The drain is offset to the back, i.e., a right-rear corner drain. It is an Elkay EGUH2816R. I don't know if you can tell from the picture, but my drain stub-out comes out farther from wall than the GD drain, and then the P-trap loops backwards to meet the GD drain tailpiece. Thus, I can see your contractor's concern. The drain stub-out perhaps did not need to come as far from the wall as I made it. As you can see, I offset the drain stub-out from the center of the sink drain by 6" or so. I think that if I had placed the stub-out in line with the drain, I could have gotten everything to work. I would have had to have had a shorter stub-out, and then turned the GD tailpiece a bit to one side (by rotating the GD). This probably won't make you feel any better, but I filled several pages in my notebook with calculations before deciding where to put the drain stub-out! (In my case, I was trying to accommodate both this sink and some future homeowner's unwise decision to use a sink with a center drain.) Here is a link that might be useful: Elkay Elumina

I think if you take the time to analyze the facts your answer will be a no brainer. Fact- A kitchen makeover is without question one of the largest and most expensive projects you can undertake in your home. Fact-The sink is without question the singular focal point of the kitchen. Almost every time you go in the kitchen, regardless of what the reason, you will ultimately end up at the sink if only to grab a glass of water. Fact- If you have your heart set o a 10" sink and settle for an 8" sink it will forever be a source of irritation and contention, one which you will confront dozens of times a day. Fact-If you are changing all the cabinets you will already have easy access to the wall and changing the drain line is no big deal. Fact-If you install the 8" sink now, then later decide you really want the 10" sink it could prove nearly cost prohibitive to make the necessary changes to the drain lines. Now let us consider what would be required to lower the drain while you have access to the wall. In a best case scenario when the fixture arm enters the wall it is connected to a vertical line by means of a sanitary tee. In that case it would be very easy to cut the line, lower the tee to the desired level and reconnect the line. In a worst case scenario the waste arm enters the wall then turns horizontal and runs through the wall to a point were it connects to a vertical stack. The question then becomes how far does the horizontal line travel through the wall? Under the IRC a kitchen sink drain line is an 1-1/2" line and it is allowed to run a maximum of 6' from the trap weir to the vent opening. Allowing that there is generally about 12" from the wall to the trap that means that the line could run up to 5' horizontally in the wall. Under the UPC we are required to use a 2" diameter drain line but the total developed length from trap weir to vent opening of a 2" fixture arm is limited to only 5' so we could anticipate a maximum of 4" horizontally in the wall. In all probability the portion of the wall that you would need to open up will most likely be covered by the cabinets when all done, therefore when you open the sheet rock it would only require a simple patch with one coat of mud & tape to prevent bugs from entering. Not a big deal here. The question then becomes how much should you lower the line? From your preliminary calculations you determined that you need approximately 2" however, from my experience it is much easier if we allow ourselves plenty of room, therefore I would lower the arm at least 4 or perhaps 5". Keep in mind that code will allow up to 12" vertical drop from the finished sink opening to the water level in the trap.

Hi Kathy, I remember responding to one of your previous posts regarding the Performa sink. I have the 1-3/4 sink with an Insinkerator Evolution Essential Pro installed under the smaller bowl. This model is not the compact version. It is crowded under my sink but I also have a trash pullout there too. The plumber who did the work did not have any issues getting it to fit. I was there the day of the install and he didn't complain about anything. The garbage disposal works fine. The sinks drain fine and the dishwasher gets the dishes clean as a whistle. My sink is located in an island but regardless the drain has to be the right height in the cabinet just as it would have to be if it exited out the back of a cabinet and into wall. From the middle of the disposal opening to the cabinet floor is 12 inches by my quick measuring. From the middle of the exit drain to the cabinet floor is approx. 10 inches. So while it doesn't look lower in the pictures it is. The exit drain could be lowered but since you cabinet and counter tops are already in place I am sure it would be problematic. I know that we had to open wall and lower exit drains in a bathroom remodel. Here are a couple pictures. Hope you can tell how the two sink drains are connected. You can email me if you would like me to send some additional photos. Hope you can get it too work out. The only thing that a plumber friend of ours commented on about the installation was that the drains on the two sinks should have been metal not plastic. He said that the plastic ones tend to develop leaks after a few years. I am not going to lose sleep worrying about a possible future leak.

Thanks everyone for your comments. I did find out there is room to raise the door. After removing the trim and a little drywall, I found that there is about two inches between the top of the door and the header. So maybe rasing the door is a option, we will see. Although I haven't decided what to do as yet, the deck is over 700 square feet and I wont be removing and rebuilding it over the 1/2 inch difference between deck boards and door threshold. I'm sure I can find a solution that satisfies both the safety and cosmetic concerns. That said... thank you again for the comments and I am still open to any creative solutions someone may have to offer.