Choosing new windows for 45 year old home
John
3 years ago
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John
3 years agoRelated Discussions
4-5 year old fruit trees for sale
Comments (15)Ravenh that is positively decadent, even by the standards of some of my wealthiest clients. I've seen 100 year old trees that might be worth it if you think of the trees as a living sculpture but I've never seen a 50 year old that was so extraordinarily beautiful to be worth that investment. In the neighborhoods of Greenwich, CT and parts of Westchester, NY (my main work domain) rich folks often purchase 10-20 year old trees from distant commercial orchards. I was called onto an estate owned by a leading fashion-designer- clothing manufacturer where a 50 tree orchard like this had been installed at about 3 grand a tree and after 3 years the trees were completely stunted. The high end nursery responsible for the installation failed to solve the problem even though it was quite obvious when I poked around. The holes had been dug by the same tree spade that dug up the trees so they were the same size as the root ball. The soil was a silt that compacted from pressure from the tree spade and roots could not cross the glazed walls of the planting holes. I proscribed breaking up the soil with shovels from the edge to a few feet beyond the original root ball and didn't hear back from the contractor who subcontracted me for the consultation. A few years later a friend on mine got the contract for the property and subcontracted me to tend the apples and they were in great shape, having completely recovered. I'm taking full credit, of course, although none of the trees were left untreated as a control. In this business when things go well you better take credit because when they don't you will certainly be blamed....See MoreNew Windows~What's Your Experience?Tell Me Like I'm Six Years Old
Comments (24)Cup of Glad this thread is continuing to get so much traffic. I'm curious first, why are you replacing your windows? I ask because what most people don't realize is in "most" cases the best windows for any home are the ones that were originally installed - The exceptions to that can range from poor quality windows, poor install, failure Think about many homes that were built around turn of the century - 75 -100 yrs ago, how the windows have stood the test of time. Yes, they are not "energy efficient" however, from a proper fit & aesthetic view point they work. I think when the window sales people massage the homeowner on the "efficiency" issue - If you are changing out 16 windows let's say at avg rate of $750/window - for product & install that would be 12K - . The equation the sales people negate to offer said homeowner is what the return on investment would be & how long it would take to get there. I have done this, believe me - It would take most folks 10-20yrs to realize any investment. If you have done your homework & still feel replacement is the way to go - other considerations that should be taken; What is the original architectural render of the home? Can a replacement window capture that? think size/scale - muntins, mullions, configuration, trim, fascia - One can't just figure a one size fit & then install without a compromise elsewhere. Pictures of the exterior of your home in daylight & night help with proper choices. This is where I see many failures. One can have a beautiful 1900 home and take out all windows & replace w/replica vinyl - One could put in custom wood in the same home, but that does not guarantee aesthetically correct rendering. I found looking in window books & catalogs helpful only to a certain degree - I had to make sure the size, material configuration was indeed matching to what the original rendering of the home was (that was only for 4 windows!). Yes, it took some doing - when I finally thought I had it right, my architect friend brought yet another issue to light - "The muntins make the window look squatty" huh? - turns out the configuration of the muntins created a rather horizontal appearance in the individual panes rather than vertical - she was right. BTW we used Marvins - the project was a kitchen gut in 1930 Dutch colonial home. The replacement windows were done because the part of the kitchen we replaced the windows was once a screened in porch and PO put in aluminum picture windows w/side casements on front & back - ALL wrong for the home & unbalanced. Research here and other places led me to the Marvins - very pleased with the product. For the rest of the windows (26) double hung - we considered Marvin's sash replacement product (mentioned above) but do to the scope of our original renovation & cost over runs we decided against this. Instead I found "the window doctor" - yes that is the name of his company. For $200/window he replaced all parting strips, re-weighted where needed, all new roping, repaired chalking - Many of the windows were not operational, painted shut etc. Every window is now operational & they are lovely over 80 yrs young & very fitting to the home. I wish more homeowners would give consideration to rehabbing windows rather than ripping them out for a substandard product. Ok, I'm an old house snob - truth is told Best to you - stepping off soapbox...See Morewindow treatments for 100 year old house
Comments (9)I live in the Midwest where we are blessed with real winters and buggy summers. We put triple track storm windows on our last house because we weren’t staying and didn’t want to invest in thermal windows. I was pleasantly surprised at how easy they were to put on and how really well they insulated. We were able to match the exterior color of our house trim and the sash height so they looked appropriate on the outside. Not replacing the window meant that we didn’t have to worry about messing up the interior aesthetics of an old house. Plus, screens are great for summer so you can open up your house. Honestly, if the windows in our current old house had been in good shape and functional I would have considered using triple tracks again. The only real downside is washing but I can hire a lot of window washers for the cost difference. So much better than what I remember as a kid!!...See More26 year old house - need new insulation?
Comments (20)Our HVAC is about 7 yrs old. I may hire a few insulation companies to give me an estimate. I'm sure we have air leaks as the house is old and we have not replaced all the windows, only some. Thanks again. It wouldn't hurt you to get some estimates, just realize some companies use this kind of stuff as a high pressure moment to do something now. Getting a "free" estimate is what it is--- the salesmen make their living by selling, so keep that in mind if you take this path first. Ask questions, listen carefully to the answers. Anything they promise, should be in writing. That is your contract. Questions like improving attic ventilation --- naturally. That is an attic that will perform --- just dumping new insulation with no vision isn't a job you should accept in my opinion. Do not accept any "powered" ventilation options. Anything done to improve natural ventilation --- remember air in = air out. Just putting new places on roof for heat to escape is not enough. If you have adequate sofit vents that aren't plugged up -- that would be a good question to have answered. You can go out around the outside and count the vents yourself. If the house is A frame, the vents are commonly on two sides of the house, there should a vent in between every rafter of the A frame, ridge vent on top of A frame roof. Non powered ventilation a good choice is whirly bird vents. Older homes can have vents in the A side of the house too, sometimes at the top of the A frame sides. If you have these things already, make sure the soffit vents (any vents you find) aren't plugged, or become plugged by adding in new insulation. Some insulation products are mostly air. Over a lapse of time the insulation settles. So you get what you pay for most of the time in this realm. The con with other products that are more dense is if you suffer a ceiling cave in -- the clean up is much messier. Note: usually soffit vents become plugged where the roof rafters rest on exterior walls of the structure, it's not actually the vent but the pathway leading to higher points in the roof. (heat rises naturally, but air needs a path in and out... or it becomes an easy bake oven. LOL) You don't get hot air out naturally without having a path for outside air to enter the attic. So this could lead into roofing type issues too. If you have a good amount of ridges on your roof, they should have vent caps on the ridges of the roof. These are high points of the roof. (See A frame comments above) Insulation factors are important too, but it's much easier to insulate a "cooler" attic than a hotter one due to ventilation problems. If after the insulation estimates you have more questions than answers then spend the $250 for the energy audit for that additional info that might not be provided by insulation company....See MoreJohn
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