It seems to me that with an island, avoiding head whacking on one side by shifting the hood increases the chance of whacking on the other side. I would vote for more height (although that leads to the question of how tall is the maximum guest). More height of course means greater potential dispersion of the cooking effluent, and higher flow rates will only partially make up for this increased height. (They will, of course, improve the rate of flushing the house of odor.) You may be at the point of having to look carefully at the burner layout versus your cooking style to see just what overhang you will have for the worst effluent offenders. If at the new height using the burner you would use you still have hood overhang by at least 22 degrees half angle from the pan edge, there should be good capture in undisturbed air. You also need to consider what other causes of effluent disturbance you have. If you have heat, A/C, or make-up air registers anywhere near the hood, the air may already be disturbed causing effluent to miss the hood. If people are walking about it will disturb the effluent and cause some to miss the hood. The amount that is disturbed out of the capture zone by these factors can be nonlinearly related to hood height, so it is not obvious just how performance will suffer with more height. One pallitive I've considered is the option of hanging temporary curtains (plexiglass, say) from the sides and "back" of the hood when serious cooking is ongoing. Or as a hazard warning a non-flamable streamer hung from the hood corners when guests are present might help. Odor is never going to be fully eliminated using normal residential ventilation techniques because no matter how close to the cooktop hoods are mounted they do not adequately treat effluent released from ovens. A hood over a range isn't too bad because the oven at least is below the hood, although well below the recommended height when the door is open. Wall ovens, even with an exhaust ventilation register in the ceiling above them, will still expand effluent into the general kitchen air before it reaches the register. kas

I have the same issue. I'm experimenting w/ different options. One set of cabinets has an LED tape, which is virtually flat; the other has the LuxBar, which is .46" in depth (or is it height??), so either would work for you. Here is a link that might be useful: LuxBar

I took a little road trip this weekend and happened to notice a fence that made me think of your post. It took some time finding what the style was called, but I think this is similar. It is not solid on the bottom, but has a second set of pickets that are so close together, nothing from the bad neighbors could blow through. And the advantage to the open pickets is a well aimed leaf blower will clear your side of the fence and will simultaneously blow their leaves away from your fence without you having to move off your property. I completely understand not wanting to access the fence or a hedge from their side. I have neighbors like that, too. Ugh! From what I can see it's called a puppy picket. I know this is taller than what you want, but this is the idea. Another example (I don't care for the top portion of this fence, but you can see the idea of the double pickets at the bottom, with more open pickets at the top). I am linking because the pic is large and I can't seem to reduce it. Here is a link that might be useful: puppy picket This post was edited by olychick on Wed, Nov 5, 14 at 11:17

This is the only entry, so you don’t see it until you get all the way up the driveway Shady. Rain is the reason for needing an overhang, Hu. We get windy rain off the bay. The door on the cottage started out as a Dutch door but we had to have it converted to a regular door. The rain was blowing right in where the top and bottom halves of the door met.