Quality of New Custom Door
Mary Elizabeth
last year
last modified: last year
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Bluestar warning on quality and customer service
Comments (133)HELLO AGAIN EVERY ONE, after my post on Sunday I discovered a few typos after I printed my tome out. Additionally I wanted to respond to saydes post. FIRST THE TYPOS-THE MAJOR ONES ANYWAYS: A. When I was talking about using a 6-burner module in a 4-burner range I stated you must " jump small blades 4 and 6 together and then ground them to a screw on the range. Not a big deal." IT SHOULD READ SMALL BLADES 5 AND 6. B. LEGAL DISCLAIMER: "BUT YOU KNOW WHAT YOU GET FOR FEE" SHOULD READ WHAT YOU GET FOR FREE. C. When discussing the procedure to re-build/mount new flat top igniters, item #9, I stated you should put one or two washers under the screw so the igniter sits flat and thus stands straightThe washers should be placed under the old reused mounting flange so the igniter sits flat. The screw will go through the old flange, new washers and into the burner as it did with the old igniter. D. The new flat top igniters will have a mounting flange that sits 90 degrees from where you want the old flange to be glued. This new flange will just sit on both sides of the burner and will not interfere with anything at all. In fact it will probably make the new/rebuilt igniter more stable when attached to the burner. This will be very oblivious to you when you do a dry run as per #6 E. When I was discussing how to figure out which wires ran to which igniters if you got those wires mixed-up I said " the igniter will click, and you will know it is "wire/circuit x" so just mark that on the burner holder. In the next sentence I said plug the igniter wire from burner 3 to small blade 3, test it and you are all done. WELL IN ORDER TO DO THIS TEST TO FIND OUT WHICH WIRE GOES TO WHICH IGNITER ALL THE IGNITER WIRES WOULD HAVE TO BE PLUGGED INTO THE SMALL BLADES AT ONE TIME and YOU WOULD ATTACH THE BIG BLADES ONE AT A TIME, TEST, LABEL(the burner) REMOVE AND GO TO THE NEXT ONE. AS TO THE SMALL BLADES SINCE THEY ARE ALL PLUGGED IN YOU WOULD JUST REARRANGE EACH ONE SO IT WOULD BE ON THE CORRECT BLADE, IE: wire/circuit #1 to small blade # 1, etc NOW AS TO saydes post. There are two distinct problems. One being the igniters, which is the device mounted on the burner which sparks and the second being the ignition module which is the electronic device which produces the energy for the spark and monitors whether or not the burner is still lit. It is very hard to tell from the guybanks web site which ignition module(s) is new or old as the four of them listed, 2 white,( one obviously Invensys) and 2 blue (one of which I know is a Tytronics), all have multiple Viking ranges associated with them. The part I received (PA020042) was labeled as having been made in 2005. However the 4 igniters I received were all made in May of 2008 so I assume these are the new Viking igniters. So to answer your questions: yes, you can fix your Bluestar once and for all using the new Viking "flat top igniters" and Tytronics ignition module. As far as Vikings igniter problem I would say they have it fixed as long as the model you purchase has the flat top igniters. Viking appears to have switched from Invensys ignition modules to Tytronics, so as long as the Tytronics work better or are of a better design or quality then I would thing that problem is solved, although Im not sure if there is a Tytronics replacement for every Viking model. For those of you who dont want to go through the hassle of switching from Invensys to Tytronics, well now you have a place to buy them, somewhat less expensive and much more response( from what some posts say) Guybanks ships orders out in a day or two by USPS....See MoreWriting quality standards into contract for custom vinyl windows
Comments (1)I am just a homeowner but have built our own home and have done enough windows and doors replacements over the years and not always very smart in how we did it. It was before the internet and before forums like this existed. My opinion is that *IF* you understand *WHAT* you are writing (standards, requirements) and you understand *WHY* you are writing them, and you are not just copying something verbatim from elsewhere w/o clear understanding, then you are doing this absolutely right. Leave no details out once you do this though, once you go down this path, every change and modification will require documentaion and signatures. We did exactly this for our latest windows+door work just 4 years ago. All the contractors that came our were surprised and most laughed. One who did not and got down to working with our spec got the job. He told us he had been in this line of work for a long time and had never seen a private homeowner who did so much work to specify our requirements. It made our ordering at the shop easy and it also made our screening of contractors easy. Those who took the time to understand our spec, could understand WHY we stated certain requirements and could explain how they plan to address our needs were good candidates, the rest were not worth the effort. The down side of this approach is use of vague wording. If there is something important you DID NOT specify and it happens to be something that allows a contractor to not do, it becomes a grey area if your wording is poorly chosen. If things go to court, they can say you never specified it so they did not have to do it. THis is why you need to know what and why you are specifying these things and once you start, you must be as complete as possible, leave no details out and document everything. Good luck!...See MoreQuality but not custom kitchen cabinets?
Comments (20)Might depend on style and layout but if you have full overlay with face frame cabinetry or frameless you almost always will have fillers whether you are using custom or stock cabinetry. If as you indicate you have a layout that works with standard measurements then you should look into stock cabinetry as it is very possible you could save quite a bit of money. Custom indicates how the cabinets are manufactured not their quality.In some markets you can get semi-custom lines like Kraftmaid for the cost of custom but most stock lines will be cheaper. My condo is strewn with Ikea boxes with my future cabinets in them. For me they are good quality and like you my layout doesn't require custom sizes but others will tell you they are not a quality product - you have to decide for yourself where you want to draw that line....See MorePaint custom oak cabinets and get new doors, or replace altogether?
Comments (27)I have always loved that IKEA kitchen. I see what you're aiming toward, and I'm not saying you shouldn't go in that direction, but painting your cabinetry white isn't necessarily going to get you there. What people don't tell you about sun rooms is that they darken the rooms they are attached to. All the natural light that would have poured into your space is now pouring into the adjacent room, and you're left with a small kitchen window with upper cabinets surrounding it. So what do you do now? Remove the uppers around the window. That means taking out that corner-like cabinet and making the range wall uppers a straight run to the wall. It also possibly means moving those two uppers over the peninsula. Are you interested in making your kitchen window larger? Regardless... you're going to want to invest in really great lighting: cans in the ceiling, under cabinet lighting, and possibly pendants for your peninsula. I know that sounds like a lot for a small space, but it makes a huge difference. Finally, I know you don't want to change your floor plan at all, but I bet the layout folks here can figure out for you how to re-use some of those uppers in the space, or how to reconfigure your existing space to make it function better. It's worth posting your existing layout just to see....See MoreMary Elizabeth
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