It all depends on the nature of the cracks. If a crack follows a panel joint it is probably due to poor installation or use of insufficiently dry framing. Look for screw pops to support this assumption. Cracks in a ceiling are usually due to these factors or unusually high humidity and if the cracks are at the ceiling-to-wall joint it can be because the installer screwed the ceiling edges to the framing instead of allowing the wall board to support them. If a crack is vertical at a door/window corner then the installer probably put a joint there which, of course, he shouldn't have. If a crack is diagonal across a panel it is most likely due to foundation settlement. Settlement should produce cracks in the foundation as well so it is usually not difficult to see. It is possible that the model unit was built to meet a tight deadline and the drywall joints were taped with a fast drying "setting type" compound and painted the same day. If you are really worried you should photograph the cracks and post them here or get a structural engineer or architect to visit the site and report back to you.

You are correct in what youre saying, BUT what are you gonna do about it? When a Manual J is done to size the AC/Heat, it considers the slab. To me, if you key in on proper attic ventilation with soffit/ridge vents, roof radiant barrier, R38 attic insulation, R13 walls, double pane glass, good caulking, efficient A/C sytem...it may not be very cost effective to go beyond. I designed my house with good orientation, good shade trees, two story instead of a sprawling one story, lots of ceiling fans, an upstairs that can be closed off, anf R19 between the two stories, so my highest summer electric bill in South Texas has been $125.

Robin, I doubt it's a moisture issue. Though if you have also made significant changes in the amount of moisture you generate (non-vented dryers, cooking, showers and plants are the usual suspects) without adding commensurate exhaust fan capacity it *might* be a factor. Tidewater Virginia is so naturally humid in the summer it's hard to see how anything could top that. Have you changed your heating system? Have you done any exterior grading or digging near the foundation? Have you changed the drainage patterns or blocked some previous drain channels, including perimeter or french drains? When you had the new windows installed, were they exact fits to the existing openings or did you change the sizes or locations? Are the new windows' walls associated with the cracking places? Have you added new door frames or removed any walls? Also, is the tile new? Perhaps it was installed as a cover-up over a problem? Are all the cracks on one side of the house or on adjacent or opposite sides? Do the cracks angle down in a consistent way over a wall? And if the cracks appear on adjacent walls are they mirror opposties in slope? Are the cracks on exterior or interior walls or both? Have you installed any heavy objects in the house: waterbeds, hot tubs, long runs of book cases, piano or giant cooking stove? Are there signs in the exterior of the brick cracking in the same patterns as the visible interior cracks? I live in a 160+ year old house and I have some cracks as deep as you described; they are somewhat seasonal. Often I will think I see a new crack, but it is just one I haven't noticed and started to worry about. (That's how I know to mark the cracks!) Actually, every single crack I've marked has magically stopped cracking - some of the cracks have had more than 20 years under marked observation. That tells me I don't have a big issue, except in my mind. Might be worth getting your home inspector back to take a look (he might do it for free since he did the inspection so recently ....) but for a thorough examination, you need a structural engineer, or an architect with a good structural engineering background - and probably an appreciation for older buildings. You might also see if you can hunt up your county engineer who might be aware of any local subsidence problems or faults. I wouldn't panic. Almost everything can be shored up, satisfactorily. One word of caution, though, I would want to work with an engineer or architect, not just a contractor in assessing the problem and devising a solution. Quick and easy is not what you want with structural issues. Correct and permanent are what you want - unfortunately, sometimes that can mean also mean not cheap. Since you are such new owners, and barring anything you created yourselves, you might want to review to see if the sellers were less than forthright. Did they live in the house prior to sale? Molly~

I'm a professional residential and commercial painting business owner. Benjamin Moore and Sherwin Williams both carry it as does home depot and lowes. The employees at either box stores have no idea its on the self. If you you look where the exterior paint is - the can says Elastomeric Masonry, Stucco and Brick Exterior Paint. I've used products from all three (Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams and Behr), take it from a professional and do yourself a favor - buy Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams. Remember there's a reason why these two companies' products cost more than Behr paint. You get what you pay for in quality, performance, coverage, and you have two major paint and coatings companies that specialize in only paints and coatings with great quality control. BTW they do not sell screwdrivers, wrenches, dishwashers, carpeting, tiles, plumbing, and so on. Point made.