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Design Dilemma Kitchens

Kitchen cabinet layout dilemma

last year

I just moved into a new home and the stove that came with the home is very old and hardly works and needs to be replaced. my problem is that the stove space is for a 24 inch stove mounted and i am wanting a 30 inch wide stove (not mounted). what can i do to make it fit?

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Comments (13)

Whatever
last year
If you have 6” on the side of cabinet you can move that cabinet to the wall to get 30”.
If you don’t have 6” then take out one cabinet and replace with smaller cabinet.
Or just leave it the way it is
PRO
MDLN
last year
Replace the base cabinets with appropriate sized upgrade - drawer base cabinets.
Mrs Robbo thanked MDLN
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Buehl- Thank you for the feedback! I didn’t know that the Hood should be wider. I will have to do more research on the different sizes and specs and the price differential. I’ll also have to look at changing some wall cabinet dimensions to accommodate a bigger hood. I believe the manufacturer (Schrock) does allow for modifications to the stiles on wall cabinets for that purpose you mentioned. The frame of the cabinet is 1.5” with a door overlay of 1.25”. How much more “space” is needed? I feel like another .5” of stile should suffice? Especially if I get the special closing hinges that prevent the door from opening to 90deg..? I am aware the upper diagonal cabinet does generate wasted space, but I prefer a staggered cabinet look to them being all even. Could using a 90deg cut EZ reach corner at a 42” compared to the 36” height for the other wall cabinets look ok? Want to maintain the staggered look if possible. I am not sure if the manufacturer needs more wall space allotted for the bottom corner cabinet. I will have to research further. I never realized 12” cabinets aren’t “useful” in the sense of practicality. I will look at alternate layouts that don’t involve single 12” cabinets. I will also look at combing the 12/24” cabinets. I was caught up on each door should appear similar (~12”) that forgot the practicality and functionality of them. Fridge Surround - I initially had two tall end panels that were L shaped with the front face 1.5” wide and 24” deep on each end of the 36” fridge wall cabinet. That would have given me 39” of wall space for the fridge. I also had the notion that the fridge was going to stick out of the surround. I’m not sure what else I can or should do with the fridge placement. The island is how the stick builder’s floor place is laid out. I think I would prefer a 8ft rectangular island. I have never given much thought to the “prep” aspect. I’ve never had two separate sinks growing up and neither has my wife. And the tiny kitchen we have now has made us use to the fact we use our sink for both cleaning dishes and prepping food. It is something we will have to look into. Attached is my floor plan I’ve been working on. Again I am no designer/draftsman. I have literally taken a basic floor plan from one of the local stick builders and tried to modify it within the physical layout of their plan i.e I’m using their dimensions for each room as starting points. I’m basically trying to see if I can take their plan and modify it to where I can get the layout I want of the cabinets without physically altering the foundation and walls and what not. Please feel free to point out any obvious mistakes/errors I’ve made. It really is appreciated!
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Comments (1)
Overall nice plan, and excellent solution for the fridge and angled wall--you did your research :). Symmetry seems important to you, but there are areas of concern. To improve the function, I would move the sink and DW to the right (you'll need a return panel for the DW, to support the counter top), and store dishes in the tall cabinet on the angled wall. That move will give you a wider prep area. Storing dishes in the tall cabinet will allow a helpers to unload the DW, or gather dishes to set the table, without entering the prep zone. Put a trash pull-out on the end toward the cooktop, where it will be convenient to all zones. Other concerns: I wonder if there is enough step-back space in front of the ovens, so your backside is not up against the cabinets across the aisle when an oven door is open. Assuming the lockers are in the entry space, what is to the left? Will that be a busy traffic aisle? You will have a lot of countertop on the cooktop wall, which will basically be wasted space, and probably a drop zone. Maybe moving the oven to that end would be better--you'd have the space you need to open the oven doors, and it wouldn't be in the entry to the left. Put an appliance garage or other tall cabinet where the ovens are drawn. Then make the drawers on each side of the cooktop wider, for storage of pots and pans and other bakeware. Cabinets sizes might need to be adjusted to those available in your cabinet manufacturer's line. I'm not sure I understand the 12" and 18" overhangs for the island. The NKBA recommends a minimum of 15" for comfort at counter height, so your island can be shallower, or you can include another row of shallow cabinets. The cabs on the ends could be pull-outs for easier access: NKBA guidelines New to Kitchens? Read me first.
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herbflavor
last year
last modified: last year
have you ever had base drawers.... even ikea to meet budget needs as this is just a partial project...worth it. you might be able to transfer the items from the wall cabinets into the drawers as they hold so much more .....and then clear the wall and explore a good ventilating hood above your new stove . then some cute tile backsplash with a shelf or two on the wall. youd love the result for a small wall that can be achieved .
6 Via Aragon - San Antonio Parade of Homes · More Info
plf12652
last year
Budget? That will determine how much you can do.
latifolia
last year
In Europe, 24" (60 cm) stoves are very common. I cooked on one for years and it was fine. Just look for one with a big oven. Get the base bit removed and get a free-standing stove.
blueskysunnyday
last year
Keep in mind that with a wider range, you will technically need a wider hood.
PRO
Lali HOUZZ
last year
Hello Sir, how to move a cabinet in 30"

Thanks in advance
millworkman
last year
"Hello Sir, how to move a cabinet in 30""

@Lali HOUZZ, what?
PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
last year
Can we please hear back from the OP before going crazy. IMO we need a budget and some answers to a few questions.
Mrs Robbo
Original Author
last year
There is a little bit of room to move the drawer a few inches but i but i believe theyre all connected. i love the drawer cabinet idea of getting two smaller ones on each side. i have a small budget, i would like to keep it as cheap as possible since i have to purchase a new stove and dishwasher
Whatever
last year
Ok the cheapest alternative is to buy the 24” stove.

remove the dropin stove cut the bottom peice and slide in stove. a handyman should be able to do this.

if you must have a 30” (and i agree with person on the 24” stove - probably fine for most of us) take out one bottom cabinet and the corresponding top cabinet (this is because you dont want it to hang over stove) cut countertop depending on what it us. buy a lower and top cabinet or maybe open shelving and drawers lower. If you cant cut counter top get butcher block or somehing that you can put hot pots on.

to remove cabinets cut through any caulk unscrew the cabinet and if you are working alone support the upper cabinet when you unscrew it. again a handyman can do all this
herbflavor
last year
last modified: last year
you can figure out how much you can spend on drawer cabs......there are varying qualities and features. heavy glides/ deeper for pots/pans...etc...vs. just standard drawers. did you know butcher block counters..say Ikea quality in your [non wet zone there] can be extremely cost effective/ look good/ and easy w occasional oiling???? you can paint the walls and skip any shelves/cabinets until you figure out what is needed....instead investigate a hood installation which is always an improvement for the long term. Some have no fear of butcher block even w a sink area .....but your separate wall w no sink makes this compelling for counter top savings !!!
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M Miller
last year
last modified: last year
Expanding on what @blueskysunnyday and @User wrote, the Code requirement that there not be wood cabinets (i.e. combustibles) above the range means that if the OP were to change to a 30" range, she would need to change the upper cabinets as well. Beautiful photos posted on this thread, but I think that a 30" range creates budgetary issues. It would be great if new drawer base cabinets can fit in the OP's budget.

If you can swing it, I'd try to get a stainless steel range and dishwasher, not the black you have. Black appliances absorb light, while stainless steel reflects light, so it will brighten the space. Don't worry if your fridge is black; stainless steel goes with everything. If you go on the ajmadison website, it has really good sorting features for a 24" electric range. I would not buy from them because I hear their customer service is not good, but the website sorting features are useful.

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