I was going to link you to a post on Neem Oil, but the search function is down today. I have it on file, so I'll just post again. I'm not sure I mention it in the article, but cold-pressed Neem Oil also has good antifungal properties. The info: Neem Extract as an Insecticidesize> In India mainly, but also Asia and Africa, grows a tree all plant enthusiasts should be aware of, Azadirachta indica, commonly known as the "neem" tree, and a relative of mahogany. Extracts from the trees seeds contain azadirachtin, a relatively safe and effective naturally occurring organic insecticide. Let me preface the comments following, by reminding you that the terms "naturally occurring and/or organic" do not universally mean safe. Pyrethrums, rotenone, and even the very dangerous nicotine are all organic insecticides that should be handled with great caution. Neem extracts, on the other hand are very safely used in a wide variety of cosmetics, as a topical treatment for minor wounds, as an insecticide in grain storage containers, bins, and bags, and a whole host of other applications. Neem is very safe for use around birds & mammals. I'll limit this discussion to its use as an insecticide. Neem works in many ways. It is effective both in topical and a systemic applications. It is an anti-feedant, an oviposition deterrent (anti-egg laying), a growth inhibitor, a mating disrupter, and a chemosterilizer. Azadirachtin, a tetranortriterpenoid compound, closely mimics the hormone Edison, which is necessary for reproduction in insects. When present, it takes the place of the real hormone and thus disrupts not only the feeding process, but the metamorphic transition as well, disrupting molting. It interferes with the formation of chitin (insect "skin") and stops pupation in larvae, thus short-circuiting the insect life cycle. It also inhibits flight ability, helping stop insect spread geographically Tests have shown that azadirachtin is effective in some cases at concentrations as low as 1 ppm, but some producers use alcohol in the extraction of neem oil from plant parts which causes the azadirachtin to be removed from the oil. Some products touting neem oil as an ingredient actually have no measurable amounts of azadiractin. I use what is referred to either as cold pressed or virgin neem oil. You may also occasionally find it referred to as "raw" neem or "crude" neem oil. Neem oil is most often used in an aqueous (water) suspension as a foliar spray or soil drench. Commonly, it is diluted to about a .5 to 2% solution, but the suggested ratio for use in container plant culture is 1 tsp. per quart of warm water. A drop or two of dish soap (castile or olive oil soap is best) helps keep the oil emulsified. The mixture is then applied as a mist to all leaf and bark surfaces and as a soil drench to the tree's root system. It should not be applied as a foliar spray on hot days or in bright sun as leaf burn may occur. Remember to agitate the container frequently as you apply and do not mix anymore than you will use in one day. Neem breaks down rapidly in water and/ or sunlight. Some users of insecticides feel the need to observe the instant results of their efforts in order to be convinced of the effectiveness of what they are using. The application of neem derivatives does not provide this immediate gratification. There is virtually no knockdown (instant death) factor associated with its use. Insects ingesting or contacting neem usually take about 3 - 14 days to die. Its greatest benefit; however, is in preventing the occurrence of future generations. It is also interesting to note that in studies it was found that when doses were given, purposefully insufficient to cause death or complete disruption of the metamorphic cycle, up to 30 surviving generations showed virtually no resistance/ immunity to normal lethal doses, so it appears that insects build no Âresistance to azadiractin. I have been using neem oil for at least 6 years as both a preventative and fixative and have had no insect problems on my container plants. Applications of cold-pressed neem oil are most effective for use on mites, whitefly, aphids, thrips, fungus gnats, caterpillars, beetles, mealy bugs, leaf miners, g-moth, and others. It seems to be fairly specific in attacking insects with piercing or rasping mouth parts. Since these are the pests that feed on plant tissues, they are our main target species. Unless beneficials like spiders, lady beetles, certain wasps, etc., come in direct contact with spray, it does little to diminish their numbers. Neem oil does have an odor that might be described as similar to that of an old onion, so you may wish to test it first, if you intend to use it indoors. I've found the odor dissipates in a day or two. As always, read and follow label instructions carefully. Neem oil can be purchased from many net or local sources. My favorite brand is Dyna-Gro, pure, cold-pressed neem oil. If you have trouble locating a source, you can contact me via the forum or directly. Al Fassezke

I believe in "MO BETTER." Like Jo, if one is good, the MO is BETTER. With plantaginea, I have 8. Sagae has 2 in one pot, I want to see a big plant quicker. Royal Standard, about 3, because I love it and it is fertile So Sweet 2 Frozen Margarita 2 Grape Fizz 2 Honeybells 2 Whirlwind 2 August Moon 2 Midas Touch 2 Invincible Spirit 2 Victory 2 planted in one pot Paradise Island 2 in one pot, looking gorgeous still Goodness, I could go on, but it is my policy to get the 2nd of its kind from a different source for several reasons....one being it is beautiful hosta....another being it is a way to check the growth habit which might be different if from a different tissue culture. I especially like to try for OS (originator stock) if available, and compare it to TC (tissue cultures). I have 2 Fortunei Hyacinthinas because they look so different. One is the light version, the other is apparently the darker version. As I discover the duplicate is the same as my original and it is healthy, I am sometimes planting them in the same pot--but that goes against my cautious nature, since if they are mixed I have no way of knowing with which plant a virus originates. Heck, I am only now beginning to merge hosta from various nurseries in the same row. Before, I had them isolated in "classrooms" which helped me identify each cultivar (because I knew what I purchased from them). As I discover some hosta (especially a fragrant one) produce large amounts of seedpods, I tend to get a duplicate of it.

G'day! I know I'm 6 years late, but I figured if I found this thread useful, maybe someone else might also. I currently have 7 healthy Plumeria trees and one that is having a hard time rooting. My eldest tree was a "cutting" ( I hacked it off ) from a mother tree I had in my old house; which I had replanted from the front of the house to Te back. It must be a hardy, because I have potted it over and over and it blooms every year. Four of my other trees are sharing space within my herb garden/veggie patch; in planters. Of these four, two flowered and two didn't. They are all different ages. For climate reference, I live in Sydney Australia, in the western most suburb, at the base of the Blue Mountains. We are in a valley and it gets really hot in summer and cold in winter. I think gardening is 80% luck and 20% technic. This has been my experience with different plants, even roses and bonsi plants. And of course a lot of patience. Good luck to all with your gardening endeavours.

My book says "You don't have to take any precautions to prevent one cultivar from crossing with another" but I checked the FAQ's and they say different that you have to cover the blossoms to avoid cross-pollination. Thanks in advance, ~mike **** Maybe about 90% of the time OP's do self pollenize. That means out of seed saved from 100 varieties on average 9 of them will have cross pollinated seed. But to help ensure that all the seed is pure it's suggested that one bag blossoms or grow varieties way far apart by geographic isolation. It really comes down to what the intended use of the seeds is going to be. If just for home use I don't think it's necessary to bag them but if you're going to list them in the SSE YEarbook, for instance, if you're an SSE member, or you're going to trade with them, then it might be better to bag blossoms. And bagging blossoms also can depend on how many varieties you're growing. For many years I used to grow about 200-250 varieties/year and there was no way I could bag all the blossoms I needed to to get the seed amounts I wanted for my listings in the SSE Yearbbok. But you said you read the FAQ on preventing X pollination, so I'm sure you know most of the details now. I would disagree with a book that said you don't have to take any precautions at all. And BTW most folks use the word variety when speaking of tomatoes, not the word cultivar as your book did. ( smile) Carolyn, who forgot to meantion that weather in any season can also cause stigmas to exert which means a normally non-exerted variety, which is the norm for our garden tomatoes, is more easily crossed by insect pollinators.