THANK YOU everyone for your all of your thoughtful insight. hcmcdole: I really like your idea of trying to grow them as a free form esapaillar. Or what if I just prune REALLY aggressively on the backside???... So here's what I'm thinking I'm going to do: I am going to prune REALLY aggressively on the backside of the plant to minimize it's growth and spread against the wall... Do you think this would work??? I don't mind how much if it wants to spread forward away from the wall or side ways in width. I would also like to minimize and maintain about a 5 foot height... That way it can overlap the bottom edge of my windows... And I can see the flowers even from the inside of the house. Is limelight the kind of hydrangea that will respond well to pruning and shaping during the growing season??? I know that I would probably make my life a whole lot easier if I just got the Little Lime variety... But it was nearly twice as much for a 2 gallon... Which isn't in my budget. What do you all think??? Am I going to be sorry years from now for even considering this idea and thinking I can keep Limelights growth maintained with pruning during the growing season??? I've never had much luck with hydrangeas in the past... So it's difficult for me to fathom a hydrangea that will grow 8 feet tall and grow so quickly.

Picture?

A newly planted hydrangea with yellowing leaves with yellowing leaf veins suggests that it may not be used to getting this much sun since planted 2 weeks ago. The nursery probably had it in less sun or in bright full shade. A nutrient disease (nitrogen deficiency) is a low possibility as well fertilized plants from nurseries should not show this issue in just two weeks. Then again, watering daily may make it difficult to absorb oxygen and maybe other already present minerals. The browning on the leaves may be fungus from the plant nursery or due to high humidity (watering daily sounds too much) or sun. Water if a finger inserted to a depth of 4" into the soil feels dry or almost dry. Make sure you do not water the leaves. Only water the soil! A sudden turn to light green after 3 years might indicate that the soil is becoming neutral or alkaline.

It may still open more flower buds; they do not all open at the same time exactly. But that version of MG has waaaaay too much nitrogen in the fertilizer. That causes nice dark foliage and few or no blooms. I suggest instead mulching with an organic mulch 10cms deep, year around, and also using a cup (cup=0.3 liter?) of organic compost, composted manure or cottonseed meal but only once in Spring... until they become established. Once they have become established, quit fertilizing and let them feed off the decomposing mulch. Still, I would not worry about blooms on year 1. The plants should be working to produce a nice big root system in preparation for winter instead.