Has anyone solved the problem of leaking minisplits?
susan
last year
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sktn77a
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Problem Solving by Almanac .....
Comments (2)Some of that is based on accurate observations by many people over a long time, and some researchers have found that there will be some truth in some of this folk lore, but much has been shown to be myth so due care in what you use is necessary. You can cut some tree species down anytime and not get regrowth while others will send up suckers no matter when you cut them down, more depends on how much energy the plants roots have stored than just when you cut them down. However a few tree species do seem to tend less to regrow if cut at certain times, and although reseachers have noted that they cannot explain why....See MoreElectrolux Ice Maker Issue...has this been solved?
Comments (2)Hantiki, Sorry I can't comment on the E-Lux icemaker issue, but hope you don't mind if I give you my $.02 on another thing you mentioned. I'm currently in the beginning stages of my kitchen reno. I've purcahsed and received all of the appliances. I too was thinking about going with all one brand, partly because I thought it would look good all being from the same manufacturer (stainless color, etc.) but also because I thought I would get the bast price this way. I think there are some manufacturers (e.g. Bosch) that will offer certain rebates if you buy a number of a certain level of their appliances, but I think that with some smart shopping and/or negotiation, you can do as good or better with a mixed bag. Many here will tell you that you might sacrifice performance in some appliances by going with a single manufacturer. I started out with the idea of going all Electrolux/E-lux Icon. As I got into the process further, I found that there were features and ratings of other manufacturers that I liked better. As it turns out, I ended up with no E-Lux appliances and not one appliance from the same manufacturer. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying anything bad about E-Lux, just poiting out the evolution of my appliance selection process. Just something to keep in mind. There may be some incentives to the store/sales guy to sell an entire suite of E-Lux (or any single brand, for that matter) to you - not sure. My advice would be to shop features/ratings first, then brand. Once you establish exactly which model appliances you want (of any brand) then start talking price including discounts, incentives, rebates, etc. with that dealer as well as other sources for the appliances. If you're like me, there is a strong desire to deal locally. In my case, the best prices locally couldn't compare with alternative sources so I ended up going that way. But if you want to stay local, make sure they're giving you the best deal they can. Good luck, Dean...See MoreHas Electrolux solved their Wall Oven Control Panel Problem?
Comments (40)Ya know, they were lucky, as I recall, you gotta have a funny like key thingie to remove the oven from the cabinet as I recalls, and I haven't the foggiest notion where mine is (removal Key). I best finds that succer, practice how to use it, and then put it where I know where it is! If the oven was off, when this happened, it should be reported to the proper safety committee, if it was off, "Your call", myself I might wait to see what Electrolux has to say, but if it turned itself on, then that's pretty serious! I had a cooktop, (Not Electrolux & not induction) that turned itself full on one nite and scared the *&%#@% (well you know), out of me! The company that made it went belly up, or I would have reported it. Gary...See MoreProblem Solving Geothermal Furnace Auxiliary/Emergency Heat
Comments (7)There is a problem with the electric resistance heating and its sequential operation. With all breakers ‘On’, the backup should active automatically WITH the HP (compressor ‘On’) when a demand for backup is called. This should be when either the temperature of the house drops 2-degrees or more below the set point or when the HP compressor has been running continuously for a pre-programmed period of time, that could be 45-minutes or more. Then backup comes on with the HP compressor. When the thermostat demand has been met everything shuts off and resumes ‘normal’ operation with the next demand, that is HP no backup. Emergency Heat should be electric backup no compressor, just blower. These issues are strictly electrical, programming of thermostat and HP control board. I don’t know what city you’re in or near so I can say what the ‘design temperature’ should be. I’ll make some assumptions about your system based on the information provided. It’s a 2-1/2 ton HP, 4- pipe linear horizontal non-pressurized ground loop with no expansion tank and a ‘QT’ Flow Center. As such, being non-pressurized, there is a reduced likelihood that the horizontal loops have lost contact with the ground due to contraction as a result of reduced temperature. However, it is important that you verify that the antifreeze level of the fluid in the ground loops is at least 20% as it would be quite normal that fluid level temperatures, particularly Leaving Water Temperatures (LWT) could be 25 degrees Fahrenheit. These (normal) temperatures below freezing might put your ground loops at risk of bursting should they freeze. That would be a disaster! Other issues are that your ground loops may loose contact with the earth during a prolonged dry spell. It is normal and highly desirable to have all ground loops installed with a ‘Soaker Hose’ or line and a HP selected that can monitor this condition and when called for activate a circuit, usually a solenoid, to turn ‘On’ the ‘Soaker Line’ to automatically rehydrate the earth so that the HP can resume ‘Normal’ operation. Does your system have a ‘Soaker Line’ buried below the frost line? Based on what you’ve indicated about your system operating properly when ‘fixed’ I’ll assume for now that your ground loops are sized correctly. Another factor that might be in play here is, is the flow rate high enough to generate ‘Turbulent Flow’? You need a contractor that knows about this and can verify the ‘Reynolds’s Number’. Basically, what you need is a flow rate of at least 3-gpm/ton to achieve turbulent flow and complete mixing of the circulating fluid in the ground loops. If flow rate drops below this figure, what you have is ‘Laminar Flow’ where the circulating fluid stratifies in the ground loops, circulates in a linear fashion as opposed to a turbulent fashion, and does not pick up all the heat from the ground that it was designed to. It is for these reasons that I recommend the flow meter linked to below. This device will allow you to verify the flow rate and unlike a straight gauge like a circular temperature or pressure gauge, will allow you to see the fluid and watch for air bubbles that will impede the flow, reduce the heat transfer and possibly degrade the impeller on the flow center circulator pump (which should be verified as well). However there is a reduced likelihood of bubbles in the system with the ‘QT Flow Center’. Does your system have a ‘Desuperheater’? If so please discribe it along with the buffer tank configuration and plumbing. SR Here is a link that might be useful: Flow Meter...See Moresktn77a
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