Lop off the top... that is pretty much what i thought i'd have to do to the big one at least. Never thought or read about the hinge straightening method before although i did wonder if something of the sort could be done. I even got an email from Oikos tree crops about their mulch mats and wondered if i should get a couple. I think i might. What is the best time to have a go at the big tree? It is any time of year or right about now is good? I'd like to keep these trees fairly small, i had thought they were dwarfs before i knew that both standard and dwarf were most always grafted. Growing up, all i had ever seen of apple trees growing on family land were seed grown except the one 3-in-one my grandfather had cobbled together himself many, many years ago. The big one is almost too tall to get the spray onto all the way to the top, so i won't miss losing any height. Also, is Bonide Fruit Tree Spray a good spray for these trees? I didn't know what exactly what to look for when i decided i needed to do something. I knew the trees had problems, but i didn't know where to begin looking them up. So i got what i hope is an effective broad-spectrum remedy. Is there something better i can get and something i can use right off? I first used the Bonide just as the leaves were unfurling and again when the flowers were all pink but not opened. The petals are falling, but not fast and they are turning brownish orange. There are even some buds that haven't opened yet... is that normal or a sign of an issue? I'm supposed to use the Bonide again when the petals fall but where it seems to be taking an extended time doing so, i'm wondering if the starting fruit will get attacked by something in the mean time. I tried finding a pictoral guide to pests & diseases of apples, but i didn't find anything i could use. I bought "The Pruning Book" by Lee Reich the other day, it won't arrive for a while in the mail. I have looked at other orchard books but i don't want to end up with less than helpful information... books are not cheap in any media. I was looking at the trees this morning and i was thinking... would it be stupid to just prune off anything that isn't flowering? Like the obvious suckers just shooting straight up. At least on the small one. I'd need a ladder anyway! Thanks for putting up with the rambling!

Thanks Don for sharing your insight and experience with me. I am prepared to prune like it is going out of style. My back yard is not very challenging to me right now with not much to do in it vegetatively. Even my garden I expanded this year had been very maintenance-free. I think I only pulled half a dozen weeds out since April. I've worked on creating a compact garden and a berry bed in the inside-side of the fence. My back yard is small and only extends about 24' back from the corner of the house. I fenced most of it in. I left some space on the outside of the east side where these trees are going. The soil is especially murderous on that side of the yard. I suspect when this house was constructed a little less than 3 years ago that the access road for the neighborhood construction was through that area. I notice contractor people here like to spread heaps of plentiful limestone rocks around construction sites for their machinery/keep mud down. It gets compacted and pressed down with that heavy equipment as houses are built. Then after a house is built it appears topsoil is added on top for sod, but it is never spread evenly. This explains why the west side of the yard is much easier to put shovel in than the east side. All my neighbors complain about their yards being the same way. Here's an example of what happened to all the rocks dug up in my back yard: I dug the final hole for that Mcintosh this evening and the soil was considerably easier to dig in. I had watered the spot where I wanted the tree a couple times this week and notice before doing that.. that the grass was more lush there. I can visually see where I will have a chore digging and where it will be relatively easy with not nearly as much shovel aerobics to pry out boulders and stones 'glued' into the ground. I hope these trees, as close as they are grow like wildfire because I want more privacy in my little yard. Notice in my picture the houses at the top of the picture... There's always people staring down at my wife and I from those balconies/roadway. We'd much rather they stare at fruit trees. I hope they grow 20' tall. ;) I will be sure to let you know how my Mcintosh grows (or dies). Last winter it was always colder on that side of the house. The path between the houses adjacent to mine act as a wind shaft to convect cold air along that area. Maybe that will be beneficial to the Mcintosh. Time will tell I guess. I will plant the Mcintosh probably tomorrow. I want to mix in some of that fertilized tree/shrub mix with our limely clay soil as I had for the two other trees. I could cram one more tree along the fence, but I have a white pine in the inside that should complete the blocked view (someday). I say I don't mind pruning now, but I may be saying different in 3-5 years eh? :)

Flipping through magazines and clipping picutres here on GW can really help. You can clip by saving to your "Clippings" the scissors on the upper right corner of your post. Visit FKB (Finished Kitchens blog) look at all the cherry and brown kitchens you can find to see what you like. I tend to agree with you that a cool brown not cherry is going to be easier to work with than a red cherry color. But this is just my personal love of wood tones. Keep in mind colors of floor, walls, counters, and the lighting will all add to the way the colors work. Meanwhile here are some different toned woods. Maybe you husband can start looking at what he loves the most and perhaps the two of you can find a dream kitchen. ~boxerpups Cherry Here are both woods used. A reddish tone and a warm brown island. Oak or fir (something with a rich grain) Maple Celebrity Cabinetry Strawberry Hill Millwork Cherry Luxury homes Delaware Cherry with a pecan stain Progressive Builders Mutschler Ktichens inc. Blake Sophisticated Stone Kansas City Lyptus Wood DuraSupreme Alectra Montego Door Lyptus Riemer Fine Cabinetry 11 If there is more of one color or type above let me know by responding and I will try to find more images similar to what you like above. Thinking of you and hoping you can find the right combo for your new kitchen. ~boxerpups

First, you don't want to spray ANY desirable tree with a herbicide!! Herbicides are intended to kill plants - as in trees - and so are typically restricted to weed control. Perhaps you meant insecticide, which makes much more sense :-) However, you should refrain from spraying anything until you have identified properly/correctly what is causing the problem!! This is the basis for Ken's comment about chemical shock - spraying willy-nilly with some sort of generic, mixed-use product can create far more problems than it solves. What kind of a cherry - fruiting or ornamental? Cherries are quite prone to a host of fungal problems and excessively wet and warm weather can exacerbate them. But most fungal controls are only preventative, not curative, and so must be applied at an appropriate time. Damaged leaves will not recover a pristine appearance - they will remain damaged until they drop. Take clear photos of the problem and a sample branch into your county extension office for an accurate diagnosis of the problem and recommended treatment. Be prepared to answer questions about planting, soil and care conditions as well. Overall, the tree does not look all that bad.......although in need of some judicious pruning :-)