Custom Closet spacing
Comments (6)
Susan
last yearMost wall hung closet organizers are roughly 15” deep, with the rod set back a few inches to allow 24” for hanging clothes. So your reach-in closet has some bonus space with that extra foot of depth. If you have hinged double doors, another option that would function a bit like a walk in closet would have double hanging rods on both ends of the closet, with a combination of drawers, shelves, and cabinets in the middle (shown in drawing below).The depth on those is only the 15” and there is room to pull out the drawers. But above all, you really need to assess/measure your belongings so the closet organizer has the right kinds/amount of storage to hold all of the items you want to keep in the closet. If you decide to go with a straight/wall to wall organizer, belts and ties could go on pull out holders on the short walls beside the doors.
Matthew Menard thanked Susan- PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
last yearIf I am understanding this the closet is deeper than the usual 26" so why not choose some of these for a great way to use the extra depth
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Comments (17)BenjesBride already drew out my suggestion -- thanks for that! Moving the washer/dryer to the hall seems to relieve a great deal of "busy-ness" in the small bathroom. However, going for all possibilities: With such a large pantry, why are you trying to fit these large machines into the small bathroom? They (and the water heater) could fit into the oversized pantry. I'd also consider a change with the water heater: Could you go with a point-of-use water heater, which requires less space in a small house? Or could you go with a "low boy" water heater /hidden under a shelf so that you could have some space up above for folding clothes? Finally, I understand that you're trying to have a door to the hallway AND your bedroom ... but in such a small space, the door swing is going to be problematic. I see two solutions: 1) make the door into your bedroom a pocket door. I usually would say something like, "Pockets are a bad choice for doors that're opened frequently", but since your goal is a hermit-like existence, I figure the door'll stay open most of the time anyway. 2) Go with a pocket door for your bedroom ... and place a hinged door in the hallway so that you have a small "hallway" that's part of the bedroom, and the bathroom door's in that small hallway. Yes, I think a closet is required for the room to officially be a bedroom....See MoreHelp with difficult custom closet design
Comments (9)So the other side is a mirror image of the photo you posted? What are the dimensions of each side? It seems to me the most efficient layout would be hanging rods low, where the angled ceiling starts, with shelves above. These shelves won't be very deep, but fine for shoes or small baskets. The opposite side can be a combination of drawers, cabinets, shelves, and long hanging space - whatever suits your needs. The depth of the storage on the inside wall depends on the width of the room - you don't want too narrow a walkway between....See MoreCustom closets: what do you love in yours or what would you change?
Comments (18)It sounds like you made really good choices. I was in your position a year ago and we moved into our house 8 months ago. We also used California Closets and I was very happy with the experiences. Having your shoe shelves be non-angled is very practical in case you want to use that space for storing other things in the future (which you couldn't do easily with slanted shelves). I also upgraded to the soft-close dovetail drawers, which I love. The only thing I sort of regret is letting my designer talk me into a few frosted glass door fronts. She wanted it to feel more open and for me to be able to "display" beautiful handbags, etc. but the reality is that it's a closet and not a display space and I would rather have had totally concealed storage. I am happy with the accessories I chose: a jewelry drawer, safe, tilt-out hampers, ironing board that tucks into a drawer, full length mirror, pull-out rod and belt rod. For my kids' small walk-in closets, we got full-length mirrors (that fold away) and pull-out hampers. For my youngest daughter's (10 years old) closet, I did not pay close enough attention to the height of the hanging sections. One section is too high for her to reach so I ordered extra shelves to put in that area until she gets taller. Same thing for the drawer sections. She can reach the top 2 drawers to open them but she isn't tall enough to see what is in them. I also wish we would have been able to have pocket doors for the smaller walk-in closets but our room design did not allow for this. For the benefit of other readers looking at closet options, yes, CC is pricey but they really do handle EVERYTHING from the design to the installation and the clean-up. I wanted/needed help to design our spaces to maximize storage space and could not do that without the help of the designer. I did look at The Container Store's custom system (not elfa) but when I went to the store to open drawers, see the finishes, etc. to get a sense for the quality, they felt flimsy compared to CC. I did notice, however, that they have recently revised their custom closet offerings so maybe they have improved....See MoreRemoving a laundry closet for custom cabinet?
Comments (11)I don't think the previous respondents understand what you are considering. If I were a buyer, I'd prefer the appliances in a closet as they currently are rather than exposing them as you are considering. If I were a seller (you), I'd remove any coffee stuff from a modified laundry area so prospective buyers wouldn't think, "Look, they didn't have anywhere to put their coffee stuff so they put it on top of the washing machine." You'd probably overload the circuit if you tried to run the washer and the coffee pot at the same time if both were connected to the same circuit. I looked at a couple of washer installation instructions; both recommended a dedicated circuit for the washer. -- Nobody in particular...See MoreMatthew Menard
last yearThank you so much for the input and I should have added pictures to start with to help visualize the space.
Here are two views.
The lined 15 3/4 area is the proposed closeted space (obv. no closet details included and hangers would be wider than the 15 3/4 but would be roughly hung @76+" height)
The 21" rough space remaining from wall/entry is illustrated as well.
The roof also slopes as you can see in the 'side/standing view'. I have a good design planned to account for this but want to be certain that the depth of 21" between wall/entry and the closet space will not feel 'cramped'.
Thank you SO MUCH to whomever replies, I am very grateful for the input/feedback.
Susan
last yearMatthew Menard
last yearHere is a crude representation of the overall design idea. The rod would be 78-80" above the floor and 38" clearance from the drawers below. It would be approx 60" long and will be supported in the middle.
Doorway is approx where the first drawer starts as can see from previous pictures.
SIncerely appreciate all the input. I just want to avoid building something cramped.
JAN MOYER