Zen, Being the scientist I am, I went on google scholar to find out what I could about the use of Glomus Intradices in tomatoes. I found a publication that you might be interested in. All I could obtain was the abstract. The peer reviewed scientific study was published in the journal Biological Control, vol 5, issue 3. The title of the publication is "Biological Control of Fusarium Crown and Root Rot of Tomato in Florida Using Trichoderma harzianum and Glomus intraradices." I could not get the full text version, but I can post the abstract: "Field experiments were conducted to evaluate commercial formulations of two beneficial fungi, Trichoderma harzianum and Glomus intraradices, for the control of Fusarium crown and root rot of tomato, caused by Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. radicis-lycopersici. Tomato seeds cv. "Sunny" were planted into soil nonamended or amended with the biocontrol agents, the former treatment serving as the control. After 6-7 weeks, plants were transplanted into beds fumigated with methyl bromide-chloropicrin in commercial tomato fields with a previous history of Fusarium crown and root rot. Disease incidence and severity were recorded at harvest maturity. Large and extra-large fruits (greater than or equal to 6.27 cm) also were harvested, counted, and weighed at maturity. Total marketable fruit yield was also determined. Compared to the controls, significant decreases in disease incidence were obtained with treatments of T. harzianum (1993), G. intraradices (1991), and T. harzianum + G. intraradices (both years). Significant decreases in disease severity were obtained with the treatments of T. harzianum (1993), G. intraradices (1991), and T. harzianum + G. intraradices (1993). Yields of large and extra-large fruit or total marketable yield were not significantly different over the controls. These data suggest that commercial biological control agents may be effective in reducing Fusarium crown and root rot and that further evaluation of these agents is justified." From that I take it that if fusarium wilt is a concern for you in tomatoes, that you could find significant resistance by using this Glomus Intradices laced product. Makes me go mmmm.

Odd... I thought I already responded to this post, but I guess not. QUESTION: The soil less seed starter mix has no nutrients. The seedlings are growing their 2nd sets of true leaves...but how long can they stay in the soilless mix? Seedlings initially grow off what is contained in their seed leaves, and so have very minimal requirements from their environment except light, water, and something to hold onto (and initially, even the light requirement is more for hormonal issues than anything else). However, since yours are already to the point where they have two sets of true leaves, yes, they're going to need to be getting nutrients from their environment. Now, you can go about this two ways. One, you could transplant into a more nutrient-rich soil. Or two, you could keep them in the mix and just fertilize. The latter case is actually a simple form of hydroponics called static culture. :) And how long do they have to stay under the lights? I'm in Door County, WI. and will have 6 or more weeks to go before no frost danger. They need to stay under the lights until they go outside. Sorry! And I'm not sure if it's SIZE or WEATHER that will tell me when to move them out. Will the plants even survive if they stay in soil-less, under florescent lights that long? Weather. Don't put your plants outside in weather that they can't handle, and be sure to harden them off first! And yes, plants can grow under lights indefinitely... assuming you give them sufficient space and light! **What do any of you experienced people think of this idea:Instead of just soil less starter to begin...Mix 3/4 sterilized potting soil and 1/4 soil less starting mix. Moisten and use this combination to start seeds? I start my seeds without soilless mix at all. I make a soil out of a mixture of peat and compost, with a small amount of time-release fertilizer, and optionally, depending on the needs of the particular plant, sand, perlite, or vermiculite. A base of peat plus compost is great at retaining nutrients, does pretty well with retaining moisture, and is pretty airy. I'm very pleased with the results I get out of it. The only time I transplant before putting things outside is when I have too many seedlings in a pot.

I've been successfully and relatively cheaply heating my small starter greenhouse with a little electric heater. I have it set on low (750W) and the temperature dial adjusted to keep it about 60-70 degrees inside. Of course, since it's San Diego, the outside temperatures have only gone into the low 40 degree range most nights.

Hi guys didn't read thru all the messages but here's what I use for seed starting. Either Sunshine Plug Mix #5 or Fafard Super Fine Germinating Mix. I use ProMix BX for growing Lilies and other bulbs in crates. Metro Mix 200 is good for stuff that needs bumping up, like Lissies. Like goodscents, put the mix in dry in the cell trays and either bottom soak or dampen with the mist nozzle on a hose sprayer and leave overnight before sowing seed. Reason I haven't been around much, is that I'm busy with the business. It's that time of the year and people have got things to do. Like I just finished planting 1400 Lissies and I'm so way behind in my summer seed sowing schedule that it makes my head spin. Got stuff to do outside and don't have time, (cept real late at night) to sit in front of the pc and surf and socialize. Cheers Kim Billabong Fresh Flower Farm