a hosta was growing at a depth of 1" from the top of the eyes/dormant buds to the surface and was then planted at a depth of 3" you might get some stem rot. By early to mid summer most stems are hardened off to the soil and can tolerate a little covering but you might get rot problems during the heat of the summer. Because of this we prefer to topdress shallow hostas in the fall after they are starting to go dormant. In most cases it is just better to get the depth close when planting and the hosta will find its way the next spring if you were off a little. Two examples of plants finding the right depth after being planted too deep: 1) A Hosta 'Riptide', one eye, was planted last summer with the crown at a depth of 3 1/2". This particular eye emerged last, but by mid summer the eye was slightly larger than other plants around it. I dug it up and it had grown an elongated stem out of the main eye and then established a new crown at a depth of 2", measured from the top of the dormant buds to the soil level. Roots were at about 2 1/4". Our remaining plants were only at a depth of about 1" but should have been planted up to 2" deep without causing any harm. 2) A Hosta 'Pineapple Juice' was noticed in the growing area with 6 eyes spaced very far apart. It was planted last fall. Upon digging it I noticed that it had been planted too deeply, and possibly at an angle. The deepest eye from last fall was at a depth of 4 1/2". The shallowest was at a depth of 1 1/2". All of the eyes produced elongated stems and every single one produced a new eye at a depth of 1 1/4" with roots around 1 1/2". So in this case the proper depth would have been about 1 1/4". Butch adds; Nothing I'm about to say disagrees with Chris but there is a method to make it easier. Choose the depth you feel is proper then mulch when you've finished planting, the plant can find its own depth with out much suffering. Mulch will not overcome way to deep but help and mulch will absolutely overcome to shallow. Mulch is creating new soil, building it up slowly and the plant will find its own proper level. Two things mulch offers is insulation, summer and winter and air. Air is a little discussed subject and just as important as water, sun and food. Ive found that hosta roots do not need as much air as most believe but the crown area does need sufficient air. The air around the crown is consistent with hosta growing in the wild in Japan....See MoreDo you let your cleaning person near your new kitchen appliances?
Comments (53)Agree with eleena. In my bathroom, I can't get the cleaner for the tile on the mirror, or the faucet cleaner on the floor, or the floor cleaner on the faucet. You can't clean the whole thing without a damn spreadsheet. Teasing aside, having a simple cleaning service is not an upper class thing, at least not for two-job households. However, the reality is, having an intelligent, reliable cleaning person is an upper-class luxury, unless you happen to be lucky. I would love to have a touchup every week or two. However, I remember what the cleaning people did at my mom's place when she got sick and couldn't do it all herself. Each week, something new was broken, scratched, stained or missing. She couldn't afford to supplement the housekeeper's income by running out and buying new carpets or collectibles or lamps on a weekly basis--which is precisely what you are doing if you allow someone to break something in your house without paying for it. She lucked out for a while with an old Italian lady who cleaned like she did, but for the most part they were more trouble and money than they were worth. Now, if you can afford real staff, then you can get into human resources techniques. But if you can't, then you're not the employer, just a customer, and you take what you get....See MoreSTOP your reno! most important layout tip ever!
Comments (38)Chicagoans, your egg story is as funny as Marcolo's pie weights! (My own ketchup story is just sad, not funny.) For those who've never heard of them, pie weights (which have been around in one form or another for at least a hundred years), beans, rice, or a second pie tin, are put in a pie shell that one is pre-baking to keep it from bubbling. There are some kinds of pie that you make in the raw dough, and some for which you bake the (bottom) crust before filling. From Chef's Catalog:...See More- last year
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