Rick, Thank you! I have already noticed some small differences. The first one that grew developed a reddish hue on the stem. I believe there are only one or two more with this trait right now. Bill, I plan on keeping 4 of them. And selling the rest, once I see them flower...which means it may be 2 or 3 years before that happens! I will also most likely trade them or give them away c: What are your plans? Which blooms will yours have? My blooms will look similar to these or a variation of these two...

Just to play catch-up, here is a picture of my plant today. As you can see two more pods have opened with one more waiting in the wings! Got lots of seed and can't use all of them, so if you have a warm (70F or better) to grow them, my email is: LASSERH@HOTMAIL.COM I planted several this past Monday and even in my cool greenhouse (64F nights/68F ~ 70F days) several have germinated.

Greenjay, thanks, glad you like my efforts so far, my fav is #3. Bikerdoc, hope someone from the USA comes in to help you find a good seed supplier as I'm from the UK. As for the germinating media I tend to use a 50/50 mix of cactus and general purpose potting compost. The seeds need to be soaked in warmish water for 4 hours or so before lying them on the surface of your pots and covering with just a sprinkling of mix. Keep them moist but not saturated and in the mid 20'sC. If fresh, they should pop in a matter of a few days, mine come through in 5/7 usually. They grow quickly once through and need to be kept moist for several weeks after sprouting. When around and inch or so high and with a couple of sets of true leaves I re-pot mine individually into 30% cactus mix, 30% potting compost and 30% horticultural grit...it needs to be very fast draining. I let mine dry out before I water again which can be every other day even here in the UK! Give them as much light & warmth as poss. Keep them growing year round for 2 years if poss...I find young seedlings don't go dormant anyway and the bigger the plant is going into winter, the more reserves it has to go through a dormant period. When older/bigger, in summer treat as tropicals...ie.warm and watered often but remember, don't let them sit in water or get waterlogged or the roots rot. In winter keep drier like a cactus....if they go dormant and loose leaves hardly water them at all. Cold and/or constantly wet and soggy feet are killers, the roots and caudex can rot easily. As for root pruning, well I'm not the one to tell you much about that as I haven't got to that stage with mine...yet! Good luck, hope this helps, it's what I do with mine anyway. Josh, thanks for the heads up on the root pruning... I will certainly now wait a while before I chop them as I'd certainly like them to put on some more growth yet. Regards, Gill from the UK.

Marco, Please don't feel overwhelmed. Here is a link so you at least know what Dyna Grow is: http://www.spraysmarter.com/catalog/product/view/id/34216/.html?gclid=CLvomqOlv80CFVBhfgod2Z8Ohw Here is a quickie on fertilization that I recently posted on another thread: Adeniums should be fertilized via bottom watering weekly at 1/4 strength (or less) with one or both of two formulations, in alternating weekly applications: NPK 20-20-20 / 14-14-14 / 10-10-10 for leaf and overall root development and NPK where the P formulation is higher, such as NPK 6-12-6 (tomato food), for bloom development. I use 20-20-20 once a month and tomato food the other three weeks of the month at 1/4 strength. Never splash the leaves with fertilizer ... it will burn the leaves. In terms of all the rest: 1. Get some fast draining cactus soil and mix it 1/2 & 1/2 with perlite. Home Depot sells perlite in large bags. I used to get smaller bags and a great cactus mix at my local florist shop. 2. The reason why you should never use an oversized pot is that all that extra soil will stay wet longer, increasing the chance of rot. You will do best to leave about 1.5 inches of free space all the way around the fattest part of the caudex to allow for growth. 3. The longer the roots are underground, the bigger they will grow. Place a little more than half of that baby under soil. Water in and leave it for a week. Don't fertilize right away. 4. After a week, stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil to determine whether it needs watering. Only water when the soil feels dry 2" down. When you do water, water thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes. Never let the pot sit on a saucer of water. Usually, once a week during the summer is sufficient. However, it depends on several factors, including climate, pot, soil, etc. Clay pots are great because they breathe, but require more watering. Test the soil with your finger until you can determine the correct watering schedule for your particular tree. 5. Move slowly into direct sunlight over the course of 2 weeks. Give it 2 weeks because we don't want to shock the little guy. 6. Fertilize at 1/4 strength or less. Never fertilize a dry plant. Water one day then bottom fertilize the next. Try to get a schedule going. Most of us do this on the weekend when we have more time. *** Another common rule of thumb is to never water on cloudy, rainy days. The reasoning is you want the heat of the sun to evaporate some of the water so the substrate doesn't stay excessively moist.