This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

Hate to say it, but I vote for the gut rehab if you can afford it. You would love it if you could pick everything out for yourself and update it. It's easy to splurge a bit on bathrooms because we don't need much in the way of volume of materials. So you could put in a really gorgeous slate floor, for instance. But if this is an "antique" house maybe this looks right for the house and is part of its charm? That's up to you. My inclination is if it's old subway tile it's priceless, so I'd work with it... but this... mmmm... not so much, sorry. If you decide to leave it for now, how about picking up some paint color chips at the store and holding them up to the picture to see how they look to you? Another choice is to beadboard over the wall tile, then redo your floor. You'd probably want to re-tile behind the tub in something neutral. You can also have a tub professionally resurfaced, and a bathroom remodel place can advise about the cost. It's undoubtedly cheaper than a new tub as I've seen them do it on HGTV's "Designed to Sell." You might want to take a photo to the hardware store and ask what they see as your possibilities and approximate costs for each thing. One word of warning... when you dig into old bathrooms there is often rot in the walls and floor from years of water, and mold. Subflooring may need to be replaced as well as wallboard. I'd just expect that. That's an added headache, but it's also a good reason to go for the gut rehab, to make sure it's structurally sound and mold-free. Do you have another bathroom in the house if you need to tear this one down? Whatever you do, please post before and aftef pics for us!

So.... I am posting swatches but only because I know you guys are smart enough to know that it's a completely worthless endeavor to try to evaluate paint colors on any kind of illuminated device, like a monitor. Since they rely on the very small RGB color space to render colors, they literally are not able to render color like we see it in real life. The swatches are for reference only - everybody knows you have to get in real life chips. Spanish Sand has Delta E difference of 1.4 from Manchester Tan - which means it's a relatively small difference, but you're going to see a difference when comparing. HC-81 MANCHESTER TAN Benjamin Moore Classic Colors OR-W7U SPANISH SAND Behr Color Collection Lentil has a Delta E difference of 1.2 from Softer Tan - again, means you'll be able to tell the difference between the two colors. SW 6141 SOFTER TAN Sherwin Williams Color N270-2U LENTIL Behr Color Collection Those are the closest colors from Behr. Everything else in the Behr collection is a ways off with Delta E differences of 2 or more - which is a lot and not in the ballpark of being a decent match and therefore not really worth mentioning.

@mark_rachel, I changed to cedar key. I bought it to go with the new marble tile I picked for the fireplace. There is a lot of natural light in the room. It might be a little pinker than bleecker beige, but I don't really see the pink when I don't look at them together. To me it is a very very soft latte. In the store it felt more gray. On some adjacent walls, I have collectors item. It is a creamy color, seems like a very light version of the yellows I had before. It works with cedar key. I did not want to be surrounded by taupe or gray, which is why I chose to contrast with cream. My living area pallete right now is BM white, cedar key, and collector's item. The paint consultant picked out the latter two when I brought in my samples. I told her bleecker beige (taupe) was my least favorite color (sometimes you can't avoid things that work so well), and that I loved gray but didn't want to be surrounded by it. I lived with bleecker beige for several years. Visitors loved it. I think I was ready to tone down all the yellows on the walls and floor, so I am happy going with cooler hues. BM has a free 2016 color of the year booklet that features varying shades of white. I picked one up at my BM paint store.