Sorry about that. Had problems finding a free site to host the images -- they limit the size without a paid membership. You can see a larger version here of the bad leaves at the link below but I can't embed the image in this message. Again, just two or three branches are like this, all on one side of the plant. Thanks! Here is a link that might be useful: Pictures of funny leaves on Limelight hydrangea

You can use the finger method to control too little/much watering. At 6-8am for 2-3 weeks, insert a finger into the nearby soil daily to a depth of 4". Determine if the soil feels dry, moist or wet. If it feels dry or almost dry then water but otherwise hold off to prevent development of other issues like fungal infections and root rot. Each time that you water, make a note in a wall calendar. After 2-3 weeks, review the notes in the wall calendar. Determine how often you had to water, on average. Was it every 2 days? 3 days? etc. Then set the sprinkler or drip irrigation to provide from 1 to 1.5 gallons every "x" days. If the temperatures change 10-15F and stay there, consider using the finger method again to see if you need to tweak things. In June or July, you should be increasing the frequency of watering or increase the amt of water per watering. Then in the Fall, you should start reducing the water. As the plants go dormant, you can decrease further and water once a week or once every two weeks depending on local rains. Stop if the soil freezes. Resume watering in the Spring when the soil thaws. When hand watering, never water the leaves; instead, water the soil from the crown where all stems originate from and water outwards. Maintain the area mulched with 2-4" of organic mulch year around (do not use rocks as mulch). Identify what pests may be at work and then take appropriate measures for that type of pest. Many do not require an insecticide per se. Sometimes you can kill them with a hose set to give them a strong shock of water for example. But identify them. After all, an insecticide that is not targeted to kill your type of pest will be wasteful spending and do nothing to the other pests. ;o) Powdery mildew is caused by fungi that thrives in high humidity and dampness so you can try not to over water but if it is due to too much rain then you can't "stop" what started it. I have some PM near a neighbor's pool for example, so nothing I can do about that except put PM resistant plants and occasionally apply anti-PM sprays. A solution of 10% to 30% milk diluted in water can be sprayed weekly to get rid of PM. A different spray with 1 gallon of water 1tbsp of baking soda and a few drops of liquid soap can also be applied weekly. Thinning plants to air flow improves can also help but I would use sprays first (remember to spray the top, bottom of leaves and the stems). Replace mulch with new mulch in heavy infestations. Recreate these spray mixtures weekly. Throw away unused spray liquids. https://www.thespruce.com/baking-soda-for-controlling-powdery-mildew-1402520 https://www.thespruce.com/powdery-mildew-1402500 For pests, the actions to take will be unique to each so identify any pests first. Here is just an example: If you have spider mites, use insecticidal soaps/oils like Safer; use a strong bolt of water from a hose; or use a miticide if it is a large infestation and temperatures are above the level where insecticidal soaps/oils cannot be used. Next, year release predatory mites, lacewings and-or ladybugs a month before the infestation started.

Yes, unfortunately I am aware of this. We preemptively cut another branch off to the left that was hanging right out over the garage. I noticed a crack and called in a tree company right away. You probably notice that other cut right next to the recent cut. Unfortunately this tree sits at the back of my lot right on the alley line and right next to my driveway. If you’re an arborist, you know what the cost would be to remove the tree. It’s also a box elder which are very difficult to get rid of because they are sucker trees. Also, the neighbors like the shade. I cut off two branches last year because they were so close to their garage roof. What ta do?

“It does seem to respond a bit to rain/watering but briefly” - seems to suggest a watering issue. Inconsistent and insufficient water. The plant improves when watered but only when watered enough. The moisture is quickly lost and it wilts/etc. In the pictures, the soil looks dry and needs 3-4” of mulch past the drip line to keep the soil evenly moist for long periods. Consistent watering: water as soon as the soil is dry or almost dry at a depth of 4” (so test the soil often, perhaps daily or almost daily during hot times) in several spots under the canopy and always keep the soil mulched year around. Sufficient watering: water, wait for the water to percolate, then test the water at a depth of 8”; if dry at that depth, water more; if soggy, water less. If the soil is already soggy at a depth of 4” prior to watering, do not water. Hints: windy conditions, soil that drains excessively well and temperatures much above 85F help promote dry soil.