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Building a Home Appliances Design Dilemma

New Construction: vent range hood exhaust thru roof before shingles?

last year

last modified: last year

We are building a house and are about to put the shingles on the roof deck. My range hood insert will be vented through the roof straight up above it. I know it needs to be as straight up vertically as it can be. I do not have the vent hood yet; it is on order. Is it better to cut the hole in the roof and put the vent cap on before they put shingles on? Can this be done without having the actual vent hood to measure where the duct work will be? Will the specs be sufficient? Or should we just wait and cut a hole in the roof after the shingles are done? What is better to avoid leaks etc?

Thank you all in advance.

Featured Answer

User

last year

Of course you put in the 10” duct, and flash it properly, before the shingles.

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Comments (9)

M
Original Author
last year
HELP NEEDED PLEASE …Could someone please advise me on above post….roofers are coming SATURDAY
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Thanks, I can picture a "T-Top" vent. However, do they have a damper or screen. We are in a cold climate and squirels and birds are a concern. The manufacture for the range hood calls for their roof vent with damper and screen (Broan 634). I purchased one but may return it if there is a better option. Take a look at the link and tell me if you think it will last and maybe suggest a way to secure the screen in there better (it just is held into place without screw or glue, squirel could push it thru maybe. ) Here is a link that might be useful: broan roof vent
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It's usually much more expensive to create a new route (i.e. through the attic) than to use an existing one, UNLESS tapping into the old duct means you have to use 10' of sheet metal. The most efficient venting and least expensive option would be to vent through your brick wall. If your patio is there and you use it a lot, you might want to chooses the exact location gingerly. I hope that 400 cfm is adequate for your current range because you probably won't have to worry about make-up-air at that level (check your local code), but you generally choose cfm by your range BTUs. As you plan to switch to induction, you can afford to under estimate.
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Whatever you vent is going to be where the vent lets out. Therefore, the moisture and smells are all going out that hole. My house was built without any duct at all (along with some other weirdnesses). I was lucky that I could vent onto a side yard where the services and meters are. It is also the only outdoors path into the back yard. When the hood is on, you walk through a miasma of housebreath. The vent points down, which is the right thing so that you're not hit in the face with it. Not something you want on a patio or other place you're trying to enjoy, nor by a window through which it's going to come right back into the house. I don't know if it can also leave fog or even particulates on the window glass. Hopefully the filters and gravity would take care of the latter, but Kas is the physics expert, not me. Keep in mind that architects often aren't concerned with function. Wright's roofs leak because of poor functional design in his high art design. Meier designed the Getty Center with way too few restrooms, and by the time they figured it out, it would have cost too much to fix, so they finished building then remodeled. Architects are artists first and foremost, and mostly want to do what looks good, which is why they often go for what will minimally work, but looks cool, rather than using maximal function as a constraint and working that into the design (which is what Deusenberg was famous for--engineering first and a gorgeous coach on top of it).
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PRO
Mark Bischak, Architect
last year
I try to avoid any penetration through a roof.
M thanked Mark Bischak, Architect
mainenell
last year
Absolutely install the penetration through the roof as part of the roofing job. This will minimize the risk of leaks.
M thanked mainenell
kaseki
last year
The duct need not be straight up, it can deviate in the attic so that the external cap or blower is in a good position. Pressure losses in short additional lengths of ducting and modest bends are small relative to the hood baffle pressure loss or imperfect make-up air pressure loss.

The roofers will have to mess with the cap or blower if already in place, but I would ask them which they prefer as they have to guarantee the roof's zero leakage. Typical installation directions from such as Broan/Best/NuTone describe cutting into an already shingled roof. Part of the interface will have to go under shingles, and part will lie over shingles. Your contractor should also have an opinion. But I wouldn't hastily do ducting without having a complete hood system plan and a make-up air system plan.
M thanked kaseki
PRO
Jeffrey R. Grenz, General Contractor
last year
Yes, all penetrations through roof are done prior to initial roof "felt" or "waterproofing" layer. GCs have plumbers run plumbing vents, mechanical contractors run hood & bath vents when applicable - some thru roof, some through walls. Use the specs to determine duct size & roof jack size. Most inspectors expect these run through the roof deck prior to roof deck nail inspection (called "sheet & shear" or sometimes combined with "frame" inspection)

Of course at this point the hood vent should be selected and ordered, plumbing rough in valves in hand for install, sinks selected to complete cabinet designs for plumbing layout, etc.
rwiegand
last year
Best choice-- vent through a sidewall, no hole in the roof

Second best-- install and flash the vent as part of the roofing process.
PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
last year
Ditto
HU-867564120
last year
With a competent tradesperson, either option is feasible. If you do not have the roof vent in-hand now, I would wait and do the install later.

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