Floors for rift cut white oak cabinets
I’m planning a kitchen remodel where I’ll have rift cut white oak cabinets in a light color stain and a contemporary style. I’m having a hard time finding engineered hardwood flooring in a color that looks good with the cabinets. The difficulty is that I want the floors to be fairly light as well, and I think there won’t be enough contrast with the cabinets. I need to find the flooring first, as the cabinets are custom and the stain also, so that can be finalized based on the flooring color. For both I’d like a neutral tone, not gray or reds.
The photos are to show the color of the cabinets for lightness, I know the tone is not the same. I’d like to keep the floors light but still somewhat darker than the cabinets.
Can anyone share what specific flooring they used with such cabinets, or what they would recommend? I’m getting so discouraged as I’ve looked at lots of flooring and haven’t found anything yet. Thanks in advance!
Comments (12)
Lynn Brenner
2 months ago
lidiap
2 months agoRelated Discussions
how do we finish white oak rift cut cabinets and preserve the nat
Comments (6)Try General Finishes High Performance Topcoat. I'm experimenting with it on red oak. It very much preserves the natural color of the wood. So much so that I'm wondering how to enhance the grain just a wee bit before I topcoat w/ it. No yellowing (on red oak) whatsoever. General Finishes contact phone # 800-783-8050. They're located in Wisconsin so Central Time Zone. I've called them before & will give them another call for suggestions on slightly enhancing the grain of red oak. It's available in satin, semi-gloss and gloss. McFeeley's has the best price that I've found. McFeeley's Oh, the stuff is super easy to apply. (I'm using a foam brush but it's sposed to spray nicely, too.) The only complaints that I've read about it is that it maybe dries too fast. I ordered some extender but haven't tried it yet since I'm only doing small pieces so far. Here is a link that might be useful: General Finishes High Performance Topcoat...See MoreKitchen Cabinets - Combining Rift Sawn and Quarter Sawn White Oak
Comments (57)Wow, those tiles will be stunning! Yes, great minds think alike lol. It’s nice we found each other, Houzz can be a lonely place when you aren’t doing a white shaker with marble look counters. There is absolutely nothing wrong with white and marble and when done right it’s beautiful- but it would be so so wrong with my house and my existing furniture and decor. My house is a 70s contemporary and since it has lots of natural stone, medium brown woodwork and exposed beams, the Mission style works very well with it. Having said that, I also thought a slavish reproduction of Mission/Arts and Crafts wouldn’t fit, but incorporating some of those elements was my goal. My parents were both antique collectors and a lot was passed down to me, so my decor is a lot of Mission but with some Empire, Eastlake walnut, and a few 60s-70s pieces thrown in the mix, in homage to my “contemporary of its time” house. My eclectic/eccentric style, for lack of a better term, isn’t something I see much in the modern HGTV world, but I often find inspiration in real estate photos from England, where I used to live, where being eccentric eclectic is a more accepted way of life :)...See Morerift cut white oak kitchen cabinets
Comments (25)@eliseharrison The caption in your first says something about being treated with "oil," which is another option for finishing, using Waterlox or another tung-oil based treatment rather than lacquer. An oil treatment that has tung oil as its base like Waterlox won't yellow as much as an oil treatment that has linseed oil as a primary ingredient. These oil finishes have to be re-applied and maintained, but I've done a fair amount of research on them, and Waterlox original finish is what we're planning to do in our kitchen on cherry cabinetry. A few cabinet companies use oil finishes like Waterlox exclusively. It creates a very natural surface, but the ambering and yellowing will still occur over time to an extent even with this method. If you wanted to go with a whitewashed finish, then yes, that might work for you to get the color you want, but it won't look natural. It obscures the depth and sheen of the natural wood if it is done sufficiently to alter the color permanently to obscure the natural ambering of the wood. Some people really like this method and have used it to get the light neutral color they want without going for a total painted finish. Just be sure to view samples in person so you're sure you like it. There is a type of white oak harvested in Europe that has a low tannin content and ages to a neutral, silvery tone, but it is expensive and difficult to obtain in the United States in quantities large enough for cabinetry work. If the budget is generous, you could look into that option with a water-based, non-yellowing lacquer finish to get a natural white wood look....See MoreCan they fix the colors on our rift cut white oak veneer cabinets?
Comments (14)bry911, I watched that same video last night. I was amazed that his third experiment was successful and gave me hope. At the end of last year when I questioned the finishing guy, he said he is going to hand-sand to remove the top-coat. And I doubt he/they will try to educate themselves. So I am going to put something in writing and send it to the owner to sign-off that if the finisher sands through the veneer, is not able to do an adequate job of color blending, or causes any other irreparable damage that all the doors be replaced with matching wood. Perhaps that will make him pay attention. They did do a good job for the most part. The biggest errors have resulted from the owner trying to take shortcuts and rush the installers. When the fridge panels had to be repaired (but were replaced instead), the installer told the owner that he needed to replace the large pop-up door above the fridge at the same time. But the owner didn't want to do that. That door is such a different color than the other two batches of wood. If it had been replaced then it wouldn't stand out visually. And then the finishing guy wouldn't have applied the whitewash trying to mask the differences. But, 20/20 hindsight and all that. Here are a couple of other pics to show the whole design. The doors above the cooktop have the Blum Aventos Lift Up System with Servo-Drive. And the niche in the island has floating quartz that is supported with hidden, inset support brackets. I did a lot of research to find out if that was a possibility and then found a custom stone installation company that had done something similar before. They were more than willing to take on that aspect of the project....See Moredan1888
last monthlast modified: last monthlidiap
last monthMom In mass
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PROJAN MOYER
last monthlast modified: last monthThe first issue is actually NOT the floor. Your inspo is probably a factory created cabinet. By nature a more consistent finish ......call this current "internet lust" and much more difficult to achieve in a local cabinet shop. Far more difficult, where pieces and parts may indeed take stain differently.
I'd be very certain, with a LOT of sampling testing from that shop, well in advance - before I tackled the flooring selection.
Truthfully - your best solution may be a white oak sanded on site floor, stained only when you know the final finish of those cabinets, and even stained, AFTER the cabinetry is installed.
https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5983411/help-wrong-finish-on-white-oak-cabinethttps://www.houzz.com/discussions/6230815/how-to-keep-natural-white-oak-color-on-cabinets
The floor below was pre existing, and the kitchen redone, new island years after. Floor is engineered , long discontinued, but it took quite a few trip/tests to the shop to get what my client wanted. Minwax.........one coat......nothing atop it. Believe it.
In general · More Info
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JAN MOYER
last monthFailing that above? You could try to sample as below, near you? I've used twice. In different tones, and quite lovely
lidiap
last monthMom In mass
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kempek01