After considering the responses, I am leaning towards either a pure white or a solid antique white (no artificial darkening/shadowing in the crevices). The photo posted of the glazed kitchen is gorgeous, but I am too chicken I think given the cost of cabinets. Regarding the rest of the kitchen, most likely I will go with an oak hardwood floor (to match the rest of the house it will be stained a golden & pecan color), stainless steel appliances, and I would like to keep the main color scheme relatively neutral. Most likely a travertine looking backsplash and beige to medium brown paint colors. I already posted a link to the cabinet door so you can see the style which is traditional-transitional, full overlay. The ends of the cabinets will be done in beadboard, as will the sides of a small center island. I was planning to do beadboard/wainscotting all the way around the breakfast/eating area to continue with that idea. The house is a 1942 Spanish style in Southern California, one of those Hacienda looking style homes, although it is kind of transitional since 1942 is getting out of that era. The link below shows an antique white kitchen that has many elements of white mine would probably look like if I did antique white. http://www.kitchen-design-ideas.org/pictures-of-kitchens-traditional-antique-white-kit002.html#axzz1VUakya4D On the other hand, I think pure white cabinets could also work: http://www.kitchen-design-ideas.org/pictures-of-kitchens-traditional-white-kit004.html#axzz1VUakya4D My main concern is about how antique white vs pure white cabinets age/wear over time, which is why I was originally trying to stay away from talking about the rest of the kitchen. I worry the antique white will start to look dingy if they pick up dirt over time. I want a white kitchen in some way shape or form, I just want to pick the right shade of white that I will be happy with over time. Thanks for everyone's help. Can someone please tell me how to set up my profile to be notified when someone responds to my thread? I looked in the settings and I'm not seeing it. THanks, MissLivvy

I HAVE THE SOLUTION! NO NEED TO BUY A NEW FAUCET OR END. I stumbled across this (and your thumbs down thread) when trying to figure out why my ikea pull out kitchen faucet had such poor flow. It wasn't even enough to trigger the tankless water heater. I went to Ikea and while there brought it up with a kitchen specialist who denied all knowledge of a problem or that a flow restrictor existed. I said that's impossible as FR's are legally required in my state. But it was the way she denied all knowledge that got me thinking there's something more to this, and VOILA! I solved it. Here's HOW TO REMOVE BOTH (YES, THERE'S TWO!) FLOW RESTRICTORS IN AN IKEA FACUET. 1, On the pull out spout you'll see indents for a wrench, let's call this part the hose coupler. Now It's the actually the larger cylindrical spout part below it that you need to get off, so grip tight and unscrew it away from the house coupling. 2, once you have the spout end free. you'll notice that it's a metal cover with a black plastic part inside. Push downwards gently on the screw thread and the plastic barrel will come out of the housing. It's this part that aerates the water and has the flow restrictors. At the bottom of this barrel, you'll see the grey part with little teeth around the edge (they look like battlements on a castle). If you still have the green key that came with the faucet I think this should unscrew it. I lost mine so instead unscrewed this grey part with a good quality flat head screwdriver, pushing against one of the teeth in a counter clockwise pressure. Be careful not to cut the tooth as you push it. If you won't budge, move on to another tooth and try again. Don't use a very sharp screwdriver - I used the flat wide one in a Swiss Army Knife and it was perfect. They grey part will unscrew and on top of it, you'll see a little white mech and underneath that, something green. That little white mesh is a cap that sits inside (not on top) of the white ring housing. Pry it out with a little knife, it'll pop right out and inside there is FR number one - a little green devil, that sucks the pressure from your beloved faucet. Pull it out and put the little white mesh cap on. Now look up that plastic barrel - you'll see theres a white/beige contraption with a spring. Yoo can either push up from below to pop this out with something like a pencil. or get that flat screw driver again, and from the top, angle it under the lip of this little contraption and while pulling up, turn it in your hand.It's only held in place with a rubber O ring so should slide out. This little contraption is a pressure regulator and will also affect flow. 3, Now, screw the grey part back in, and then slide the metal cylinder cover over the barrel and then screw the spout back in to the hose coupler. DONE. You know have virtually full flow back. It will be at the price of that aerating feature, but I just want as much pressure as possible. I did not try putting the pressure regulator back in, but someone else out there may want to try. I hope this helps and please feel free to comment with any questions If you need.

Do you want to see stacks of damask napkins?...I even have some in the freezer....awaiting their turn on the ironing board! Huge linen table cloths? There are fine linens being made today, you won't find them on Amazon, but those who will pay for them can find them. What do you suppose the Queen uses on her breakfast tray? and there were coarser linens, spun on a flax wheel and woven at home....I have a sampler dated 1823 on a very coarse linen base. It's just that for the past 15 or so years that fairly coarse linen has been popular....and it will survive boiling just fine, but the color may not!

Just an update: Thank you all for your wonderful suggestions and help thus far! As some of you have suggested we are looking into UCL lighting options, and will be contacting a lighting specialist to add additional lights to the kitchen. The fixtures we currently have will also be replaced. In the mean time, we've begun prepping the room for paint. We'll at least get the walls primed until we can decide on a color. Someone asked early about the soffit, and we got curious and cut a small section out to take a peek. The soffit is concealing wiring and plumbing so that will stay as is. Yes, all the cabinets are green. It's not a color that we enjoy so they will be repainted. I'd like to paint the perimeter cabinets some shade of cream/white and paint the island an accent color. Another issue we've discovered in our cabinet doors are not solid wood, they appear to be some kind of particle board or MDF. In the photos below you'll see where damage has occurred to the bottom of the door (sorry I couldn't get the photo oriented correctly). Should we look into replacing the doors, can you buy cabinet doors without replacing all the boxes?