First you need to find out how the carport was engineered. A kitchen with walls, windows, cabinets, etc. will involve more weight, so you need to know how much the existing structure will support and what changes would need to be made.

You would need an architect or design/build firm to work out the roof structure of the garage. They would also need to look at any permitting issues.

A contractor would also need to figure out plumbing (crawl space below?), HVAC (bigger/more units), electrical, etc. Your local building dept. will determine what, if anything, needs to be brought up to current code.

You will have aesthetic issues like matching your brick or choosing another siding. Then there are practical issues like the supply chain for windows, doors and appliances.

Usually projects like this take a lot of planning, designing, permitting, etc. And you have to find the money, which is unlikely to be negligible.

I will be searching for an architect soon. Not concerned about HVAC...will probably just go with a mini split for this new room. Plumbing should be easy since the wall on the other side is the existing kitchen. Just need to run pipes through the brick to get water to and from carport structure. Carport already has electric out there with a few outlets and overhead lighting. I am no engineer but from the looks of it, the original builder appeared to have built this in a way for it to be easily converted in the future. There are no windows that would be covered in this process. I am aware it will be a costly remodel but that does not matter to me. I have been thinking about this for many years and I am ready to go thru with it as I currently have no kitchen. If for some reason this was not possible, I would most likely want to sell my home because I cannot function any longer with the tiny space that was built originally.

Check local codes about additions, setbacks in the front yard, and so on. You will need to know what is under the carport.

​In general: the floor level of the carport is lower than the main house, and you can see that the roof level is lower also. The slab for the carport is probably sloped, will have to be torn up for plumbing, and I assume you'll want it the same level as the rest of the house. So your ceilings will be very low in the kitchen, maybe lower than code. You may end up having to rebuild the roof, which will make the project even more expensive. Of course, I could be reading more into the limited info you've given.

What you are planning is a full scale addition there is no converting a carport to living space no matter where youlive. I assume you do not live hwere winter heating is needed and IMO that is not a reality in NA usually. A carpot is just a driveway with a roof and sometimes sides not a real living space . There is nothing simple about building an addition it is just like building a mini house .BTW good luck in most parts of the US to get any building started in the next 2 months .Contact an architect first that is where this begins , have a budget in mind and be realistic about it.I ssume the carport is in the space at the left of the pic of the house so I need to see the house from the other side where you are planning the addition and what is behind that bare wall on the left.

@Seabornman Yes you are correct the roof on the carport is a bit lower than the other roof line so I had already anticipated I would need to rip that roof off and rebuild. For plumbing, I was wondering if an alternative to ripping up concrete is to simply run plumbing through the brick wall somehow? The carport floor level is almost the same as the house level. I would say it's less than an inch difference, nearly flush.

@Patricia Colwell Consulting I figured i would install a mini split for heating and cooling in the new kitchen. I see this site has a function to search for architects. Do you have any suggestions on how to go about finding someone to work with? Would like to start working on this soon as I am hoping for this project to be completed by the end of Summer if at all possible

This isn't exactly an ordinary carport that's a thin slab on the ground, it has some sort of full foundation because you enter an entire level up from the base of the structure.

I grew up in a house with a garage entered on the second level like this and it actually had a full basement under it.

@palimpsest you are absolutely correct. that concrete on the carport appears to be several feet deep and has been bricked over. This house has a full daylight basement as you can see from the back side.

Does the basement extend under the carport?

When you find an architect, go in with an open mind. It may be better, cheaper, or easier to build your new kitchen elsewhere, like where your screened porch is. That would have the advantage of not making the new garage such a prominent feature from the street.

So your goal is to have a nice kitchen, and let your architect help you achieve that in the best way.

Your timeline expectations are unrealistic. There is no way construction will be completed by the end of summer; you will be lucky if design is completed then. I hope your budget expectations are more realistic.

The first step is to find an architect and determine if what you want to achieve is even possible. It may turn out that a teardown of the carport is the most feasible option. Even if setbacks allow, try and envision what your house will look like with the garage jutting out toward the street.

I usually disagree with those who are always clamoring for more information, but this may be an instance of that being useful. If you post the whole floor plan of your house you may get some more informed opinions here.

Some carports are built, so that they can be converted. Mine is that way. It was built, with the idea of becoming a second living room. Your carport actually doesnt look very big, is it just a single car carport. If so, you still wont have a very big kitchen, once you get walls and cabinets installed in there.

@latifolia Yes I will go in with an open mind. The goal is a large eat in kitchen so I am totally open to it being in a different location

@RappArchitecture Yeah I am aware that it will take some time. I am just speaking in wishful thinking i suppose. Even with the garage being built in front of the carport it would still be very far from the street. I have an acre lot and the house sets back off the road about 100 feet. Money wise it makes sense so that is not a concern at all. I made a wise investment so I can put $150k into upgrades and would still have equity left after that but my goal is to spend under $50k on this project.

@cat_ky The carport is roughly 330 sq ft. The dimensions are 22*15. I thought that would make a good sized kitchen. Compared to what I have now, I will take it!

Start looking at houses to buy while researching this project. At least you will know what is available in your market. I don't think you are going to get a kitchen addition for under $50k. Cabinets alone can cost that much. Please post a picture of the kitchen now. Your house seems large enough to have more of a kitchen than what you describe.

@jck910. i will not be able to buy another house of this size, with the same lot size in a very nice neighborhood on a dead end street for anything remotely close to what I have paid. I would have to spend at least $250k more than what I owe. I want to stay where I am and fix this one up. Cabinets do not have to cost that much, Those cabinets are obviously for someone who lives in a more expensive house. It would be unwise to buy such cabinets in this home. There are other options available that cost a fraction of that.

50K? for the addition, kitchen and garage? Add your 150K to it and you'll be in the right ballpark.

it might not cost the fullt 200K, but I guarantee its going to be well over 100K when it's all said and done. (kitchen cabs, flooring, electrical, plumbing, drywall, appliances can total 50K in an instance. Don't forget about all of the extra roofing you're going to have to do. )

I like the idea and think it could work. I'd keep the ceiling vaulted (or cathedral style) and think about skylights.

call in a architect and move forward from there.

@Beth H. I appreciate your response but I can guarantee you I will get this all done for well under $100K. I see you are in CA. I am in NC and things don't cost quite that much here. I just spoke with someone who did exactly what I am doing, only they turned their carport into a master bedroom with full bath and WIC, plus they got their lot regraded, a completely new furnace and a small porch enclosed to a full room for $40K and they are in GA. There are all different contractors out here; high end, middle of the road and some cheap. I will find a middle of the road one who does quality work.

did they do it recently? I ask because the hprice of lumber has quintupled since covid. (plywood used to be $17. now it's $70) construction prices has also tripled since then.

But if you can get all of that done for 50K, have it all pass inspection and get quality items, more power to you!

@Beth H. Believe it or not it was recent. The construction is currently in progress and will be finished within the next few weeks...And everything was fully permitted and done to code. I think it boils down to finding contractors who match your economic level. There are some people who do great work that didn't become high end contractors so their labor costs reflect that.

I’m building a pole barn in rural Ohio, with a relatively low COL. My husband is a trade carpenter and all his friends are in the trades. Without labor, Im looking at $40k. No way you are getting all that done for under $100k. Reputable contractors pay their skilled workers good money. If a contractor gives you cheap labor costs, it’s because his workers are unskilled or he picks them up in the Home Depot parking lot.

Not sure where you are in NC, but I am in the Triangle area. Just to do superficial work to three bathrooms i.e. tile, cabinets, lighting, countertops, dry wall, plumbing fixtures, demolition, painting, framing, plus all the labor for above, is an easy $40K. I am locking in prices now so I know what real prices are. I am not moving anything, just replacing. RE: "finding contractors who match your economic level", my GC who is giving me a very good break to coordinate this project suggests go with the best for plumbing, electrical and tile. The low bidders or "guys who do it on the side" for those items, are putting your project at risk.

All the best to you on this journey!

@tozmo1 I get what you are saying but you are honestly paying those prices because you can afford to regardless if you want to or not. When you cannot afford that, you will not pay that. I just completely gutted 2 full baths down to the studs for under $10K and I used expensive materials. One of the baths has a granite countertop with a marble floor. The work was done by a skilled tiler with over 30 years experience and we used an independent licensed plumber for the plumbing. For the lighting, I called out a separate licensed electrician. I did keep the existing cast iron tub and the long 84 inch vanity cabinet but put granite on top. If I had bought a new cabinet that would have been an add'l $2K so I do understand how things add up quickly

@suedonim75 are you saying that your material costs for this pole barn is $40K? That seems awfully outrageous in my opinion

No one understands how much things differ from state … I believe you can get what you want with your resources… just take what you can from the suggestions…it doesn’t sound like you are discouraged so carry on…

Thanks for the comments so far everyone. They are helpful. I will soon begin my discussions with a few architects to get a good design and price scope. I think this is a good discussion and I will be excited to share once I get more info.

From different states🙈

@Sheen Do keep us posted. I'll be interested to hear your timeline and how your costs go. Not sure where you are in NC, but in my county, just getting a building permit for a friend's recent very small addition took almost six weeks after the plans had been submitted. Permitting departments and building inspectors are taking a long time due to the building boom here which seems to only get crazier every week.

Everyone's opinions about the cost are misplaced. The OP is clearly ready to spend the money to make her vision for her house come true, however much or as little as that might be. It may not happen as quickly as she would like due to market and construction demand, but so what? Moving ahead by selecting an architect will make the process begin. I will be interested in the design that he/she comes up with.

@User, your expertise in construction costs is noted. But I repeat, the OP doesn't care. Perhaps she will after she hires an architect to develop the design and gets some bids. Until then, she should proceed with a design and see if it's worth it to her to build it.

@RappArchitecture I hear you but the OP asked "Can you all give me some ideas, suggestions, comments, concerns, anything. I am to the point where I want this work to begin within 2 months."

Folks here are providing ideas, suggestions, comments, concerns, anything. The main concern being that the cost is not in line with goal based on this statement, "I can put $150k into upgrades and would still have equity left after that but my goal is to spend under $50k on this project." .

I do agree, OP will proceed based on info received in their market. I'm curious to hear how it goes.

Starting with an architect is foolish. Sheen needs to speak to a reputable GC first. That conversation will lead to a budget and that budget becomes a parameter within which the architect must work. The GC will have connections for architects.

Any reputable (this means licensed) architect will be able to design to a budget, or tell the OP that her budget is not sufficient for the work she wants done. There's nothing wrong with bringing in a GC early in the process, in fact it's preferable, but it is not true that a GC needs to be the beginning of the process, even if the OP could guarantee that the GC was accurate in providing cost information. There are many GCs out there, many good, some not. The ideal scenario involves getting costs and information from multiple GCs, not just one. Design-build teams are also an option which the OP should consider.

That carport must have an amazing view. It's wasted on cars. :)

@fori Wow you are good. This is the exact reason I want it to be my kitchen:) My home backs to a beautiful wooded area with tons of wildlife including a variety of beautiful bird species with a huge pond off to the left. And the carport sits very high up off the ground. It's beautiful and very peaceful. My vision is a wall of glass on the back and the wall that is parallel to the brick side of the house. Can't wait to get this started

i just realized I neglected to mention a key piece of information. The budget that I'd like to stay within is for framing and construction only. I did not include appliances, fixtures, or cabinets because I would like to save money by doing that part with friends or hiring handymen later. I do not want any flooring installed. I'd like my floor to be stained concrete.

This is where we put a kitchen with (almost) no upper cabinets.

But that's fun for later.

@Jean Thank you! I am so excited to begin discussing this with someone!

Be sure the concrete man understands you want the floor finished smooth…then after stain… add a clear coat sealer for a pretty durable…shiny finish..it is also necessary to make striations in the concrete to prevent cracks as it settles…also keeping in mind the added weight may require more support than a regular floor …even if you have a slab foundation it will be wise to add re- bar into the slab to prevent big cracks…the green is my favorite of any of the choices…over time added liquid wax will keep it shiny if needed….my favorite floors ever in our home

You really need to design the kitchen along with construction of the space, not as an afterthought. Why? Because you need to know where all the cabinets, appliances, etc. are going so you know where to put the windows, doors, plumbing, electrical, HVAC, etc.

Building codes require you to have outlets, even in an island, so the conduit needs to be run before the floor is poured. If you're venting your range, which you should, you need to run the ductwork.

When i did my floors this was really only common in Florida ..and mostly commercial spaces…so i didn’t know about the possibility of cracks…to my regret the unexpected cracks eventually led to having to install LVP over it…..in our case the floors were too cold in the winter so the LVP was a good change for that…

We did have radiant heat in our Aspen home…and it was amazing… even kept the house so comfy in the winter…very cheaply