Does it really matter if the 50's BR's didn't have shaker? If you like it, and you're going to the trouble of replacing doors, I would do whichever style you like best. Otherwise, why not just paint your 'real 50's' doors? You're not putting in 50's light switches, and I assume you're not putting in a 50's fan. Doesn't look like a 50's toilet... I actually like the look of the shaker style drawer front in your pic, even though I have shaker doors in my kitchen and went with slab on my smaller top drawers. Problem with the shaker drawer front, is I am not sure if you can put a handle in the middle part, is there enough wood? So, if you wanted to position your new knobs/handles in the middle that might be a deal breaker. I am not sure if this option would work for you, but in our Master BR we did not have enough space to put in a 4 gang box. I positioned 2 2 gangs one above the other. You could do 3 and 2, or 2 and 2 using one double. I put my two programmable switches (and I strongly recommend using a timer switch for your fan) together, and the light switches together. In your case, I would put the three light switches on one gang, and the fan and the outlet on the other.

Desertsteph, that's an interesting idea about a second door directly from the master bedroom. One hangup might be the fact that our upstairs only has a seven foot ceiling height throughout (very standard for our vintage bungalow). Right where the back wall of the unfinished bedroom is it starts sloping down into the attic space. I don't think we would have the headspace for a door on the east side of the new gable, and we would have to widen the gable quite a bit to put a door where the attic door is planned and have it enter the bathroom. But I'll look at a carefully and make sure there isn't a way to squeeze it in. The changing tables say they are 37" tall, but I think that's to the top of the (removeable) rails, so the actual top may be 34" or 35". KMCG, I hadn't thought of kitchen cabinets as vanities. They are certainly easier to find used or discounted than bath vanities. Great price on the pieces you found! I'll keep my eyes out if we decide on a large single vanity or the changing tables don't work out. Hollysprings, I respect your ability to think outside the box. However, we really like our house as it is, other than the bathroom situation. It will only take a few LVL beams to support the gable on the loadbearing walls below; cantilevering adds nothing but a little length to those beams. I can't see how a much larger shed roof dormer would cost less or be simpler. Maybe I'm not understanding the situation, but it seems as though reframing the entire back side of the house, reroofing, exterior sheathing and siding, subfloor and flooring, all would be significantly more in quantity than what we are currently planning.

I like that plan a lot Keywest, except I would probably nix the window in the closet. Another design we are throwing around. Pretty much checks all the boxes. Door location is not ideal but workable. I really like how this one and yours above has everything open and allows for sunlight and a view no matter where you are in the bathroom. (Except on the toilet of course. lol) This design has a large closet door, and equally centered windows which is great. The toilet is right when you walk in, but I think by putting it in back in the alcove, and opening the door away from it like this, it wouldn't be too bad. Our current toilet is literately the first thing in our bathroom and it never bothered me or even occurred to me until you guys mentioned it on one of my plans. Not a deal breaker. This is my dream bathroom. I love the marble, grey vanity, bench, and especially the pony wall between the vanity and shower. What I'm imagining with built-ins above the tub, marble, and large windows. Our furnace is direct vent, and we are really limited on where we can put it due to crawl space issues. Pretty much have to put in in the addition, as per HVAC guy. Putting it inside the closet inside the bathroom on the far side is our best option. CO2 detectors are a must.

I had the exact same problem. I picked out the vanity I wanted but did not think about the fact that it wasn't made to sit flush against the wall. I spent a month looking for something else, but in the end we decided to go with something shorter and have it not be against the wall. But we were going from 72" to 60" which is probably not workable in your mom's situation. I did find a lot of vanities that did have flat sides and could work in a corner, if you are willing to have the countertop fabricated. They just need to not have any trim detail on the top or bottom like the one you picked out does. I would just look at the ones without the pre-made tops. Because the pre-made top will still leave you with a slight gap because of the countertop overhang. This is an example: Avanity Modero which is sold everywhere, not just at Lowe's. The cabinet we ended up buying is an Avanity Madison which won't work for you, but I assume it is of similar quality. We are pretty happy with it. The drawers and doors have soft close but I do feel like the glides in my Ikea kitchen drawers are better quality. It is very pretty and I wanted a stained wood so I am really happy with our choice. If I had been willing to go with a painted finish, I think we might have stuck with the 72" Modero.