Oozing peaches
lilacs_of_may
15 years ago
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jellyman
15 years agolilacs_of_may
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Oozing peach tree with black spot on scaffold
Comments (9)I think it's peach canker. I hope more experienced peach growers will chime in. I was told that with canker, nothing much you can do but keep the tree healthy and vigorous so it can recover from this fungal disease. It depends on where the canker is. When possible, you could remove the affected branch. I've heard that some trim off the affected area and spray with fungicide.Never try it. I usually let my trees heal their canker wounds. So far, canker has not killed my peach trees yet. Also, look out for peach borers, too. It's an insect that attacks the base of your tree. Look around the base for oozing jelly-like stuff. In our area, growing peach is a lot more challenging than apple or pear....See MoreOozing peach tree
Comments (38)Dawn, what insecticide you use to kill gypsy moths. Is the insecticide labeled for fruit tree. If not, you should not eat the fruit. if the insecticide is good to use on fruit tree, spray a month ago is too long to protect your tree. Good cover spray work about 10-14 days depending on how much rain you get. Also, to help spray stay on longer, you need to use sticker like Bonide Turbo mixing in with the spray. There is a good chance that insects Oriental Fruit Moth or Plum Curculio punctured the skin of those peaches to lay eggs which will hatch to be larvae that move inside ppeaches to feed. Fruit will drop and when you cut them open, you will see tumpnnels or even worms inside. Check those fruit that have clear gel carefully to see if there is tiny holes on the area. If so, pick them off. Throw them out with trash. Do not let fruit lie around under the tree or compost it. You will help their life cycle that way. Spray with insecticide labeled for peach trees....See MorePeach tree issue: Red raised bumps on leaf, clear 'puss' on fruit
Comments (16)Lisa, Thinning refers to removing fruit, not pruning. It can be confusing because there is a term called, "thinning cuts", which refer to a type of pruning. However, when the word thinning is used in the context of fruit, it simply means removing some of the fruit and has nothing to do with pruning. Removing some of the fruit is beneficial because it allows the fruit remaining to become much bigger. It prevents broken branches because too many fruits will weigh branches down and break them. It also keeps trees healthier because it prevents over-cropping. So Jellyman was telling you to "thin-off" all the oozing peaches first (since they will be no good anyway). Then make sure there is a minimum of 6" or more of branch space between the remaining fruits. If there is not a minimum of 6-8" of branch space, then keep removing fruit until you've met that criteria. It's not unusual to remove 80% or more of the fruit from a peach tree. If you still have some good fruits left on the tree, it would be advisable to protect those with an insecticide. Triazicide Once and Done is a good choice and available at Walmart. You asked if it is OK to prune now. There may be no need to prune now, but if you feel a need, it is OK to prune now. Just understand when you prune off wood, you may be pruning off some fruit too. Naturally, any wood that is pruned, also removes the fruit attached to it. For leaf curl, you can spray either in the fall or spring (under heavy pressure) or just in the spring. For a fall spray, spray after the trees loose their leaves. Not every single leaf has to be gone, but the tree needs to be pretty bare when you spray it. Being a long way from MA, I have no idea what month this would occur. For the leaf curl spring spray, spray sometime before the buds start to swell. The idea is you want the peach trees still fully dormant when you apply the spring spray. Once the trees start waking up in the spring, it's too late to protect them against leaf curl. My guess is as soon as your winter snow melts would be a good time to get out there and spray for leaf curl. One side effect is your neighbors will think you're crazy spraying bare trees. For entertainment, you can encourage this perception by watering your trees while it's snowing. Do this while wearing a nightgown....See MorePeach Diseases, preventing
Comments (54)Len, I'm sorry you're still getting conflicting advice. Both Scott and Harvestman are both very competent growers. I think the lack of consensus is a testimony to the difficulty of your problem. However, my view is that your peaches are suffering from plum curculio, which is what Hman said in the first place. I know I said earlier, I thought it was oriental fruit moth, but after viewing your pictures, the extreme deformity and what looks like tunneling, I think the problem with these peaches is PC. That's not to say you won't also have OFM (since they are both common pests to stone fruits) but the pictures you posted look to me like PC. I think the problem with your spray program is the intervals are too long. As a homeowner, a pyrethroid like Triazicide is still a good choice, but it is not foolproof. This season, I sprayed a strong pryrethroid (Mustang Max) at 7 day intervals and still got significant PC damage on plums. Earlier in this thread, I recommended spraying at 7-10 day intervals, or at 10-14 day intervals. It's difficult to know how much pest pressure you have from a forum thread (and this has been a long thread) but it's apparent now, your pest pressure is pretty extreme. I would spray on a 7 day interval for a month an a half, starting at petal fall. Make sure your spray is good (i.e. don't store a mixed spray solution to be used later) and make sure your coverage is good (The fuzz on peaches tends to repel the spray, so make sure with your hand sprayer, the spray penetrates the fuzz to wet the skin.) I'm sorry this has happened again. Is there any fruit on the tree that is clean?...See Morelilacs_of_may
15 years agojellyman
15 years agolilacs_of_may
15 years agodtech80
8 years agoeastmeetwest
8 years ago
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