joists showing in new construction question
JESSICA AREVALO
17 days ago
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Verbo
17 days agopalimpsest
17 days agoRelated Discussions
Redwood deck finishing questioning: new construction/SF Bay Area
Comments (6)Eric; I'm exactly where you are - new redwood deck, ready to finish. I've found the deck finish industry to be very difficult to get a handle on. The literature is sketchy and doesn't always match whats available in stores around here. And on web forums, one person's success with a product can be matched to another's disaster. But I'm leaning towards Cabot's Clear Cedar, though I've not seen a semi-transparent sample except for what's on Cabot's web site. Can you tell me if your semi-transparent sample looks "painted" at all. I want to keep away from the opaque end of the spectrum without going purely clear and the lack of durability that comes with it. As far as prep goes, all I'm going to do is sand out any boot prints and black strapping marks and remove the dust with a damp rag. Then I'll let the sun darken the newly sanded areas for a few days, go over it again with a rag to clean any new dust off and apply the stain. I've read that Cabot has a pre-finisher for softwoods to make the stain absorb evenly but I think I'll skip that step. I don't think I'd ever rick pressure washing soft redwood so when the day comes to resurface this deck of mine, I'll rent a big sander. Concerning Aussi Timber Oil, I think it's more for hardwoods, even though Cabot's literature includes redwood as an application. I wish I knew more. Bill...See MoreNew Construction Vs. Retrofit Questions
Comments (5)The joys of home ownership :) You don't have to tear up the stucco. Here is a good method. Get a diamond blade for your circular saw. Get an expensive high quality one. On the outside, right NEXT to the exposed aluminum frame, cut through the stucco AND the nailing fin. Experiment with your blade depth because you don't want to be cutting into the stud. Diamond blades don't work so well on wood! Be careful on the corners to get a full cut - you'll have to go past 3/4" to compensate for the circular shape of the blade. When your finished, the old window will lift out if it doesn't fall out, so don't hold on to the window when your cutting. Also wear a mask because this is very dusty. At this point, you should end up with a clean cut in the stucco. You should measure your window to be app that size, and you can do that before cutting. Give yourself a minimum of an extra 1/4 inch all the way around for easy fitment between the stucco. You will most likely be behind the sheetrock at that point, but that's not for sure. Once you do one, you'll know how to do the others better. Worse case, you'll have to cut the stucco twice on the first one. DO NOT forget to flash/drip cap above the new window. You can get up in there with a sawzall blade and cut the nails to remove the upper fin, which should give you plenty of clearance for your drip cap. Go ahead and rip out your sheetrock before installing the new window, and then just jamb up to it once it's determined where it will sit. You won't loose much glass area, if any, if you do it this way. The new window, in this situation, will stick out past the stucco app 3/8 of an inch. You will be able, hopefully, to put a nice neat bead of caulk around it that way, with no raw stucco edge showing. Be sure that you measure for this from the inside surface of the wall around the window all the way around, because stucco can be much much more uneven than the inside sheetrock. Don't forget you can measure where the studs are by measuring between the sheetrock on the inside and adding for the thickness of the sheetrock. Compare this measurement with what you get measuring the exposed aluminum frame on the outside - BUT, use your inside stud to stud measurements for your basis of determining the new window size. Also, do not forget, window sizes are always width first. width x height. Always. If this sounds like too much for you, bit the bullet and have the pros do it. If you don't know what you're doing it's not hard to butcher this kind of job. Worse worse case, you're patching stucco, but that will always have a tendency to crack where you patched it. And please be careful with power tools on ladders. Always have a helper or two. Preferably one to steady the ladder, and one to hold the window. Tie off the ladder, tie off yourself. I hope this makes sense to you. Good luck....See MoreNew Construction - L shaped kitchen with island questions
Comments (10)AnnKH, thank you for sharing how you set things up. This gives me a great starting place. Like you, and others I've read on various posts, I'm wondering about that lost corner. I need to invent something that can pop up from thecorner - like a raised shelf that hides beneath the counter - a hidden compartment that can use that no mans land corner space. In our previous house we had a super susan at about a 45 degree angle in a sort of corner. It worked really well. We kept things like strainers, vegetable steamer basket, cheesecake pans etc. there but I liked my drawers so much that, like you, I'm really considering the drawers instead. In my head I have a plan for drawers and stand up dividers for things like baking dishes, muffin tins, etc. This is sort of scary and yet SO exciting at the same time. Mama Goose - Ohhh I'm drooling once again. I often think of chalk board back door and that sign, too. That was SO cool. I have photos of her kitchen saved on my phone I like it so much. I also like 2 fishies kitchen! Those are my 2 favs! I've seen other kitchens with baskets but I've never stopped thinking about HER baskets in the island. So, that's on my want list! I'm off to make tarter sauce for blackened catfish. Who wants to join us for dinner? Sunny...See MoreNew Construction Landscape Questions
Comments (15)Street or boulevard tree planting is often dictated by the municipality, usually because of size, inclination for surface root development and debris or litter production. And technically that is not private property to begin with but owned by the city/municipality....they just provide some planting options for the adjacent homewoners. Here, one must apply for a permit to plant or remove any street trees and choose from a preapproved list. But I don't know of anywhere that restricts what can or cannot be planted within the confines of one's own property, other than HOA restrictions. And we all know those have no basis in reality :-)...See MoreJulie Schmooley
17 days agoJESSICA AREVALO
17 days agoci_lantro
17 days agopalimpsest
17 days agoVerbo
17 days agolast modified: 17 days agoJESSICA AREVALO
17 days agopalimpsest
17 days agolast modified: 17 days agobtydrvn
17 days agobtydrvn
17 days agoJESSICA AREVALO
17 days agoCandace
17 days agoStacey
17 days agoAlly De
17 days agokudzu9
17 days agoJESSICA AREVALO
17 days agomillworkman
17 days agolast modified: 17 days agoJESSICA AREVALO
17 days agoTanna C
17 days agolast modified: 17 days agoJESSICA AREVALO
17 days agoJESSICA AREVALO
17 days agoMark Bischak, Architect
17 days agoJESSICA AREVALO
17 days agoRES2
17 days agolast modified: 17 days agoMark Bischak, Architect
17 days agoRES2
17 days agolast modified: 17 days agoRoyHobbs
17 days agolast modified: 17 days agoJP Haus
17 days ago3onthetree
16 days agobtydrvn
16 days ago
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