Let's talk about the Weather in the colder zones-2-3-4.
BillMN-z-2-3-4
4 months ago
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41 North (Zone 7a/b, NE, coastal)
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Let's talk about the predicted freeze!!!
Comments (16)This is SO different from last year - I had oaks with 10 inches of tender new growth, American persimmons with 4-6 inches of tender new growth, all my fruit trees had all but finished blooming - many with small fruit already developing. The 4-5 consecutive nights of temps into the low 20s/teens were devastating - I had young grafted pecans, persimmons, and mulberries in the 6-10 ft height range killed back to the ground. Pecans and hickories lost all their leaves. Only two of a dozen or so grafted heartnut varieties were not killed off completely - including a couple that were 10 ft tall - killed back to the black walnut rootstock. Black walnuts and most Asian persimmons were still dormant, and escaped significant damage. This year, pears, peaches, plums and a few early apples are just now in bloom, but pecans and oaks are just entering bud-swell, or early leaf extension. Persimmons and mulberries have not yet broken bud. I'm not overly worried, and I'm not bothering to attempt to cover anything. Extension fruit specialists here are predicting at most a 10% reduction in total crop....See MoreLets talk about Plum
Comments (831)Plums have been a continual disappointment to me. I'm about ready to chop them all down. I have Opal and Green Gage in the ground, but they don't seem to want to grow. I had a beautiful Toka tree, but it never bore fruit and just up and died a couple of springs back. Ptitsin #5 and Brookgold (I suspect was mislabeled and is really Brookred) will grow and survive the winters OK here -- but they either bloom too early or fruit too late, and are aphid magnets. Frankly, they're not worth the space they take up. I've tried Black Ice about five different times, because I heard it's hardy to zone 3b and fruits earlier in the season. But it always winter kills here. We are supposedly in zone 4 under the newest classification, but I have a hard time believing it. I grow a variety of apples, pears, and sour cherries ... even got a few apricots last year. But I've come to the conclusion that this is just a tough area to try to grow plums....See MoreLet's talk about blight...
Comments (3)Hi Olivia, I think it doesn't really matter if you are referring to Early Blight, Late Blight, or some other disease in this case. I believe you have made several small changes to your tomato gardening that have added up to a concurrence that of conditions that make your plants more susceptible to almost any desease. (Although there isn't any thing you can do about the weather.) Your plants have more contact with each other due to a change in support combined with stopping the practice of pruning, less air flow, and lots of rain. By itself using Florida Weave would not have contributed to an increased disease load, but I think since you stopped pruning and put the tomatoes that are more affected near your barn, you should have spaced them further apart. I use the Florida Weave method of support in my garden, but I space my plants three feet apart and they are in an area where nothing blocks the wind. I don't pruse, but do try to keep the lower leaves from contacting the soil. By the end of the season (if the weather is cooperative) I have several nearly solid hedges of tomatoes that are about 65 feet in length. Personally, I don't think the fact that your are growing new to you heirloom and open pollinated tomatoes has any bearing on the issue. Betsy...See MoreLet's talk Root Zone
Comments (14)While being led to think size matters does hold some fact to it , not always will a bigger pot equate to a bigger plant. Mis worded is the suggested idea that using the same amount of water that was being used in a smaller pot is the same amount of water being used in a bigger pot equates to a bigger plant as a result. Elevated footing on the bottom (as Pagan shows) there is also more to a pot than the bottom Dime store TC with out any bottom feet vs dime store plastic with 3/16ths feet for slight bottom elevation. Small pots to me means any pot that is less than three inches ( of which all three of these are.) Left to right shows one hand made with footing a dime store ceramic glazed with footing and a hand made with out footing. No they wont get any bigger in a shorter time than the plants already determined by nature " natural habit" if put in a bigger pot simply because they don' t In this example (of species serving as The counter of agreement) they MIGHT become bigger in a time frame of five to ten years even if left in the small pots they are already in. Simply said it would be tragic to "" bigger pot"" any of them before there time with the same watering BTW ,which would ( in a short time of apx one year or growing a season) equate to over watered if put in a bigger pot because size is also relative. While your reading the suggested comments from Al be sure to gander over his root pruning suggestions and demos...See MoreBillMN-z-2-3-4
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