grassy - the bloom stalk of glads can be pretty tall, especially if the corms you have are the grandifloras. When I've planted them in the past, I've put them with anything I have in the gardens, anywhere there's space. After blooming, the swordlike foliage is quite nice on its own and really doesn't need hiding behind other things. One thing though, plant them in a bunch/group - not all lined up like marching soldiers (nothing looks worse). I plant mine a little deeper than the recommended 6 inches - this helps to keep them from flopping over because of the heavy bloom stalk. I'll plant 7 - 9 of them together in the same spot with barely 2 inches between corms. This also helps to keep them from falling over without having to use stakes. I also cut down the bloom stalk once the last floret goes - the spent stalk looks pretty sad. I've also grown them for use as cut flowers for the house - sometimes they can be more impressive in a vase than out in the garden.

Browning glads can be lifted and will cure with no special cut back or treatment as long as they remain dry. That allows the collection of the bulbils or cormlets that glads produce around the mother corm that can be planted by themselves for growing on next year. Some few will even bloom the first year in the nursery row. All should bloom the second year. The mother bulbs get larger every year and can get huge. Glads that are mature as yours do not go dormant for the cold, they go dormant for the dry; so I would not interplant those left in the ground. Personally I would dig them to replant next year, even if that were back into the same bed. To store strip off the cormlets, dry and save them in a paper bag. Bind the stems of the mature plants together and hang in a dry place. Easy Peasy. Shell out the bulbs to be planted next year when planting time comes around, just before you put them back in the ground. In southern California the only condition would be to keep them dry in storage. Up here we dare not let them freeze either, although a nip on the foliage is generally not an issue. In your climate you can replant glads anytime you want; so that would depend on when you want the flowers or you can stagger your planting for a longer blooming season. Keep them well watered from emergence through bloom and then a couple more weeks. Then cut the watering and let them dry themselves out. They can be dug wet or dry though and will dry themselves out with one of the most natural cures of anything we store, just so that they are far enough along to have set and built the size bulb one wants, provided that like for tulips one does not cut the stems back until they have completely dried themselves out after having been dug.

dug from semi frozen soil.. they are DORMANT ... what you see is fall growth ... they are dormant ... your goal is to keep them dormant ... a warm garage.. might trigger growth ... and if they then refreeze.. they might fail ... the sooner the better on replanting ... but a few days shouldnt matter if they stay cold ... you could probably just throw a plastic grocery bag in a snow bank to hold them over ... i dont know how many you have ... dig a 6 inch hole ... a few feet in each direction ... and just shove them all together ... and move them in fall... or better.. when they go dormant in mid summer .... this is not the time of year.. to try for design nor individual placement ... asap would be better .. a few days delay is ok... IF YOU KEEP THEM DORMANT ... i dont know what kind of hyacinths ... large flowers... 4 to 6 inches deep... small types more shallow.. generally 3 times the bulb size ... ken

I live in zone 8b. I've never had glads because they are so easily toppled by wind, but my mother had them and always dug them up in late summer after they went dormant. Glads are native to South Africa and the dry season is essentially their winter. My dry season is July and August. The bulbs should be dug up anywhere a killing frost can occur. Here is an ARTICLE on them.