Roses foliage comparison (blackspot) late in the season.
I wanted to slowly post some of my roses foliage now at the end of the season to show how the foliage holds up no spray.
Some of these are very popular varieties and I hope it is helpful to those trying to choose what to grow no spray. All pictures taken 11/01/22
Annie Laurie McDowell (100 percent blackspot free all season)
Flamenco rosita (100 percent blackspot free all season)
Crazy love ( 90 percent free of blackspot, it gets some midsummer and loses a few leaves) maybe 20 percent foliage loss
The Fairy (minimal blackspot all season)
Zero foliage loss
Kendyl Marie (minimal blackspot all season)
Zero foliage loss
Teasing Georgia (does great all season until now, but for me thats great) End of the season blackspot is still a great performance here
Silas Marner (mild blackspot on and off all season and recovers fast)
Olivia (mild blacspot midseason and losing foliage now at the end, very good overall)
Comments (9)
Related Discussions
Can blackspot kill a rose?
Comments (10)Is there something about his sprayer that is the problem? If that is it, go to Home Depot and buy an easy-to-use 1 gal. hand-pump sprayer in the garden center and a bottle of Bayer Advanced Garden Disease Control (fungicide). Following directions, put some Bayer in the sprayer (about 1.5 tablespoon, if I remember correctly), a few drops of dishwater soap (I never can remember if Bayer already has a stick-um in it), and fill the sprayer with water up to the 1 gal. mark. Then pump the handle up and down several times and turn it back to the lock position. Aim the wand at the bush and press the "on" button (you may have to adjust the tip of the wand to a wider spray pattern). Spray until everything is wet. That's it. Oh, yes--pick an early morning when there is almost no wind at all, and make sure you are wearing long pants/long sleeves, etc., at the very least, and always stay downwind from the spray wand. The hardest part about spraying for me is making myself do it--but with the cooler temps, I know my garden is going to have a bout of BS, so I assume yours will too, unfortunately. Really, it is very easy to spray--once I convince myself to get off my duff and actually do it. LOL Good luck, Kate...See MoreBlackspots...is it too late to spray?
Comments (5)It is not a question of being "too late" but rather of whether you want to have blackspotted roses or not. It may be "too late" to prevent the current infection, but it is not "too late" to provide protection for later BS infections. I strongly support the idea of planting disease-resistant roses, but even those roses will get some BS if the weather conditions are conducive to BS production. If you grow roses, you have to do some spraying for BS in most cases--but I would never make it a bi-weekly ritual for the entire growing season. That's more spraying in six weeks than I usually do for the year. It's really a trade-off--in my case, some limited spraying combined with disease-resistant roses. Others will make other choices, depending on their goals and priorities. By the way, if in the past your roses broke out in lots of BS after you sprayed, that simply means that the leaves were already infected at spraying time even though you could see few if no symptoms yet. A number of sprays prevent new infections, but do not "cure" leaves that are already infected. That is a crucial difference to keep in mind. Kate...See More2013 rose season/2014 rose season
Comments (13)I had similar experiences. Like Seil I had a hard winter, lots of dieback, too much rain and cloud cover, so much BS, but some spurts of great roses blooming. Sara, last year I had more roses and could cut a bouquet whenever, not this year, about 1/3 less blooms. However, right now the bushes are looking good with chance of frost tonight. I plan on cutting this evening! I do think I had more fun growing and enjoying my roses this year than in the past....See MoreWhy does rose planting season have to coincide with bulb season?
Comments (14)Thanks for the compliments and, um, "sympathy" (smile). It's good to hear other GW friends admit to being crazy, Katie, and I happen to think it's a good kind of crazy. I mean, truly insane gardeners like us don't need to come inside when it starts raining either (like today). I'm glad (and surprised) that daffodils do well in the desert, though come to think of it a lot of bulbs evolved in high deserts in Turkey and such. You might try the low botanical tulips that are the size and timing of crocus, as they like it dry. You're right, Sharon, by this point I can just dig and replace the bulbs by now to plant the rest of the roses, but for me it doesn't really help fall planting. I just dig where I know not enough bulbs will survive, and again in the fall, if I dig up a bulb to plant another one I just replace it and move on. Carol, it sounds like we have a new convert to bulbs and roses, and Canada should be a good place to mingle those, as JJPeace can testify. Cadiarose, I do appreciate the work of keeping up with both obsessions, and I agree that if I had to choose I'd pick the roses. However, self-sustaining bulbs like crocus or daffodils don't really take any work once planted, and they can be at the back of the bed so you can forget about them once the roses start. Just a thought to maintain the insanity a little longer (smile).\ Cynthia...See More
oursteelers 8B PNW
last yearSorry it took so long. Between the new puppy and downpours I got distracted
Pretty much everything in my yard responds beautifully to fall rain whereas spring rain causes blackspot🤷🏻♀️
Variegata di Bologna
Madame Antoine Mari
Zephy
strawchicago z5
last yearlast modified: last yearThe real test of high humidity is enclosed rooting bin with constant wet leaves for 2+ months. Re-post from the other threads on Evelyn and older Austins:
Below is what I notice in my garden of 150+ fragrant own root roses:
1) Own roots that can take high humidity with healthy leaves in my rooting bin, even with constant condensation (water) on leaves & stems. These can take extreme humidity yet have 100% healthy leaves in heavy clay, if the soil is NOT acidic. Evelyn, W.S. 2000, Mary Magdalene, Christopher Marlowe, Pat Austin, Queen of Sweden, James Galway, Dee-lish, the Dark Lady, Spirit of Freedom, Tchaikovsky, Purple Lodge, Annie L. McDowell.
2) Own roots with healthy leaves with humidity, IF the drainage is fast, plus liming on top to neutralize acidic rain: Abraham Darby, Crown princess Magareta, Tess of d'Ubervilles, A Shopshire Lad, Radio times, Well Being, Augusta Luis, Sonia Rykiel, Yves Piaget child, Lavender Crush, Annie L. McDowell.
3) Own roots that blackspots with high humidity despite fast draining or liming, and need constant potassium fertilizer to stay healthy: Golden Celebration, Carding Mill, the Squire, Gertrude Jekyll, St. Cecilia, Firefighter, Comte de Chambord.
4) Own roots with THICK LEAVES which rabbits don't eat: Evelyn leaves are thicker than Abe. Tchaikosky leaves are thick like Augusta Luis, Christopher Malowe leaves are thick like James Galway and Purple Lodge. Crown Princess Mag, Strike it Rich and About Face have thicker leaves than Cading Mill.
Never see blackspots on Chris, Evelyn, Tchaikosky nor James Galway.
5) Own roots with THIN LEAVES which rabbits devour: Abe. Darby, Munstead Wood, W.S. 2000, Sonia Rykiel, Well Being Golden Cel., Firefighter, Boscobel, Comte de Chambord and Annie L. McDowell.
The above are my observation with own-roots in my garden plus rootings in humid bins of Evelyn, Dee-lish, W.S. 2000, Spirit of Freedom, Christopher Marlowe, The Dark Lady, The Squire, Augusta Luis, James Galway, Mary Magdalene, Abraham Darby, Sonia Rykiel, Dee-lish, Golden Celebration, Gertrude Jekyll, Radio Times, Pat Austin, Well Being, Tchaikovsky, Crown Princess Mag., Purple Lodge, thornless Yves Piaget child, Annie L. McDowell.*** Princess Anne was healthy in its younger years, but as its roots mature in its 5th-year, it's prone to blackspots in my poor drainage clay. Some fast-maturing Austins have chunky & woody root that rot fast in standing acidic rain water like Princess Anne.
Some own-root starts out as healthy cluster roots, then matures to chunky & woody (like Dr.Huey-rootstock) and become more Blackspot-prone in later years like Princess Anne.
Other Austins like W.S. 2000 have cluster-root (similar to multiflora) that does not rot in acidic rain, thus zero blackspots even as 12th-year-own-root. Leaves of W.S. 2000 and Evelyn have NO blackspots in high humidity rooting bin.
Evelyn can take high rain and poor drainage clay better than Abraham Darby (best bloomer for hot & dry and alkaline climate).
Abe. Darby & Sonia Rykiel & Well-Being need a higher pH and all 3 bloom well with my alkaline tap water at pH 9, thus best for hot & dry climate.
Below are pics. of W.S. 2000 being healthy, it's right next to the rainspout dumping tons of acidic rain at pH 4.5, note the pale leaves:
Below pic. of Evely was taken July 24, after week-long rain, I never see blackspots on it in its 12 years as own-root, if biochar at pH 8.6 is given before a rainy month. Note Evelyn's paler leaves than Abe. Darby:
Below is my 1st Abraham Darby healthy and glossy leaves, in a fast drainage spot. Pic. taken 11/5/22 after week-long fall rain. My 2nd Abraham Darby in slow drainage clay lost all leaves from blackspots, so fast drainage is crucial for health. Digging down to 2 feet, then pouring a 3 gallon bucket of water is my test for potential blackspots. If water doesn't drain fast, then roses will blackspot during acidic rain, with more woody roots like Abe. Darby.Woody roots like Abe or Dr.Huey-rootstock produce more acid than cluster root like W.S. 2000 or multiflora-rootstock.
Sunny Mississippi 8a
10 months ago
dianela7analabamaOriginal Author