Ratings of scents & vigor for own root roses and LongAgoRoses
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Ron - On Grafting - Own Roots, Rose Life and Death etc.
Comments (24)Taoseeker, Thanks for the information on the European history with long term use of their most common rootstocks. I find it interesting and very useful and hope for long term good results - more vigorous root growth translating into more resilient bushes. I do remember seeing a number of times R. laxa use mentioned in the hybridizing experiments by the Canadian pioneer prairie hybridizer. One of the Skinners I have is apparently a cross with it and a pimpinefollia - sorry have not taken the time to check if it is Haidee Suzanne Butterball or all. Makes me wonder if that was the influence of their European ancestry, availability or factual superior hardiness - don't know but in 5 years I should. By the way very pleased to see very good cane survival for the first year on my Portland named Marie Jean I got from Lynnette last year when she gave up on it. Melissa, There is a gentleman in British Columbia I met through Lynnette who has made it a mission to collect and save Geschwinds. I need to let him know what I received and get him some cuttings. The two Canadian nurseries that I would be happy to share cuttings (gratis) that graft I have not approached as it gets too close to commercial for me and I would have to be absolutely sure that the roses are out of patent before even contact (most are over 100 years old so I am probably safe). However I sense both of them have absolutely the strictest of QA controls and would do it on their own so as to be sure of providence and disease free stock - if they survive winter and prosper I may contact them to guage their interest ... they both export to the States. Kaylah Hi, I was fortunate my Charles de Mills that I cover and is in the south gardens has 3 foot canes and lots of them ... problem is blooms are usually in short supply and last year I think I got 3. I leave it as it always grows well and takes to protection well. All my other dark gallicas are history except for the many exmaples of Belle d'Crecy I got as delambre - it also seems to survive well if covered ... but too much damage and the blooms are gone. All my cardinal Richelieu departed voluntarily over the years (3). Me I fool around with teas but only in pots and bring them in in October ... got a couple new ones this year. My FMkruger ... is a monster in zone 3 (hahhaha) and I think I must of got the most vigorous clone of this tea via Quebec. Kids you not take a cutting - stick in earth in the house and it takes like in February when I accidentally snapped a branch off ... now I got two with the younger being already at least foot high in 4 months and has gone through one bloom cycle. But the one I really miss is Mrs Schwartz ... almost as reliable as Mlle Franz Krueger (sp) ... forgot to take a cutting and over wintered her in the garage and she and all the other ones died - fortunately had cuttings for 3 of them in the basement to replace them - there as tall in two 365 day a year growing seasons as the originals....See MoreWhat about Long Ago Roses?
Comments (56)I bought 8 bands from LongAgoRoses in May and June of 2021. The best and strongest scents were from Felicia and Leander. Felicia was wafting musk and old rose. Inhaling Leander was like in heaven, the scent gets stronger in cool fall. I was impressed how Leander blooms lasted 6 days in the vase. Wenlock had better scent than Tradescant, and Wenlock is low thorn. Low-thorn roses like Felicia, Leander, Wenlock, and Nahema don't like my dense clay. These are slow to grow in my sticky & dense black clay, or in potting soil made dense with mix-in alfalfa and lime. These prefer light and fluffy soil. If I had to do it all over again, I would fix both potting soil and dense clay with gypsum to make soil lighter and more fluffy for these low-thorn roses. Nahema's blooms are exquisite, but best for loamy and fluffy soil. Below is Nahema's bloom as 1st-year own-root, the petals are thick like butter frosting on a cake, and the smell is a blend of exquisite rose and fruits, simply WOW. I never see blackspots on Nahema (upper branches are thornless). Nahema gets my vote as the most exquisite blooms with the most addictive and enchanting scent (way better than Evelyn's peachy scent). One bloom of Nahema gives me more enjoyment than any of my 140+ fragrant roses. Below Nahema is stingy but it's worth it. I'm tempted to get it again after it died in my zone 5 winter years ago. A friend nearby has Nahema as own-root for over a decade, so perhaps I need to dig deeper for drainage. I don't see blackspots on below Leander either, but my dense clay isn't best for it. Below blooms of Leander knocked me over with its strong scent, it's musk and old rose, pure heaven. The bush is very low thorn: Below yellow Well-being beats Jude the Obscure in the deliciousness of its scent, like a juicy tropical desert. I got so tired of pinching Well Being's buds off for my zone 5 winter-survival .. I gave up, it ended up with 15+ blooms in its 3rd flush as 1st-year own-root:...See MoreWhy own-root roses are healthier than grafted?
Comments (34)Today January 2, I dug up Comte de Chambord, grafted of Multiflora rootstock. Bluegirl had it for a few years in her alkaline Texas, didn't bloom well so she gave to me, since I have more rain. As multiflora-rootstock, Comte bloomed OK in spring but stingy afterwards, while my 2 other Comte as OWN-ROOT bloom profusely with 4 flushes until snow hit. I have Comte-on-multiflora for 2 years. It's so stingy in the summer I moved it next to the rain-spout in July. Its root was the same size as my marigold !! It became even stingier, despite my using the entire bag of coarse sand to make my clay fluffy. So I dug up Comte grafted on multiflora today, Jan 2, and IT WAS THE MOST PATHETIC multiflora rootstock that I had ever seen in my 3 decades of growing roses !! I already posted the study that showed Fortuniana-rootstock produces more blooms than Dr. Huey, and Dr. Huey produces more blooms than multiflora-rootstock. Left side is Comte de Chambord grafted on multiflora rootstock, right side is a snapdragon annual flower root (sown from seed !!). The snapdragon-flower root is actually larger than the multiflora-rootstock. This 4+ year-old Multiflora-rootstock actually SHRANK in my alkaline clay, despite tons of acidic rain. And it REFUSED to give me own-roots at the side like Dr. Huey-rootstock. Picture taken today, Jan 2 at 39 F or 4 C. Re-post info. from Oct. 2016: Comparing Dr. Huey-rootstock, Multiflora-rootstock, and Fortuniana-rootstock from below link, worth reading: http://roses4az-mevrs.org/wp-content/uploads/An-Overview-of-Fortuniana.pdf Here in the Desert Southwest, with our generally alkaline soils and extreme temperatures, we find that r. multiflora has a shorter life span, losing its vigor after five years. While fortuniana bushes had superior root systems, they had difficulty with the harsh & cold English climate. In a study over several years, Dr. McFadden budded two hybrid tea varieties, Queen Elizabeth and Tiffany, onto three different rootstocks. After counting the number of blooms produced over many growing seasons, the varieties budded onto fortuniana produced significantly more blooms. The fortuniana plants produced about THREE TIMES the number of blooms as those on multiflora and TWICE as many as on Dr. Huey. Additional benefits of Fortuniana include increased resistance to gall, stem dieback, and root disease, such as Phytophtora and Pythium. Bushes planted over 40 years ago in Florida are still thriving. On this rootstock, plants are heavier feeders, as they have five times the feeder roots of more common varieties." http://roses4az-mevrs.org/wp-content/uploads/An-Overview-of-Fortuniana.pdf...See MoreLong Ago Roses...
Comments (13)umm, I am confused by RVRs website. I am thinking that there is no way, a baby band can be in a 5 gallon or 2 gallon pot. That's more like a regular young own-root, similar to what Roses Unlimited sells. In my humble opinion, it is very difficult for me to imagine getting heavy top growth from true actual baby bands. Baby bands stay very delicate in proportion to their size because they've been raised straight from cuttings and are less than a year old. An older baby band may be larger because it sat around unbought, but I would say it's pretty rare to get a top heavy baby band, in my humble opinion? Or am I just confused? But I do want to stress that Linda at Long Ago Roses does not have a greenhouse to coddle her bands. A weak band with weak roots is not going to survive winter. And no puny weak root system is going to be able to support two basal canes like my Viking Queen band. So do I have confidence in a great root system with my baby bands? ABSOLUTELY! You are right in that size of leaves and blooms never indicate a band's health, but what does give a sign is how fast does this band send up brand new growth and what is the texture and coloration of that new growth. All my baby bands leaves were in direct proportion to the girth of their canes so that indicates that the bands were not over-fertilized and manipulated into sending premature growth. In other words they are genuinely healthy bands with a good root system. Another thing you might consider is that baby bands do better pre-potted or cushioned with an "insulation" of potting mix because the potting mix is similar to the soil used in a nursery and it is easier for the roots to push through the potting mix as opposed to clumpy native soils. That way the roots have time to gradually adjust as rain and earthworms gradually seep in the native soil into the potting soil. Plus when the roots are strong and vital they will naturally push their own roots outwards into the native soil when they are good and ready. Sometimes native soils can be too harsh for certain baby bands and baby perennials. I've never lost a baby band from initiating them into my garden, but I did lose weak baby perennials (1/2"-2" in size from American Meadows) when I tried to plant them directly into my native soil without using potting mix as a buffer. All baby perennials that were insulated survived. My other perennial company Bluestone Meadows had very healthy root systems and were much larger, so I didn't need to worry about cushioning them with potting mix, but the ones that I did decide to "pamper" just took off like crazy, whereas the non-cushioned ones took longer to establish themselves....See Morestrawchicago z5
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2 years agolast modified: 2 years agonoseometer...(7A, SZ10, Albuquerque)
2 years agostrawchicago z5 thanked noseometer...(7A, SZ10, Albuquerque)strawchicago z5
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2 years agolast modified: 2 years agonoseometer...(7A, SZ10, Albuquerque)
2 years agostrawchicago z5 thanked noseometer...(7A, SZ10, Albuquerque)
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