Floors for rift cut white oak cabinets
I’m planning a kitchen remodel where I’ll have rift cut white oak cabinets in a light color stain and a contemporary style. I’m having a hard time finding engineered hardwood flooring in a color that looks good with the cabinets. The difficulty is that I want the floors to be fairly light as well, and I think there won’t be enough contrast with the cabinets. I need to find the flooring first, as the cabinets are custom and the stain also, so that can be finalized based on the flooring color. For both I’d like a neutral tone, not gray or reds.
The photos are to show the color of the cabinets for lightness, I know the tone is not the same. I’d like to keep the floors light but still somewhat darker than the cabinets.
Can anyone share what specific flooring they used with such cabinets, or what they would recommend? I’m getting so discouraged as I’ve looked at lots of flooring and haven’t found anything yet. Thanks in advance!
Comments (12)
2 years ago
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stained rift-cut oak veneer cabinets? pictures please!
Comments (16)Thank you so much for the links! nycbluedevil - here is the link to your threads. Your kitchen and bathroom are beautiful. It looks like you used stained walnut for your kitchen and stained rift cut oak for your bath. Beautiful! http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg1011163919891.html http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/bath/msg0622101018782.html detroit_burb - those links are great! I am really torn. We are stuck with clear coat, plain sawn red oak floors which are pretty grainy. We are going for a more updated clean line contemporary look with our ranch style house. My concern with the walnut cabinets is that the grain will compete with the grain of the floor hence the interest in rift cut oak as an alternative. But I really like the color of natural walnut - nice too that it's a little easier on the budget because we would just clear coat it rather than stain it. If we go rift cut - we would have to stain it to get the darker contrasting cabinet color that I think the space needs but it's more expensive and I wonder if it's too modern. Ugh. This is the decision I've obsessed about the most. Bathrooms were easy! Lighting easy! It's just these cabinets! Any thoughts greatly appreciated. I just saw this thread too which helped - but still I'm wondering about how it all works with the red oak floors. Following this post too... Here is a link that might be useful: Thread on rift cut oak, mid century and other options...See MoreI need photos of your stained rift sawn white oak cabinets! Please? :)
Comments (9)Linelle: your description perfectly captures the difference between my sample and what I'm looking for! My sample is flat and lifeless. What I want is for the wood to look rich and alive. The example I chose may be red oak. I know white oak can be just as lively as red oak though. There are plenty of QS white oak photos that look rich and full of figure. It's the rift white oak that I cannot find good photos of! ILoveRed: I have seen the photo of the tall cabinets in the first kitchen and it is gorgeous! It doesn't show the detail of the wood as clearly as I need but I'll add it to my photos. The second kitchen you found has some really good photos. Thanks so much for finding that for me! omelet: I'm not an expert either but I agree with you - the cut determines the figure of the wood more than the finish. But take a look at the figure on the unstained backside of my sample door: Unstained, it has a lot of wonderful richness and unexpected fleck in too. If they didn't leave the backside unstained I would have never known that RS white oak could look so lively and have such lovely figure. In one of my other threads, we seem to have figured out that they used a mix of woods and cuts on this sample door. The side rails look like RS white oak, top and bottom rails QS white oak and center panel is plain sawn red oak. That's a fantastic suggestion to post on the flooring forum! Off I go......See Morerift cut white oak kitchen cabinets
Comments (25)@eliseharrison The caption in your first says something about being treated with "oil," which is another option for finishing, using Waterlox or another tung-oil based treatment rather than lacquer. An oil treatment that has tung oil as its base like Waterlox won't yellow as much as an oil treatment that has linseed oil as a primary ingredient. These oil finishes have to be re-applied and maintained, but I've done a fair amount of research on them, and Waterlox original finish is what we're planning to do in our kitchen on cherry cabinetry. A few cabinet companies use oil finishes like Waterlox exclusively. It creates a very natural surface, but the ambering and yellowing will still occur over time to an extent even with this method. If you wanted to go with a whitewashed finish, then yes, that might work for you to get the color you want, but it won't look natural. It obscures the depth and sheen of the natural wood if it is done sufficiently to alter the color permanently to obscure the natural ambering of the wood. Some people really like this method and have used it to get the light neutral color they want without going for a total painted finish. Just be sure to view samples in person so you're sure you like it. There is a type of white oak harvested in Europe that has a low tannin content and ages to a neutral, silvery tone, but it is expensive and difficult to obtain in the United States in quantities large enough for cabinetry work. If the budget is generous, you could look into that option with a water-based, non-yellowing lacquer finish to get a natural white wood look....See MoreRift sawn white oak cabinets pulling orange after clear coat
Comments (35)I think it looks awesome! It might not be exactly what you thought, but I think it may be a happy mistake. I gives a little contrast to the floor and a nice back drop for the island. I do agree with Anna - change that trim around the base of the island. That light color will look a mess in a very short time. Assuming you are trying to cover a gap, see if you can get a scribe molding or shoe molding. This looks like a quarter round. . Enjoy!...See MoreRelated Professionals
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PRO2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoThe first issue is actually NOT the floor. Your inspo is probably a factory created cabinet. By nature a more consistent finish ......call this current "internet lust" and much more difficult to achieve in a local cabinet shop. Far more difficult, where pieces and parts may indeed take stain differently.
I'd be very certain, with a LOT of sampling testing from that shop, well in advance - before I tackled the flooring selection.
Truthfully - your best solution may be a white oak sanded on site floor, stained only when you know the final finish of those cabinets, and even stained, AFTER the cabinetry is installed.
https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5983411/help-wrong-finish-on-white-oak-cabinethttps://www.houzz.com/discussions/6230815/how-to-keep-natural-white-oak-color-on-cabinets
The floor below was pre existing, and the kitchen redone, new island years after. Floor is engineered , long discontinued, but it took quite a few trip/tests to the shop to get what my client wanted. Minwax.........one coat......nothing atop it. Believe it.
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In general · More Info- PRO2 years ago
Failing that above? You could try to sample as below, near you? I've used twice. In different tones, and quite lovely
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kempek01