Having ANY dryer or machine work for 13 years with no service calls, Somebody is doing something RIGHT. So its 27 years old, good4U. You probably have a lint build up just under the lower heating element and thats what you are smelling. You didn't mention how many are using this dryer, not that it matters if its 27 years old, and hasn't been worked on in 13 years. It probably needs the front glides and rear cheap bearing, and belt, and idler pully. So this dryer doesn't owe you a cent, for all these parts, and labour, the tech should be able to do this in a hour call out, if you are not way out in the boon docks. Because the tech has not opened it up to clairify the cost, lets say all these parts and 1 hours labour, at 60 hour to 80.00 that some charge now. And parts at 80.00 as I don't know what they charge in your area, as I am in Canada. Most of the new high end dryers a call out for them is 150.00 plus and they are new, yours is 27. Always good to hear about the old stuff still doing its thing. Brent@CanBC

Well I ultimately decided to get the washer fixed. But I am unhappy with the result. Before the repair the washer would work only intermittently. The repair tech replaced the motor, and the washer started working normally, up to a point. It will go into cycles, fill up with water, etc. The problem is that once loads of cottons get saturated with water the machine starts making a very-loud squealing noise and the drum doesn't move (or struggles) as the squealing occurs. When I stop the cycle and put it into Drain and Spin, the water will drain and the high-speed spin occurs as normal, with no strange sounds. The problem in my opinion appears to be the belt is slipping. Is it too loose (caused by the motor replacement), or are there other problems? I explained the situation to the tech who did the motor replacement. He is insisting that the rear bearing has failed and must be replaced. Before he put in the new motor I was able to get the machine to do a high-speed spin. There was a racket. He said he could hear thunking from the the rear of the drum, indicating a possible problem with the rear bearing. I had a listen, but it seemed to me to all the loud racket was coming from the old motor, not the drum. If the tech felt bearing failure was a possibility I wish he would have made that clearer. He's said that his work is under warranty, and will fix any problem with the installation for free. But he put a caveat where I will be paying more money if he feels the problem is not due to his motor replacement work or if other work must be done. How does one tell when a rear bearing failure is imminent? I am thinking of getting a second opinion from another company recommended by a friend. This will, however, also cost me more money. I feel like a fool at this point. I now feel like I have made a mistake trying to get it fixed, and I'm thinking of cutting my losses at this point and just getting a new machine. At this point I can only operate the washer with very small and light loads. Should I have the tech come back given the caveats that I may have to pay more money? Should I get a second opinion from another company? Should I eat the loss and move on?

Thanks for the replies. "The catch basin can come later, or not at all. I'd probably mortar the holes from the outside. You can't actually get into yours, can you? How big is the access plate? This thing is holding liquid, right, or just a bunch of debris?" The access plate is about the size of a manhole cover - maybe 2 feet across, give or take a little. It *should* be holding three feet of liquid, but there is so much debris in there that there isn't any standing water. So, if we continue to use it, we have to remove the debris and let it fill up with water again. "I smell a rat if the plumber says he wants to route surface runoff (rain water) into city sewer. You should call to ask the city yourself if it is allowed. Around here the plumber and home owner could be fined and home owner would foot the bill for correcting it." The rainwater goes into the sewer right now (from the downspouts, underground into the catch basin, and from there into the sewer). My understanding is that this is how it was done 100 years ago and the city allows existing piping to remain, but new construction can't do this.

I think your cabinets are still beautiful and my feeling is if you have no intention of changing the layout, I'd leave well enough alone. Cherry cabinets are always in style and wood cabinets are actually coming back into vogue once again. As for the floors, I love a dark floor in looks, but had one in my condo and HATED the fact that it constantly looked dirty and dusty. I'd reconsider a dark finish. I think your floor finish works too. If the granite cracks, I'd look at a new countertop such as a Taj Mahal quartzite or if you love quartz, one that is warmer than a gray/white. Then have fun with the backsplash. Some other thoughts. How many more years do you intend to stay in the home? That too will determine whether it's worth redoing the cabinets, etc. How do you feel about the cabinets? Are you wanting to make white cabinets because that's what's in? Or do you really love the look and would love it even if it wasn't "in" and trendy? Do you really want to spend the money on new cabinets when the money could be used for other things? A nice cruise for example? Personally, I would never paint gorgeous cherry cabinets white. Painted cabinets will never hold up as long as your cabinets. The person who bought my condo painted the gorgeous bathroom cherry cabinets white, and somehow they look cheap now. (Please don't tell her I said that! LOL.) Thankfully she left the cherry kitchen cabinets.