Landscape fabric and clay soil
jplee3
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raee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio
last yearjplee3
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landscape fabric and impacted soil
Comments (3)That would be one way to go and would certainly be simple. Depends on what you want the garden to look like and how much time you have. That's a large area, do you have time to work it all this year? You could start with a portion if not. What's the soil like underneath, other than compacted? Clay, sand, silt? What's the organic matter content (I'm guessing not much). Most soil can be rehabbed with plenty of compost, so don't assume you have to buy soil. Not sure what 'triple mix' is but if you want to treat the whole area and don't necessarily need higher elevation, you can just till in compost. Till first, lay out a couple of inches and re-till. However I do like john's idea of rows. You wouldn't have to treat the paths between. Or you could lay out square areas with paths between and treat only the planting beds. Make them 4' or less wide and you can reach to the middle from either side....See MoreClay Soil
Comments (17)Thanks all, I'll look into finding a soil tester, I had one at my old place but that was years ago. I'd like to test ph as well, especially for a spot I want to put some Hydrangea. I just moved here last July and didn't have time to sort this bed out then. 3 sides of the house including this one were covered in river stones and it was a major chore removing what I was able to last fall. Hopefully I'll get the other areas cleaned up, the west side of my house is bare and needs a lot of work, but I want to get leaves and grass mixed on that side as well as the front before winter. I also know clay is good but too much is bad, turns to concrete and that's why I mixed in some peat but more so the leaves. As I said in my OP there was landscape fabric covering the borders and nothing was ever able to get down into the soil/clay. Just another project of many I want to do around here but eventually things will look good. Brian...See MoreChoices to Fix Overwatered Clay Soil
Comments (11)Looks to me like the landscaper didn't do anything to improve the soil before covering it with the cloth and mulch - and so made a hardpack clay condition even worse. That water cannot escape because of the mulch cover and cloth cover. Solution - I agree with ixnod's suggestion on soil improvement. I've broken up clay matter by adding loads of composted material and also used builder's sand (fine sand will turn the clay into cement). I also did the job myself one hole at a time. Clay soil finally improved. With organic matter in place, the earthworms will also help in improving the soil. So in my opinion, remove the fabric, get going with the soil improvement. Of course move yoru plants temporarily for the winter (which means pot them up and imbed them in the ground, and mulch for witner protection) Once soil improvement is done, try to see why a landscape fabric was placed in the first place. For purely decorative reason? Or to help what is normally a dry spot or weedy spot?...See Moresoil amendment question [bad clay soils]
Comments (8)Whatever your "landscaper" used for "topsoil" was probably about 95 percent mineral (the sand, silt, clay part of soil) and 5 percent organic matter and what your soil really needed was organic matter. Whether cottonseed meal, or any other meal, would help would depend on the Soil Food Web and how active they were. Things like cottonseed meal need to be digested before the nutrients in them are available to plants and if the soil has little organic matter the SFW is not there to do that. First you need to look closely at that soil to determine what it needs and that requires a good reliable soil test for soil pH and major nutrient levels and balance. Then these simple soil tests may also be of some help. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. kimmq is kimmsr...See Moreraee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio
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