A little more explanation leading up to a lighting suggestion after reviewing your provided layout: In general concept, when you place recessed-style ceiling lighting at the counter edge, you are providing task lighting on your counter workspace as well as simultaneous throw onto the floor adjacent to the cabinet. So the fixture is providing general ambient lighting for the room, but since the kitchen functions require more footcandles, these ceiling lights provide the high lumens needed for task lighting and you exploit those. Your upper and lower cabinet interiors/drawers will also be well-lit, without the shadow caused by the person standing there. With most lumenaires, because of it's ~12" placement away from the upper cabinet you will get a small hotspot or visual cone on the door, but that is a tradeoff to solving the task lighting with a catch-all solution. Because undercabinet lighting is close to the surface (both counter and backsplash) and it's cone of throw is "fenced in," a fixture style with lower lumens is chosen rendering it more of a "supplemental" lighting to the task lighting of the ceiling fixtures. But, you cannot strictly define it as only task lighting because of the low lumens, the sometimes haphazardness of upper cabinets to your work surface, and it's exploitation for accent lighting and layering in concept. You could raise the lumens to focus on task lighting and limit ceiling fixtures to ambient, however you are sometimes left with a poor solution where you can't balance the lighting between ambient, task, and accent, nor provide task lighting where you need it, illustrated in this example: Of course, these principles are general solutions to what you will be presented with in most kitchens. That is, using fixtures that are efficient in cost, installation, and aesthetics, thus a lumenaire that can cover a combination of ambient, task, and accent lighting to some degree. If your project's characteristics have attributes that need a little adjustment in the strict definition of which fixtures provide which lighting methods, then that is completely acceptable. You would see this often with high-end kitchens, specific design aesthetics, prominent circulation, some galley kitchens, or non-mainstream cabinet layouts. _____________________ Looking at your specific perspective drawing, you have an entirety of 24" deep upper cabinets and very minimal wall counter space. So if your kitchen genre calls for an efficient solution to lighting, then I would suggest 3" recessed cans which can be spaced closer to each other and have no choice but to be placed within the aisles. However, the primary purpose of these is to provide task light within the upper and lower cabinets, so they would not be centered over walkways in a grid to light up your path, but placed appropriately for a cabinet/set of cabinets. Then with the 3 enclosed wall counter spaces, where the range (which the hood will probably have it's own spots) and beverage appear to have the uppers too high to have accent lighting double as supplemental counter task lighting, utilizing under cabinet 2" ("puck style" if need be) fixtures directed at the counter. As far as the island and pendants, it may be too tight of a width of room, too much vertical orientation with the tall cabinets and mostly skinny-width doors, in what looks like a 9' ceiling, and no location where you would get a broad, setback, visual perspective to appreciate the proportion of any pendants, all of which might render the pendants "invisible" but at the same time cluttering the visual of the cabinet faces. And along with your non-symmetrical sink placement and only 3.5' counter width, it may be best to only have recessed lights. But, it just depends on the pendant fixture chosen, how transparent and how well it can provide task lighting, and your cabinet finishes/styles. Along the beverage wall I would definitely place uplighting to the ceiling and make sure the lumens balance with the counter lighting below. If your aesthetic and budget is at a higher level, say to match the rest of house or tigerwood cabinets, then another route is for 2" ceiling fixtures (which would have more design-oriented lumenaire selections) and they would light the walkways with general ambient light, but the interior of cabinets would need a light for each shelf.

What kind of bulb is that ? It looks like Edison type light which BTW IMO is horrible everywhere and for sure to light an island . Post a pic in a comment here of your kitchen that is how you get help. I like the looks of the fixture but IMO an LED 4000K bulb is a must. But I need to see your space .

The drawing shows a single pendant fixture over the island. That pendant is just a ceiling mounted fixture, so there are many choices of size and number of lamps (say, "sockets"). For scale and openness from two directions in the Kitchen, you probaby want a fixture with more than a single lamp, or go to (2) pendant fixtures. Since this island is also your prep space, the type of fixture you choose will also dictate how successful task lighting on this counter is performed. _________________________ Unfortunately, the electrical drawing uses a symbol showing all the ceiling fixtures as ceiling mounted. I would assume by placement that they are actually recessed lights. And the "dot" used as a hashmark on the dimension lines adds to the confusion as well as other drawing methods chosen. The ceiling lighting in the Kitchen appears to be layed out purely by 2-D paper aesthetics and not function. The "4 corner" lights are lighting up the floor instead of the counters. Yes, you have UCLs, but you can see they do not cover all the counter surfaces, the insides of lower and upper cabinets, and the "4 corners" will create shadows from humans at the counter and lower cabinets, so UCL's only supplement counter task lighting. Depending on your contractor, the electrical plan produced by an architect can be beneficial or can be used to work against you. Most residential architects, without using consulants or not having any field construction experience, are not experts in MEP coordination issues, current NEC code, or if they have not been exposed to commercial projects they would probably have little knowledge of lighting and HVAC. It is not a knock on your particular architect, it is the norm, but I say all this because there could be some issues with this electrical plan. The dimensional placement is good to get the design ideals you want. However, if not fully coordinated with all information, some issues can arise. For instance, the Pantry light has "S" which I believe to be "semi-flush," centered on the ceiling, but are there cabinets all the way to ceiling? If you only use the left door, how do you get to the switch? Another example, in what I think is the Dining Room, the Pendant ("P") is centered over the opening to Kitchen, but the island or Kitchen window is not in line, and is your dining table centered on this opening, or would doing so cause circulation problems next to the buffet nook? Also the Kitchen outlets indicated fall short of NEC requirements. If the contractor used this drawing as just a general guide, then they may have accounted for additional outlets in their pricing, or since there is probably a general note saying the contractor must adhere to code, they will fill in the blanks and make some decisions on their own. That is the rub, will there be a charge later for extras, and do the "decisions on their own" go against the intent of design. For example, counter outlets max 24" reach. The range outlet may be stuck in your backsplash instead of hidden down low behind the range. The hood J-box needs an exact placement for the style of hood. The DW requirements for a cord have recently changed, as have island power. On small jobs typically the architect is done after drawings, so it is up to the sophistication of the G.C. or the owner to coordinate info to keep with the design intent and prevent redo's and extra costs.

this is a pretty traditional looking fixture suitable for Island and/or dining table it is from Wayfair.com Makson pendant ... just an observation. Center your area rug on the window and (fill that space with the rug) put the chaise/sectional at the edge of the rug.