I have bought many roses from Linda @ Long Ago Roses( over the last couple of years) on ebay and also her website. She is a pleasure to work with and I am always pleased with the roses I receive. I just spent my birthday money at Longago. The roses came yesterday and are nice plants as usual. My Clementina also came from her last year and is doing great. Here is a link that might be useful: Long Ago Roses

I bought 8 bands from LongAgoRoses in May and June of 2021. The best and strongest scents were from Felicia and Leander. Felicia was wafting musk and old rose. Inhaling Leander was like in heaven, the scent gets stronger in cool fall. I was impressed how Leander blooms lasted 6 days in the vase. Wenlock had better scent than Tradescant, and Wenlock is low thorn. Low-thorn roses like Felicia, Leander, Wenlock, and Nahema don't like my dense clay. These are slow to grow in my sticky & dense black clay, or in potting soil made dense with mix-in alfalfa and lime. These prefer light and fluffy soil. If I had to do it all over again, I would fix both potting soil and dense clay with gypsum to make soil lighter and more fluffy for these low-thorn roses. Nahema's blooms are exquisite, but best for loamy and fluffy soil. Below is Nahema's bloom as 1st-year own-root, the petals are thick like butter frosting on a cake, and the smell is a blend of exquisite rose and fruits, simply WOW. I never see blackspots on Nahema (upper branches are thornless). Nahema gets my vote as the most exquisite blooms with the most addictive and enchanting scent (way better than Evelyn's peachy scent). One bloom of Nahema gives me more enjoyment than any of my 140+ fragrant roses. Below Nahema is stingy but it's worth it. I'm tempted to get it again after it died in my zone 5 winter years ago. A friend nearby has Nahema as own-root for over a decade, so perhaps I need to dig deeper for drainage. I don't see blackspots on below Leander either, but my dense clay isn't best for it. Below blooms of Leander knocked me over with its strong scent, it's musk and old rose, pure heaven. The bush is very low thorn: Below yellow Well-being beats Jude the Obscure in the deliciousness of its scent, like a juicy tropical desert. I got so tired of pinching Well Being's buds off for my zone 5 winter-survival .. I gave up, it ended up with 15+ blooms in its 3rd flush as 1st-year own-root:

Does anyone have experience or instructions for disassembling these for a move? I've contacted Macy's and they told me to contact the manufacturer (Kuka) directly, which I did, but getting very strange answers about the product, as if they don't actually know how it's put together. We have the two power recliners that are linked together. But do the arms detach also? The manufacturer is telling me to lift entire unit by the arms and they are telling me it doesn't come apart in the middle. Both of these answers seem problematic, but the items were delivered and installed by Macy's several years ago, and I can't quite remember how they were put together. I have asked Kuka directly for some sort of user's manual, but no luck.

Thank you, Stephanie, for the tip of Garden Tutor Soil pH Test kit strips. I find that soil pH test via a solution (red-cabbage juice) is more accurate since it takes at least 1/2 hour for the minerals in soil to dissolve in water. I tested soaking coffee ground in red-cabbage juice, at first it was acidic (pinkish), but after 1/2 hour soak, the solution became clear, coffee ground is known as a buffer. Same with rose park nearby, they scattered a layer of gypsum on top of their clay. I scoop up 1 heaping Tablespoon of their soil and tested in red cabbage juice. At first the solution turned pinkish (acidic), from the 18% of sulfur dissolved first. After 1 hour, the solution became very blue (alkaline), from the calcium of gypsum being slowest to dissolve, plus the alkaline minerals in soil was slow to dissolve. SARENA: for the reason above, it's best to mix gypsum 1 month in advance into soil, and let rain or a few waterings release its acidic sulfur to dissolve minerals in soil (rather than to corrode roots). Since you are in a high-rain climate, it's good to have solid minerals on top to buffer acidic rain, such as a thick layer of Worm Casting (pH 7.4), or your clay (if alkaline like mine at pH 7.7). Vermiculite is to improve moisture and to hold nutrients, plus to make potting soil fluffy for wimpy own-roots. Perlite has zero nutrients but good to MIX-IN so roots can have more oxygen for growth. Own-root roses like moist but airy soil. Both vermiculite and perlite is best mixed into potting soil. One rooting method recommended by University of CA at Davis is to mix 1/2 vermiculite (for moisture & cation exchange) plus 1/2 perlite (for aeration).