Closing on 155 year old house
darkktur
3 months ago
last modified: 3 months ago
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elcieg
3 months agointwilight z6a KS
3 months agoRelated Discussions
Deere new LA120 vs old LT155
Comments (14)I can give you some input based upon my experience with the engine (16 hp Kohler single) and tranny (K51) that is in my 2000 Scotts 1642. These are the same engines and transmissions used in the LT155 and LT160s that year. I have approx. 300 hours on my tractor. The enging and tranny have been flawless. My tractor has a 42" deck, but again, comparing it to the 42" deck available on the LT155 and LT160 that year, they are nearly identical. My unit has not lead a particularly easy life. I pull a 40" Brinly core aerator around behind it with 125 lbs of extra weight twice a year. I mow approx 3/4 of an acre with some hills. If the tranny and engine on the LT150 feel strong I wouldn't worry about them failing or being the weak points in those tractors. BUT, without knowing the hours or how they were used (or abused) by the previous owners, I would buy the new one. You get a warranty and from the description of how you plan to use it, it should last for the rest of your life. The Deere LT's were good machines. I wanted one but they were about a $1000 more than the Scotts units at the time and I couldn't afford the jump. It turns out these early JD Scotts units were pretty good machines and based on how it has performed up to this point, I would expect another 7 years out of it without any major problems. Good luck in your decision....See MoreMy JD LT155 - now 7 years old. REPORT
Comments (5)Knuttle, The transmission is supposed to be "sealed," as in you don't ever need to change the oil. Therefore there is no easy way to drain and refill the unit. Honestly, this was the only part about the LT155 that bothered me. EVERYTHING that uses oil as a lubricant, wears and produces heat SHOULD be changed, right? I found the post below where a Gardenweb forum member sucessfully changed the oil in a similar Tuff Torq unit. Not as easy as "drain and refill," but not rocket science, either. I'm going to give it a shot this fall before I put the tractor away for the winter. Good Luck, Greg Here is a link that might be useful: Changing oil on...See MoreOld Home Foundation Vents...open or close?
Comments (1)Ah, yes, the old cellar/foundation vent question..... We go round on this one, regularly, in this household. And there are experts on both (all?) sides. I note you live in Virginia, so your issues are different than mine in northern NY, because we are so much colder in the winter and our summers are different. But, I believe that in the effort to make houses more energy efficient, by modern standards, it can be a mistake to close up the vents if the result is trapping moisture vapor rising up through the soil under the house. However the vapor problem can be ameliorated (and really should be if you close the vents) by other means. In the winter we have to keep our cellar and exposed foundation well insulated or our pipes will freeze, but in the summer I want to get the foundation windows open and cellar door ajar in order to move air through and out using wind and air pressure differentials. This exposes the cold stone walls of the cellar to warm moist air and causes condensation, but eventually it diminishes as the walls warm and dry over the summer. A sealed crawl space or cellar can also have radon issues, if that's a problem in your area. What we did, (FWIW) is cover cellar floor with vapor retardant material; keep everything buttoned up during the winter, but opened up in the summer. Monitor for radon, so far negative. Does that help? If you are having a specific problem or issue other than the dilemma of what the general protocol should be, I could make other suggestions. Oh, one other thing: opening up the crawl space and cellar may let in more mice, but also allows milk and black racer snakes to enter and take care of the problem, at least up here. In your case the reptiles may not be so benign or welcome. (When I lived in VA, some of my neighbors had serious copperhead issues...) Molly~...See Morenailing or screwing into 155 year old rafters?
Comments (10)This hole is the only way into the attic except for the small vents at the peaks of the house on both ends, so a hole would need to be cut larger. That part of the house is 3 stories with the attic above the 3rd story (it is low and would only be good for storing boxes and holiday stuff). The existing hole I think was added just so the PO could get into the attic to upgrade the wiring (there are remains of knob-and-tube wiring, but it is all inactive (just the ceramic parts and a few lengths of wire.) So it is either cut the hole bigger to insulate, feed insulation in one bat at a time, unroll a roll in the room & feed into the attic unrolled or don't insulate. To me, the hole seems to be the best option The PO did drywall over anything in the house. Everything is drywall now, no plaster that is visable anyway. I'll check the existing hole to see if there is plaster, the existing hole just has a square of drwyall screwed up to 2 pieces of wood to close the hole, PO's didn't seem to care if it looked good or not as the drywall hole-cover isn't even painted. I've got drop clothes and will put a fan blowing out the window and shut the door to the room (it is just a storage room). the only time I go to the third floor is to feed my cat and clean the litter box or go into my 'Lego room"...See Morecpartist
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