That's what I use for my cages and it works great. I got it by the roll and counted 10 squares and then cut it, rolled it up and secured it with either wire or rolled the remaining wire around itself. I got mine for free at a new home construction site where they were doing concrete work. I have about 12 now and I'm always looking to make a few more. They work great for Tomatoes.....they also work great for cucumbers, beans peppers or any type of vine type plant. After you make them into circles you can cut them in half to add to the height to other cages making them taller if you need to. They even work good to hold a trash bag when you are doing yard work. On a side note make sure you wear gloves, safety glasses and long pants and shirt because when it springs back after you cut it it can/will puncture your skin. A lesson I learned the hard way after the 1st one I built. After that one what I did was leave the 2 ends to cut last. Seriously folks, this material is great but it can hurt you even if your careful. ***WEAR SAFETY GLASSES AT ALL TIMES WHEN YOU WORK WITH THIS MATERIAL***

Yes! When my flimsey storebought wire cages collapsed under such tremendous bounty, I did the smart thing and built the cheap, easy, super-strong trellises detailed in Mel Bartholomew's Square Foot Garden website and book: Electrical conduit is simply a metal pipe roughly 3/4 inch in diameter that is cheap at 25 cents per foot. You get two lengths about 8 foot, and one length about 4 foot, and two screw-on conduit elbows. Or else if you have a conduit bender and don't need to take it apart for easy storage, just bend conduit into a 4'X8' rectangle. Then you get two lengths of rebar (also cheap) about 2 to 3 feet long, and drive into the ground where you want your trellis, with either a hammer, or as in my case, just pushing with your hand (I have very soft, deep soil) until it's halfway buried. Then slide the open legs of your conduit onto the rebar, to hold it upright. Then get nylon netting from the garden dept. or a nursery, that has 7 inch square holes. These are easy to reach through. Then it's a matter of cutting it to fit your frame, and tying it on by each pair of cut netting holes. Use a square knot, not a granny knot, so it won't slip, and stretch netting as tight as you can so it will hold weight without sagging. Done! This netting will not rot, and will hold any amount of weight... if you use steel fence posts and have firm enough ground, you can even grow pumpkins or melons up that trellis and the netting will support them, and the pumpkin vine will grow stronger to hold the fruit unassisted, if you let it. This method also cuts down on disease because your tomatoes are more open to the air and light, than they are when you use cages. Just be sure to weave the flexible growing tip of the tomato plant in and out of the trellis where you want it to grow, because if you let it get mature and then try to train it, it can break.

Do you still have these? If so I have a number of young tomato plants growing and could definitely use the cages. I'm out of work and trying to save money wherever possible.

Tom, those are some nice tomato cages! I am sure somebody will be happy to have them. Well see Silvia I may be interested depending on your location.... Where in Florida are you? I'm on Merritt Island. FOD, guess when I added "Sunset 26" I lost St Pete in my header...back to St Pete Z10, Heat 10 - no Sunset 26. Even at $16 per double cage I doubt you'll want to make the trip over here for $320 worth of cages. ...and then reused them for epis after watching this video Carol, these are 3/16" wire, much too heavy to bend that easily....