Under a tree is a perfect spot to put bulbs because the bulbs grow in the early spring, before the trees leaf out. Yes, birch trees are "thirsty" but they need water because they lose it through evaporation from their leaves; in March/April they are not covered in leaves yet, so there will be plenty of moisture int he soil. In the mean time you have to have to supply a "thirsty" tree water and protect the soil with mulch - you may as well plant flowers in it to take advantage of what's there!

Actually, John, this is the latest theory here, at least in my neck of the woods - do NOT amend soil. It is better to top dress than to amend. I just attended a seminar through the San Diego Horticultural Society. One of the most renowned urban foresters in the country, Robin Rivet, happens to live in San Diego county. She spoke about how to correctly plant a tree, and did confirm this is the latest recommendations. UC Riverside also recommends the exact same thing, based on my class I just attended there, "Citrus in the Garden" taught by Tom Shea and Dr. Tracy Kahn. So, my information is coming from pretty substantial sources. Our chicken manure in bags is well cooked. Actually, your best, best manure is chicken, then horse, then cow. At least, this was the information I received at my Master Gardener's classes through Purdue University. Here's the info from Center for Urban Forestry: "Do not amend the soil. Adding soil amendments to the backfill is another discredited practice. Some bagged soil products advertise adding one bag (3 cu ft) per tree. The tree roots need to get into the native soil as soon as possible in order to encourage them to grow beyond the dug hole. Amended backfill soil, while encouraging of root growth for a short distance, stunts further growth." You can access this document here: http://ucce.ucdavis.edu/files/datastore/391-272.pdf So, this is the current thinking. It is new, John, and based on some recent research. So, sharing what I've learned recently from some very astute and well-experienced sources. So, perhaps the gurus in Texas might want to confer with the gurus in California! I think the logic prevails with planting in native soil. You can't possibly amend soil in a large enough hole to assure proper root growth. And, your amended soil will eventually revert to native soil, so that's a huge amount of effort that will not assure solid root growth. The thinking now is to try to replicate what nature does - provide good organic materials that support excellent microorganisms in the top soil by top dressing, that will percolate down to the feeder roots. It makes much more sense to me. I respect the folks in Texas, they're great and do a wonderful job with their citrus. But in this, I respectfully disagree with them :-) Patty S. And from UC Davis', "Questions and Answers to Citrus Management" by Tom Shea and Dr. Peggy Mauk: 2. When should I plant, how deep should I plant and how big a tree should I plant? The best planting time is after frost danger (after February 15 in the Riverside area) and before the onset of hot weather. Although fall planting can be successful it is generally better to wait until spring. Always choose a location that has full sun throughout the day. It is best to plant in well-drained soil (see Q. 3). Dig the planting hole as deep as the root ball and as wide or wider than the root ball. Be certain that the tree is not buried below the graft union. The graft union (slight dogleg shape in the trunk) should be located several inches above the soil level. Trees buried too deep may not survive. It is always best to fill the planting hole with the same soil that was removed when digging the hole. Do not add any mulch or potting soil into the tree hole. These materials retain more water and may increase the chances of root rot." I understand that the citrus gurus in Texas are great folks. But perhaps they might want to confer with the citrus gurus in California who are espousing an updated philosophy about amending versus top dressing. This is supported by some fairly significant research, John. If I can dig up the research, I'd be happy to send it to you. But I'm sticking to this. It just makes more sense to me, and the research backs this up. Patty s. Here is a link that might be useful: Center for Urban Forestry, San Diego County Trees: Proper Planting

Hi Dan, Your comment: " if I followed every possible pest, disease, and potential issue precautioned by this forum I would not be enjoying 1/2 of the conifers I currently own". You are able able to have the beautiful garden and plants because you are a hands on type gardener. You live it, breath it, and you grow it. You know what works. Unfortunately we have a certain group on this forum that don't live it, breath it, and grow it. They base all their advice on some book or books or past educational experience. I read over the head comments like: influence of rootstocks and cultivariance (characteristics of propagules affected by location of scions or cuttings on stock plants. For the amateur or part time gardener who is trying to sort out a nagging problem we don't need big words. Those kind of comments belong on a higher learning educational program not here. I can think of 3-4 well meaning individuals that respond in this manner and if the truth were known they don't grow it but some how they have all the answers to whatever our needs are. If by chance they post a conifer photo it is some weird tree in a far away obscure land. Never anything they grow. Heaven help us if we try to post a photo of anything we are proud of growing. There is never a positive affirmation from this elite group to these people for what they are trying to accomplish... nothing. I post photos of my conifers and design lay out to give people a glimpse of what can be accomplished on a small building lot. You can see what a particular conifer looks like in a given situation whether it be a stand alone or grouping. I am fortunate to have the time, money and a source for most conifers I want to grow and my garden is open to anybody on an appointment bases. When I see a photo of a small plot developed by some individual on this forum with 4-5 small conifers and companion plants I can remember when I was at that stage of the game and needed lots of help. What did this individual get back from this forum...4 positive replies..none from the elite or super group because they couldn't come down to that persons level to be kind. Why because they don't live it, breath it and GROW it. Dave

When you say you'll take out the juniper does that mean you'll excavate the roots - or do a quick swish with the saw at ground level? If the roots will be staying (smart move!) then it may be useful to create a temporary raised bed from bricks, rocks, logs - whichever suits your yard style and fill that with your compost. Before you apply the compost you could also add a layer of blood and bone fertiliser directly on top of the tired soil. It won't hurt the worms. The worst that could happen would be 'critters' coming by to dig up the bed for the snack they can smell. If that has no appeal - then use a fertiliser with a reasonably high Nitrogen portion so the microbes breaking down the roots have a source of Nitrogen and aren't robbing your plants. (The plus on the organic mix is that it is slow-acting over months instead of a quick jolt.) Just grow annuals for a year or two until the smaller roots at least have had a chance to start rotting down. If you also add your grass clippings and leaves from the maple to this 'temporary bed' then you'll begin to see an improvement in the underneath soil quality probably as soon as next spring.