Thank you pllog! According to my admittedly limited research, white subway tiles were primarily what was used during 1913 (not colored tiles just yet), or else white or cream-colored wainscoting. I know the colorful tile was used on fireplace faces though, as is the case on ours - but I think the whole sterile kitchen and bathroom look was going on in 1913 (?). I know my house originally had it cause not only is 2x6 white subway tile in the original bathroom upstairs, but the previous owners, who I am friends with, remember it having been in the house at one time. The previous owner now in her 80's moved in with her parents in the '40's when she was a teenager. There was only one family that lived in the house before them, which is kind of neat to know. I'd love to find out more about them someday if possible. All that said, if I had the time further to obsess (I'm already taking LOADS of time away from my kids to obsess over every detail that I am already!), and the eye/confidence/creativity, or a designer, and the money, I'd do something much more fun and much more "me" in a NY heartbeat. But alas, I don't. Maybe someday. The following cut/paste link is to absolutely inspiring backsplashes, which you'd probably love: http://finishedbacksplashes2.blogspot.com/ It would be impossible for me to do if the tile were to get up to $100/SF. How did you come up w/ that calculation? Oh dear - I'd better do the math again! I was told that by going to a fabricator with big machinery, it wouldn't take that long at all for a back splash my size - but that was just one person who said that; he could have been wrong. One consideration for a backup plan for me has been white or off-white minibrick. I think with a non-matching grout - e.g. a noncommittal but darker sand color (sand having both tan and grey in it?), all those little lines would be more interesting w/ the stainless than the bigger subway tile (or, maybe that would also be the case w/ standard 2x6 tile w/ darker grout?). I wish I could find the link I've lost to ceramic minibrick (if that's the word for it) that's attractive to me. I imagine they didn't have that size in 1913 though (does anyone know?) but it's still a nice classic look. If I find it on my other computer I'll post it! I've looked at Thassos which does seem too white. The in-person samples of calcutta are too grey from a distance (I don't want it to match my stainless counter so precisely) but yes I have time to keep looking. I also still pine for the Walker Zanger lightly crackled and glazed 2x6 tile I was all excited about when I thought I would do a honed black counter. haven't ruled that out completely, but it's $25/SF. Thanks!

I'm assuming the weight is factored in. We are using a popular, high-end kitchen designer. Then again, is there an issue with using a slab? The kitchen plan has two sides/walls with an island - so an L shape. The side with the range and upper cabinets will be completely covered by the marble slab but the other side/wall of the kitchen, which is directly across from the island, doesn't have cabinets and we would only be extending the marble up to be even with the end of the cabinets on the range wall. I guess one of my issues is I don't know if it is worth in to spend that much when the main accent wall is at an angle, rather than in direct view of the island seating and dining room table. Also, I think I would be saving a ton by using even a high end marble subway tile.

I would ask the displaying shop if when they received the tile; What percentage of it came in cracked or damaged. As with any tile it's normal to see some damage on some of the tile due to shipping. Depending on what they say it might discourage you or encourage you to order more then needed above the extra so you can continue with the install. Consider too the turn around time for this tile too. In case you have to re-order pieces how long will the vendor take to ship a week to a few weeks? Are you willing to wait for replacement pieces? Mother of pearl tile is usually very fragile and depending on how the sample was shipped it may have occurred through transit. Call the vendor to see what they suggest.

For starters You selected material that is extremely difficult to install for a first project. Actually difficult for many contractors. You plan to purchase a wet saw that is junk and will make things more difficult. You want a moving tray for mosaics. Spend a bit more now. It's worth it. I strongly suggest the Porta cable for a small saw. This link will give you a demo. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=PORTER-CABLE+PCE980+Wet+Tile+Saw+video&&view=detail&mid=C85BA5FCA3572B55A79DC85BA5FCA3572B55A79D&&FORM=VRDGAR&ru=%2Fvideos%2Fsearch%3Fq%3DPORTER-CABLE%2BPCE980%2BWet%2BTile%2BSaw%2Bvideo%26%26FORM%3DVDVVXX Yes you will cut individual pieces around the outlet unless you plan on purchasing a angle grinder with diamond blade also. Don't forget to notch for screws. You need a lot of wedges. A good rubbing stone or diamond pad as all cuts need to be smoothed prior to installation. Determine which type of sealer you prefer and apply 2 coats prior to grouting without getting the sealer into the grout joints. How will the ends be finished? I urge you to hire a professional for this project as it will test your patience. If the material was purchased at a box store most pros won't touch it. Odds are the quality of material will also add to the difficulty factor. If you go for it I wish you luck.