Vijay, Your tree looks pretty rough, you might want to strongly consider planting another peach tree. Peach trees can be replaced easily, grow fast and come into bearing fairly quickly, so it's not as big an issue to replace them, as say an ornamental or an apple/pear/Euro plum tree. In terms of pruning this tree, it's generally recommended to prune out canker, which I generally do. I pruned a row of peach trees today and found canker on one scaffold. I cut it off. That said, I have one peach tree in my yard I like very much. It has had canker for several years and is slowly in decline. If I cut off all the canker, it wouldn't have any scaffolds left. I've made 4 copies of the tree and my plan is to cut the mother/cankered tree down once the copies start producing. But like I said, ideally it's best to cut canker out. I think your tree has Valsa/perennial canker, not bacterial.

It is shot-hole. There are several diseases that give it. The main treatment is copper at leaf fall and copper at pink in the early spring. There isn't much to do about it now other than thinning out the limbs a bit to make sure enough sun is getting in. Sun helps dry leaves quickly and limits diseases. Scott

Lisa, Thinning refers to removing fruit, not pruning. It can be confusing because there is a term called, "thinning cuts", which refer to a type of pruning. However, when the word thinning is used in the context of fruit, it simply means removing some of the fruit and has nothing to do with pruning. Removing some of the fruit is beneficial because it allows the fruit remaining to become much bigger. It prevents broken branches because too many fruits will weigh branches down and break them. It also keeps trees healthier because it prevents over-cropping. So Jellyman was telling you to "thin-off" all the oozing peaches first (since they will be no good anyway). Then make sure there is a minimum of 6" or more of branch space between the remaining fruits. If there is not a minimum of 6-8" of branch space, then keep removing fruit until you've met that criteria. It's not unusual to remove 80% or more of the fruit from a peach tree. If you still have some good fruits left on the tree, it would be advisable to protect those with an insecticide. Triazicide Once and Done is a good choice and available at Walmart. You asked if it is OK to prune now. There may be no need to prune now, but if you feel a need, it is OK to prune now. Just understand when you prune off wood, you may be pruning off some fruit too. Naturally, any wood that is pruned, also removes the fruit attached to it. For leaf curl, you can spray either in the fall or spring (under heavy pressure) or just in the spring. For a fall spray, spray after the trees loose their leaves. Not every single leaf has to be gone, but the tree needs to be pretty bare when you spray it. Being a long way from MA, I have no idea what month this would occur. For the leaf curl spring spray, spray sometime before the buds start to swell. The idea is you want the peach trees still fully dormant when you apply the spring spray. Once the trees start waking up in the spring, it's too late to protect them against leaf curl. My guess is as soon as your winter snow melts would be a good time to get out there and spray for leaf curl. One side effect is your neighbors will think you're crazy spraying bare trees. For entertainment, you can encourage this perception by watering your trees while it's snowing. Do this while wearing a nightgown.

You need to put copper fruit tree spray on it. You can mix a small batch a little strong and just paint it on. I did that to one of my trees that got a canker. To be honest If it were me I would replace it. Peach trees need to be sprayed with copper to prevent canker even if it was a rabbit. You need to protect your tree trunks with something like black plastic drain tile so the rabbits don't do that. You could do something simple as cutting house wrap like Tyvek so its loose around the trunk and tape it to make a tube. That's what I do, but I have lots of Tyvek.