"...Not everything needs to be matchy-matchy..." No, of course not. And if folks will read my comments, I didn't suggest "matching". What I suggested was to get light fixtures with "similar" characteristics--not matching. The OP's suggested foyer fixture has "bling" sides and an opaque base. The exterior form is hard edged. Of course, everyone is free to choose whatever light fixtures they please. But the OP asked if the two fixtures "coordinate". The answer is no. They contrast, not coordinate. Just my mileage since the OP asked. YMMV! :-)

Good stuff from Beverly above. If you're a visual person (like me) you can also try the balloon trick. Blow up some balloons to be the same size as the lights (as close as possible.) Or you could mock something up with cardboard which would work well since your lights are rectangular (and very cool by the way.) Then hang your mockups on strings from the ceiling. You can play with positioning and length of string to see what you think. Stand by them to check your sight lines when working at the counter, and check them from further away to see how they look. I did this when I replaced a light in my kitchen with a light that has 3 separate globes that can be hung at different heights. I moved my table under the mocked up "light", sat the kids down for dinner, and fiddled around with the strings until I was happy with the heights of the balloons compared to the table. Then I kept the mockup hung nearby for the electrician to follow as a guide.

"The custom cabinet company has been to the job and has approved all the distances between the cabinets, ovens and refrigerator. " Most cabinetmakers, custom or otherwise, don't really understand aisle clearances, seating overhangs, etc. Their focus is on the construction of the cabinets. It's the designer's responsibility to ensure a functional space is designed. Yes, many cabinet salespeople call themselves "designers", but they aren't. When I say a "designer", I mean a KITCHEN designer educated in good design practices. E.g., what are the actual aisle widths b/w the items that stick out into the aisles the farthest -- e.g., appliance handles, counter overhangs, etc.? That's your true aisle width, not cabinet-to-cabinet like so many cabinet salespeople show.

I found many answers to this when looking, but most were less than clear to me. I wish I could remember the source for this, but I copied and pasted and it makes wonderful sense. Lighting Above a Kitchen Island Pendants and mini pendants are commonly used to provide ambient and task lighting over a kitchen island or work surface. Make sure to account for equal space around each pendant. Use this formula to determine how much: Measure the length of the island/table in inches. Example: 60" wide Determine how many pendants you want and the diameter of each. Add them up for a combined diameter. Example: 3 pendants with an 8" diameter. Combined diameter = 24" Subtract the combined diameter from the length of the island. Example: 60" - 24"= 36" Add 1 to the number of pendants. This accounts for the space between each pendant and the ends of the island. Example: Since we started with 3 pendants, we’ll tick this number up to 4. Divide your subtracted value by the number of pendants. Example: 36" ÷ 4 = 9". You’ll want to aim for 9" of space in between each pendant.