mairin - I guess there's a chance they'd mess up the finished floor if they did that now? Anyway, I wanted the newel just 1 step up, same as it would be if we had a bullnose step and volute/turnout, they could still notch it out to snug up to 2nd tread. But 1st guy didn't want to do that, wanted permnission in writing from building inspector (and now 9 months later I'm even more reluctant to go asking), 2nd guy never got back to me after coming out for a quote and nodding his head yes the whole time, and my cousin who has been doing all the trim in my house (and building new window jambs and stools where the builder didn't do them right) says that he doesn't want to do it, even if we put blocking under the first tread. I guess when they're on the floor they actually are attached to a joist? I showed him pics of crazyhouse6's newel and he didn't think it would hold up to lateral forces (swinging), though it was fine for someone just pulling straight on it. So what do you think of my newel options? Which should I choose? It will be 2 weeks to get the oak contemporary newel that I posted first. The 2.5 x 3.5 blocks of cherry are here, just need to get cousin to cut and route them, I can put clear finish on and get them up but I don't know how they look with oak rail. My favorite is still the vertical volute with a newel somewhere near the bottom, but I haven't even thought of balusters (BC newel and rail with oak balusters?), and I need to find someone to install it.

Just checking on the cherry. Can't say I'm too fond of oak myself. There are few instances where balustrade removal and replacement work out too well unless you're disassembling the stair re-milling and reassembling it. Even then unless you are talking about a stair that's made out of a rare or exotic lumber that would exceed the cost of the time and labor of doing so It is not often the best practice. I would still use care taking it apart and use it to make something else. How solid are the newels, are they loose surface mount or do they go into the floor? Iron is nice. You can either use a metal rail or wood on top of it. For a long while iron/steel balusters were a bit less expensive than wood but now they are comparable. The wood rail will usually be less expensive than the metal and easier to install. Newel posts can be either as wood newels match the iron quite well. A few of the things I was mentioning about not being correct in the drawings were the balusters and newels. The newel is an Arcways product whose turning is sized for the 30" rail heights of days long gone by. Note the extremely tall base. The balusters are StaiParts Inc. made for the same. The upper turnings don't even come close to matching the rake of the stair which is common for too many stair part manufacturers. Even with the stair and balcony rail set to the highest height in order to use a closer matching baluster combination to make it less noticeable. Arcways however does have some fabulous rails and fittings, checks their small orders for matching, offers cherry as a stock item and will sell directly to homeowners. They also carry iron and steel balusters. I believe OakPoint sells direct and Crown sells through Brosco/Brockway Smith, 84 Lumber and even a few Lowe's locations as well as numerous stair companies. Use the dealer locator on their website. Both have a good selection, have cherry as stock on some of their profiles, good quality and a product line that looks correct for todays codes. "Solid" or one piece treads sound nice but they are not really what you want unless they have relief milling on the underside and even then it's not much of a guarantee against checking or cupping especially if they are only 3/4 thick". How will the 1 1/4"+ overhang hold up? Construction adhesive and a finish nail through the top of the finish isn't going to last too long and will squeak like crazy after a while. A typical tread is 1 1/16" thick and will be made of three to 5 pieces. Cherry treads are most often made "in house" from random width/length material and a good stair shop will cut out any sap wood, match the grain and the leading piece will be well beyond the riser. Engineered treads are also available but like everything they have their pros and cons and I think the cons still outweigh the pros. The open left end should have a return nosing mitered into the front left corner and extend past the next riser by the same distance as the overhang with a scotia below. That is the dark piece I am showing on the edge of the tread in the image above. If you go through your phone book or search for stair companies or stair manufacturers and not stair part manufacturers you should find a few. If you call a stair parts manufacturer they will direct you to someone in your area that they sell to. I was looking for the dimension of the face of riser to face of riser or the run. I'm assuming 7" is the height? Floor to floor height. From the top of the plywood where the upper stair lands to the top of the vinyl on the landing and from the top of the vinyl on the landing to the top of the vinyl(?) in the basement. If the vinyl is flat I would agree with keeping it in place if the glue has failed and it's lifting remove it and in either scenario use a quality felt paper underlayment. Did you already place the order with the millwork shop? How soon do you need to get this done? I really think it would be in your best interest to explore all avenues and plan out the whole project before you buy anything. As Casey noted above it is often cheaper to remove all and replace. It would take you less time to install the two units than it would to even do one single tread.

no. if you prefer, use a shellac. but I'd prefer the gray primer only because your black paint will go on better and have better adhesion. (you can tint the primer to any color. just have them add some black to it) Or, use the spray primer. it's a lot easier but you will have to tape off everything w/plastic and wear a mask. Always remember after any primer or shellac, you must fine sand w/a 220 or 320 sandpaper. then take a damp rag and wipe everything down very well. use an air hose to blow off any corners if you have to. Now you can paint.

Thanks Patricia! The floor was picked out first - it's bamboo. The white oak actually was the lightest wood choice we went with to try and stain it to match the floors as much as possible. The bamboo stairs would be a custom item and it wasn't in our budget so that was the reasoning. The honey oak stairs are the original stairs in this house - I just posted a photo to show before. I think the white oak is a closer fit than the honey oak. The tile in the entry way is original - we haven't made any decision in that room yet. I was hoping to get opinions on the shade of stain to go with for the stairs. And I'll check into the cable railing - do I need to even worry about meeting a code?