EVen in new construction, this isn't going to be exactly an inexpensive option. You have to plan the whole system for "worst case scenario" rather than the more common everyday usage. A tankless water heater that only supplies one or two of your MB shower features while the tanked heater supplies the others might be the best way to go to give you your once a week indulgence. However, it won't be an inexpensive indulgence. A tankless able to supply enough heat rise to run 2 shower features at once will run you around $1200-$2000. It will need to have it's own separate supply line for the gas it will consume. As Antss said, you're talking 199BTU+. And although a gas tankless unit is smaller than a conventional tank unit and can conceivable be located in a master closet location close to the master bath, there are still some pricy requirements about their venting needs that need to be considered. THe double wall stainless vent pipe isn't cheap, and if you have a long way to go to penetrate the roof, then you may have just incurred another 1K of expense for the project. And there's the additional labor for the install, probably another $500-1K, depending on complexity. If your home doesn't have natural gas available, then electric on demand units are also available, but your home's electrical requirements just doubled, and you have to factor in a much larger service drop from the pole in the beginning as well as a larger service panel installed. Only your utility company and electrician can tell you how much that will add to your expense. The biggest bonus to electrical is that they do not require venting, and thus are easier to place in the home. However, they really do not save you but about 1-3% over a standard tanked electric heater, so it will be difficult to recoup the much higher initial up front costs without being in the home for 30 years. A better choice for someone who has an electrical only home would simply be an additional 80 gallon tank dedicated feeding those 2 extra features that you only turn on on Friday night and then turn off on Saturday after your shower. An 80 gallon tank with a 9 year warranty would run you around $800 here, plus the extra pipe needed to do the runs, you might only be looking at an additional 1K in systems materials to have your shower---PLUS the cost of the controls and the trims and valves for those features. You can figure out the additional operating costs of running your once a week shower from your utility rates and water consumption rates of the features you are considering. Other considerations to having such a shower would be the ventilation needed to ensure that the additional moisture was correctly removed from the home. With a vent fan needing to run for such a long period due to the long shower times, a cold climate bath might need an ERV unit attached to keep from exhausting so much conditioned air to the exterior. ON the whole, you're talking about adding around 5K extra to your project for a once a week indulgence. NOt a lot of money up front, and as I said, you'd need to look at the utility costs to be able to determine operating costs. But once a week shouldn't be onerous unless you live in a water restricted environment where water is expensive or tightly regulated. Unfortunately, more and more of "regular" America are encountering water restrictions. Much of the South was under water restrictions a couple of years ago and Lake Lanier outside Atlanta was almost dry. Check into your municipalites water sources and the possibiltiy of them encountering issues during drought times if you want to really be clear of any ecological impact of your decision. But, the good thing about putting just the "feature sprays" on a separate supply is that you don't have to use them during water restrictions if your area encounters them. Your everyday shower heads are the ones tied to your home's main water heating supply, and those can be "ultra low flow" heads if need be.

Our contractor ordered 6 new Marvin wood double hungs on our behalf. We discussed and he wrote in his notes that we wanted 6 over 1's - true divided lights. In error, he ordered 6 over 6's. They came in, he installed them when we were at work, I came home, saw them and knew immediately they were wrong. To help find out the cost of what was involved before I spoke to the contractor the next day, I called Marvin and asked loads of questions and found out that it was going to cost somewhere around $2200 to remedy. We then talked with our contractor and he volunteered that because the error was his, he would get us new lower sashes. He ate the cost. If you reject the SDL's, the rep and his company will have to eat it. However, depending on how Weathershield operates, the rep might be able to return them for some amount of credit. That's an unknown you won't be able to find out about. However, I'd call Weathershield's customer service directly and see what you can find out from them...a little more info can only help you in this one. If you don't like them, and they are not what you want for your house, reject them. You will cringe every time you look out your windows.

I doubt they ever had the capabilities to make the true divided lights. Are the gas/argon energy efficient. If so I just don't think they can make true divided light windows effciently. Each light would be its own little window with its own seal and frame. If divided lights, not simulated,is what you truely wanted and are going to accept them anyway I would have them do an extreme deep discount, in writting, before you let them install them. What are they going to do with them? My brother in-law has purchased the mis-order windows for about $100-200 each from warehouses selling these rejected/mis-ordered windows. Did they take a large down payment from you? Is it written in the contract re the true divided lights? I have a feeling the salesperson wasn't mis-informed just not telling the truth to you no matter how "nice" they were. Sorry, I don't know about pricing but I doubt there are many places that do true divided lights unless they specialize in restoration. My sister had anderson windows with the wood that was inside the house on the windows, not between the glass. They look more like the true divided glass but the snap into place. She can take them off to clean windows on the inside but is a real pain and has taken them off most of her windows(was a new house) Sorry, I think your salesperson was not being truthful or is a complete idiot.

I'll add this then: Durock? It's an approved substrate for any of the surface applied membranes. Sure it generates dust when cut with a power saw or angle grinder. But if you score and snap with a blade? It's pretty clean. It is heavy when compared to foam...but you'll be installing a half-dozen sheets max. Foam board? Sure, it's even lighter in weight. Here's all I recommend. Find the foam you want to use. Choose a membrane, example, Hydroban sheet membrane. Then call Laticrete's tech department and ask what thinset/adhesive they recommend for adhering their membrane to the EPS/XPS/foam of your choice. If you get a solid answer, by all means move onward with the project! If not, repeat for each foam/membrane/adhesive combo you can think of. Honestly, and again...I'm a guy who thoroughly appreciates the DIYer mentality...I built my own houses, boats, kayaks, canoes, airplane, swimming pool, I've drilled my own wells for water, I've done a couple of frame off car resto's...all solo. Trust me, I embrace the DIYer mentality. But showers? Here, on this forum, I do worry about compromised showers. Because houses are the most valuable investment most people on these forums will ever make, and water damage from a shower can just muck things up in tremendous fashion. Plus, it's near impossible to properly repair a shower short of tearing it out and rebuilding it. If your primary concern is weight and dust? Then I'll wave the bugger flag. And I'm waving it in an attempt to help you out. Just buy USG foam board and be done with it. Hydroban sheet is maybe $1.25 a foot? Kerdi about $2. Foam board? Maybe .40 cents. Adhesive? Who knows. Best case, you're saving yourself $1 a sqft by trying to make your own versus buying USG's product. For a shower of your size, that's maybe $75 you're saving. On an expenditure of how much for the entire shower? It's a fairly small percentage. Again...I THOROUGHLY embrace the DIY spirit. But with you being motivated by weight and dust? I'd spend the extra $75 to get the USG foam board. Lightweight. No dust. And you KNOW it's going to work. Plus you'll avoid the pain of having to lug a heavy and dusty bag of thinset home and the pain of trying to thinset or adhere the membrane of your choice to the foam of your choice with the adhesive of your choice on your own. Just my opinion. Worth the price paid. Good luck!! Seriously. Whichever way to proceed, I'd love to hear how things turn out.